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#1
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Realistic T4 build. Is it possible?
Okay, so I want a T4 for my project. I'd love to have one of Jake's, but it's not really an option. I'd like to spend around 2k max. So here's what I'm thinking:
Used T4 1.8L from German Auto Dismantlers or such Dual 40's or 44's, whichever best suit the engine 911 cooling (while saving for a DTM) Pretty much stock internals I've read where the stock 1.8 has 70-80 HP (don't remember exactly). I'm good with that. I'm not building a street killer, just a sweet driver. I want to do 85 on the interstate, but I'm not going to be street racing ricers. I want the potential to go bigger later, but want good stuff while I'm waiting. Okay, so what I want to know is (and please don't flame me if it's been asked before somewhere): 1. Is there a drastic difference other than price in the 1.8's and 2.0's. I know there is a slight HP increase, but other than that? 2. What would be the drawbacks to starting with a 1.8 from a bus? Are just the heads different, or would I lay out a ton of cash on other parts in the conversion? In other words, is it best to start with the Porsche engine or does it matter? 3. If I can find one of these engines locally, what should I want with it? Just the longblock? Intake too? Exhaust? 4. What are the limits of the 1.8? Max HP numbers I could squeeze without swapping jugs etc... (or with just bolt ons) 5. Finally, what kind of performance can I expect out of the stock tranny? I've read on other forums that when you get more from the engine power wise, the tranny performs just fine for street use. True? Should I look at a Freeway flyer? Once again, I know most of these are newbie FAQ's, but most of the threads I've read are concerned with major HP or just the 2.0. That's not my goal. So if you wouldn't mind, I'd appreciate it. BTW- If you guys need some one to build a FAQ's I'd be happy. ![]() |
#2
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Currently we are offering a 1911cc kit that is VERY affordable..
2800 bucks for the whole longblock kit, including heads..
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Jake Raby |
#3
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Thanks Jake. I meant no insult or anything.
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#4
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+build a 1911 like Jakes Kit.
use 96mm pistons, they are cheaper then 94's. should end up with a 100hp
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WinterJam 2010: Vdub, Surf, Skate & Musis Fest WinterJam 2010 'I drive way to fast to worry about cholesterol!' '67 Sunroof Notchback * '68 FI Squareback |
#5
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I would save up the extra $800 and do one of Jakes kits. A proven combo is hard to beat and having someone like Jake to eye everything before it goes together is a big plus. :agree:
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NO_H2O 72 1302 Smack Black GL 73 Bus (2L CIS Powered) 66 Beetle, 73 Standard Beetle 72 Pinzgauer 710M Volksport Kafer Gruppe |
#6
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Jake,
Since you mentioned the kit, how much for the turnkey 1911? Nothing fancy, just reliable. With and without DTM if you can. I'll need the ammunition just in the off chance I can convince my wife to let me buy one. ![]() Thanks, Don |
#7
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Quote:
your not getting everything you need for $2800, your still without DTM, Carbs and Exhaust.
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WinterJam 2010: Vdub, Surf, Skate & Musis Fest WinterJam 2010 'I drive way to fast to worry about cholesterol!' '67 Sunroof Notchback * '68 FI Squareback |
#8
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I just got a 1.7 litre Bus core engine if you need a starting point. It's just a longblock, and it's definately a core, as it won't turn over.
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Yetibone '71 1302S 1.8 '73 1303S 2.3 '83 928S 4.7 Last edited by yetibone; October 4th 2004 at 19:42. |
#9
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Thanks Yeti, I've got one, and an option on another (1.7 and 2.0 respectively). No disrespect to any of the others that replied, but I'm going to rebuild it myself. I've built several other engines, and with manual and video I'm sure I can do it. I will probably get advice on cams etc though. I'm also going to document the build so if anyone else wants to go the same route in building a T4, the info will be there.
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#10
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plan on $500 for exhaust. DTM and 911 cooling will come out about the same but you will have better cooling with the DTM and a reversible install.
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#11
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Yes, unfortunately the exhaust will be the high cost item of this budget. For cooling I'll most likely go Cali to keep cost down (I've read all of the benefits and drawback of every system, and I think this is appropriate for this application. If the DTM was only $350 or so, then it would be obvious, but it isn't.) I'll also have to set aside some cash for head rebuild and carbs. This isn't going to be a track car, just a daily driver, so I'm trying to go as inexpensively as possible. My goal for this engine is under $2k. I understand I won't be getting the top of the line stuff for that cost, but that's not the point. When I do build a hi-po T4 (and I will...) then cost will not be a concern.
Right now, I just want to make the swap. I've been looking at beefing the T1 1600, but it just doesn't make sense if I can build an 80hp stock T4. I think that has been proven. Once I get this one going, I'll start work on planning the engine for the track car. BTW..Carb suggestions? |
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