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My First Ever Car Build. German Look Bug
Hey guys
So this is going to be my first full car build, I have done bits and bobs but never undergone a full car. This is not going to be as mad or as wild as some of the builds on here but I am putting everything I can into her while on a HUGE learning curve! The plan is to have a nice comfortable street car that I can take to the track whenever I like, I have a few things to work out yet like heating etc (thinking of eberspacher). I am trying to create a look that is very functional and am trying to add as little 'rice' parts as possible and I am only adding parts that should serve a purpose" I have many plans which will be changing as I go along but without further a due I shall put up my pictures in order of what I have done. I have been on this now for about 6 months Prior to me posting these so a lot of pics in the first and will update as I go. Just a quick test of colours Left is new right is old Paint stripping all by hand |
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looks awesome man. keep up the good work. and keep the update pics coming. where did you source that spoiler? ive pondered getting one myself of that style.
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I found the spoiler on eBay, it has now been sent away to be moulded in and glassed into a bootlid so it should look like a one peice unit! Fingers crossed. The glassing was one of the few things I did not want to try myself, Maybe small parts but not something of this scale as my first try. Craig |
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Great stuff. It's recommended you stiffen up the pan if you plan on doing a few track days and while you have the car torn all apart. I wish I had done this with my 1303. The inside wheel would always lift exiting out of a hard turn and stepping on the gas.
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...n%20stiffening http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=123860
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'66 Bus(11-window, CLK rims, disk brakes, IRS, bags, hydr. clutch, Super-1600 w/injection) |
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I have a few things being done/bought already to help, I have a rollcage which is going in, that should help increase rigidity (although its only a 4 point it should still help_ I have a front Strut brace and a rear 4 point strut brace, this should reduce flex and hopefully increase handling characteristics. Craig |
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welcome to the forum
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gee dub |
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looks an Sounds like a Sweet build can't wait to See more.. Welcome too..
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74 Std. GL 08 Vw rabbit 18 WR250R 07 Chevy 3500 Dually |
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Great work! I'm always amazed at what our British and European mates can do in a cold single-car garage!
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aka VWCOOL '56 Cal Oval with IRS and a 1916 '68 Country Buggy. '76 fuel injected Cabriolet ..and a good ol' Aussie V8 |
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Despite rumours to the contrary, Beetles (especially later ones) have impressively stiff bodies; it's even better with stich-welding of all seams and/or a six-point cage tagged to the A and B pillars and the rear wheelhouses inboard of the rear damper towers. The suspension benefits from 26mm or larger torsion bars in the rear... the reduction in squat will help keep the inside front wheel on the ground
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aka VWCOOL '56 Cal Oval with IRS and a 1916 '68 Country Buggy. '76 fuel injected Cabriolet ..and a good ol' Aussie V8 Last edited by Oval; February 8th 2016 at 06:55. |
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Thanks Oval. I now hav a little more done on the back end but no pictures just yet, i have also stuck another coat of primer, she is getting there slowly but surely
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My car was very neutral. I had a half roll cage (4 point), rear sway bar, and stiffened up the rear frame horn section in my 1303 (below in blue), but I still wish I had tied the suspension and made the car a bit stiffer front to rear (strut towers to rear torsion housing). I sold the car a couple of years ago. These are 40+ year old cars and do flex when you push them hard. I suggested that before Craig replied back he was adding strut braces, etc. Up to you it's just a lot harder to work on the pan after it's painted, seats, carpeting, etc. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=451436
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'66 Bus(11-window, CLK rims, disk brakes, IRS, bags, hydr. clutch, Super-1600 w/injection) |
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