#1
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Considered it Plumbed-pics
I just finished plumbing the cooling system today. Check it out. I was skeptical at first but am pretty pumped how it turned out.
Yah, everything will be a lot cleaner after it gets painted. And I can't seem to get those pesky spots off the camera lens...
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1969 VW Bus 2.2L suby - Driving Daily 1302 EJ20 turbo |
#2
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More joins than I would prefer but looks like you got some neat routing..
One other observation: you should make up some supports for the rear long sections, once filled with the additional weight of coolant they are going to bounce around a lot when driving if left unsupported like that. Rich
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http://www.ricola.co.uk |
#3
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[QUOTE=Eatoniashoprat;61522]I just finished plumbing the cooling system today. Check it out. I was skeptical at first but am pretty pumped how it turned out.
QUOTE] Hey Eastoniaoprat, not bad A couple of things I’d like to point out are 1- I agree with Rich you need to support your rear cooling lines, if fact ensure all your lines are supported. 2- I think there are too many joins -remember every join is a failure point 3- Where you have bent your piping to form 90 deg bends and the piping has crushed like in some of the picture you have reduced the internal diameter of the pipe by the size of the crimp/crease then the same amount again as the water (or air) forms little turbulent spots were the flow stalls the size of this stalled flow is about the same size as the crease that’s caused it. I have a few suggestions related to the above points, feel free to use them or tell me to jam them up my ass. 1- You have used hose clips for mounting, change to exhaust clamps, this is more secure and allows a air gap between the pan and pipes helps stops the transfer of heat through the pan. 2- Wherever there is a join use two hose clips, ensure the end of each pipe has a croxs/ridge on the end of it. Only use good hose clips like wurth brand, use s/steel ones that don’t have the holes/slots cut through the band for the worm/screws to work in but are stamped with the ridges for the worm/screws to work on. 3- Replace the bend pipe with moulded rubber hoses, were ever you can. But hey I have bean known to spout **** before and I have bean wrong, just ask my wife. S
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Scott 1971 2.5L Subaru powered 1302s http://vw1302rsi.multiply.com/ |
#4
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Hi
When I had my 1302 I ran the coolant pipes down the middle like you did, I found that I grounded them a few times. Later on I made new ones which followed the line heater chaneel bolts and this gave me much better clearance. I agree about the joins but soemtimes thats all, you have avaible. Im not a fan of ribbed hoses either, they tend to fail on the rib. Below my 1302 pipes. Steve
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STI powered 1303 in the works. |
#5
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Thanks for the comments guys, I appreciate them.
When I put everything back together after paint I will make some mounts for the rear sections. Just as they are they move around a lot. Also when it goes back together I'll go with some better hose clamps and make some grooves in the pipes at all the connections. There is actually a small gap between the pipes and the pan. I welded small tabs to the pan to hold the clamps. I was going to use some sort of exhaust clamp but I wanted to keep them as close to the pan as a I could (without touching of course). I do have some of the original subaru hose clamps that I might try for hanging the pipes since they are very strong and the clamping force comes from a bolt tightening into a nut. I couldn't see those breaking. As for using rubber elbows, I was going to go this route but I figured the more metal I used the better it would help cool the coolant. Also I would think coolant would flow a lot smoother through metal than rubber, although that might be counter-acted but the extra joints. The bends are preformed steel 90's from canadian tire (exhaust pipe). Even though they are crimped their ID is greater than the aluminum pipe. With the large ID and the flow I imagine will be turbulent already I figured they wouldn't impede the flow. I don't mean to go off topic too much but SteveC what headers are those? Thanks for the input.. anything else?
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1969 VW Bus 2.2L suby - Driving Daily 1302 EJ20 turbo Last edited by Eatoniashoprat; September 25th 2007 at 14:05. |
#6
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Hi
That car a had a turbo 2.1 WBX in it, I ran a 3 inch pipe off the turbo, under the diff then into a Hooker headers Aero chamber muffler. Steve
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STI powered 1303 in the works. |
#7
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Steve do you have more pictures off your exhaust
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