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#1
October 20th 2003, 18:13
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Camber adjustment on IRS...
I discovered the neatest thing yesterday. I had already heard on here that if you could rotate your front control arm mount, you could take away some of the negative camber ( /o\ ) from lowering. Well my bus has the bolt on conversion so I can rotate the mount... and by-golly it works! I can even change it for different ride heights so its correct however low I go!
The only thing I noticed, and this is without everything in place, just eyeballing, it seemed to be trying to create a little extra toe-in as I rotated the mount. Its not a big problem as I can adjust that out and it may have just been fooling the eye.
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No current VW projects 54 Chevy wagon LS2 AWD 56 Chevy Panel "Lost Cause" VKG Bastage child 
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#2
October 24th 2003, 12:57
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Get it setup properly on a 4 wheel alignment.
When you change the camber in this way you change the toe. When you change the toe using the 3 bolts from the arm to the springplate you change the camber. The shop I went to took a couple of hours to get it spot on to what I wanted (-2deg camber and 0 toe) Paul
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#4
October 24th 2003, 19:52
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You talking to me or Panelfantastic???
I wanted a bit more than that, but it is a bus though.... Couldn't get anywhere near the front camber I wanted (ended up with -30mins) and have very little caster. Only way to solve it is similar to a narrowed beam, but in fact only taking off a bit of the top tube and then pushing the bottom tube forward. Or bend the arms - not too happy about that to be honest for a road car. Paul
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#5
October 24th 2003, 20:16
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I was refering to your second to last post, any tracking specs on modified VW's. I don't feel straight ahead is always the way forward. What happens on a corner is the only way onward. Tweaking is everything. My experience of aligning Split vans is Zero. I have Balco 4wheel laser align' and use it daily. I respect your post with specific values. If everybody with everykind of modified VW shared/knew/ knew how to measure and quantify their specs. For minimum tyre wear in a straight line or for serious performance 'Dub compensation for bad Ackermann geometry?
 Silly me You got T2 that go very fast 'straight line. And you just got big T4 flywheel for monster Bus. Matt
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'79 Karmann, Nrburgring or bust... Last edited by MattKab; October 24th 2003 at 20:42.
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#6
October 25th 2003, 04:54
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I want to go round corners too! I think my bus handles better than any other split bus I have driven, and so does everyone else who has driven it. Though thats because it has a good steering box, all new steering components and a Berg shifter - peoples view of handling tends to be swayed by the whole driving experience.
A friend who used to build Beetle cup cars said to use straight ahead on the back as it makes the handling more neutral and more forgiving. For next year I will have another play as I have to take my beam off to weld on the servo mount, its just playing around with settings costs lots if you don't have the alignment stuff. What settings would you try then? My friend reckoned I wanted at least 3 degrees camber on the rear and 2 degrees on the front. No way of getting 2 on the front though. Its interesting you say about the straight ahead, most places that do split bus conversions (whether I agree with their methods and working practices is another thread) all setup the buses to be straight up and straight ahead. Except one "respected" guy who from the evidence I have seen leaves the back as it falls - visually both wheels have totally different camber and point in different directions. What do you think about bending arms? Cheers Paul
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