#1
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Turbo Type 1? Which base engine?
I've recently been thinking to the posibility of a Turbo type 1. I think that would be way fun. And work well.
What makes a good starting point. I was looking at shop talk forums and people are running stock all the way to 2217! I read somewhere that turbos like shorter strokes (or was it longer strokes I don't remember). I'm interested in making power everywhere! So a smaller turbo may be good, that way I could make boost waaaay low. I do NOT want to exceed the 200HP mark in any way shape or forum. I dont want to spend thousands and thousands and thousands of dollars on a Super Tranny for my Super Beetle. Although I do recognise that a perf. tranny is required/recomended. This is a steet driven car, want gobs of low end torue and to pull like a scaled rabbit to *whatever deemed sane/built for per $ spent* rpm. The car is 0034% Drag, 20% Road Race/Twisty Canyon road, 80% Street. I'm willing to go and check out the engine every week or two. (Valves, keep an eye on it..) I don't want to worry about taking long trips in it (obviously, I would check it first). Nor do I want to pull it every week. How do I deal with heat built up by a turbo engine? Ovbiously the engine is WAY more efficient but that still creates a little more heat? |
#2
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1915 is a common choice.
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NO_H2O 72 1302 Smack Black GL 73 Bus (2L CIS Powered) 66 Beetle, 73 Standard Beetle 72 Pinzgauer 710M Volksport Kafer Gruppe |
#3
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I'm also wondering about these engines being able to cruse maximum 80-90 mph all day. And be on and off power all day should I be driving a nice twisty road, or on a race cource. All without overheating.
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#4
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as nice as a 1915 sounds, wouldnt it be better if it were a stroker to add more low end torque to make up for the turbo lag?
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WinterJam 2010: Vdub, Surf, Skate & Musis Fest WinterJam 2010 'I drive way to fast to worry about cholesterol!' '67 Sunroof Notchback * '68 FI Squareback |
#5
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I think the logic with short stroke is the turbo will spool up quicker. Quicker spool up= less lag. The quicker the rpm's the more exhaust to the turbo. I wonder how a 1.8L with it's 93mm bore and 66mm stroke would do as a turbo engine.
I think a stroker turbo would work too. There would be more bottom end but it take a little more time to spool up the turbo. On a side note the exotic turbos with stuff like bearings and Ti spools have less lag. Nick |
#6
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The deal is alittle sweetned as the car I am looking to get can come with a core longblock type 4 2.0L from a late bus with Webber 44 carbs and manifolds. All would have to be rebuilt. Uh oh, there's been some question as to weather or not it's two liter. The paper he copied from some VW book in the 80s sais it's a 2 Liter, but on a great type 4 website sais it's a 1.8!?
Where can I find parts to rebuild a type 4? and build it for boost, or build it for NA HP. IE Cylinders, Perf cams, exhausts that will work on beetle, cooling for it, alts, cranks, rods, rockers, headwork...etc. Can I use any type 1 stuff? Last edited by Mysticle31; July 11th 2004 at 03:15. |
#7
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NO_H2O 72 1302 Smack Black GL 73 Bus (2L CIS Powered) 66 Beetle, 73 Standard Beetle 72 Pinzgauer 710M Volksport Kafer Gruppe |
#8
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I've been there and spoken with him. I'm trying to figure out other options instead of swallowing a 7K (not incuding cooling..) price tag!
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#9
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For that 7K you will get the best proven combo you can buy. You can also buy engines in kit form, all clearancing and machine work is done and the combo is proven. But I don't think he does a turbo kit. The price may seem high untill you start adding up what is going into it and start trying to source them for yourself.
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NO_H2O 72 1302 Smack Black GL 73 Bus (2L CIS Powered) 66 Beetle, 73 Standard Beetle 72 Pinzgauer 710M Volksport Kafer Gruppe |
#10
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I don't doubt it's a great kit! Everyone loves it!. And if I did one of those I woudn't want or need a turbo. My *dream* kit would be his 2316 with some nickies for long living. Wowsers.. or if I REALLY win the lotery, or go deeeep in debt (I don't go in debt for anything). His 2563 would no doubt kill me. (literally too..)
Lets say I had a long block (say his) What do I need to make it work? Clutch Flywheel? Cooling Carbs Manifolds Exhaust oil pumps? fuel pimp? What else? |
#11
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You can scratch the oil pump off, it's part of the long block. Add ignition, and charging.
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#12
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Read the guys topic on Shop Talk Forums about his 1915 turbo that he has been building. I had been strongly considering a turbo type1 but that topic turned me away. Seems like there was way too many variables.
I have 1776 cc type 1 engine with dual carbs. Very mild, nothing special at all! If I were too add up all of the total costs that have gone in to the engine including repairs, etc., it would far exceed the cost of a 2270 from Aircooled Technology. That makes me insane!! I just believe his engines, compared to anything else and the costs that come with them, will pay for themselves.
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1972 1302 1974 1303 |
#13
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You added up the cost and it costd 5000 dollers (that's jakes kit price for a long block. No cooling, induction, ignition, exhaust) to 7000 (complete, add cooling and exhaust. I think..) For a 1776? I thought 1776's were the cheapest non stock block engines you could build.
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#14
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All the maintenance costs that would be avoided with a type 4, gas mileage, things of that nature. Nickel and dime, valve adjustments. I'm talkin since I bought the car. Three rebuilds, one after a fire, another after a nut falling down my carb throat, the third two weeks after the second due to a cracked case, new points, ignition, carb rebuild after warping, the cost of the new case. . .
On top of this, I don't plan on getting 80k+ miles from this engine like a would 2270 "C" engine. Its not balanced, blueprinted, dyno tested, crygenically enhanced. It runs hotter, has half the half the power. Awhile back I decided I would put no more money into the engine, for it seemed to be a waste unless it was towards a type 4. Now I'm getting depressed...
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1972 1302 1974 1303 |
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