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#1
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i have installed a 915 box and many people said "you will need a hydraulic clutch slave or it cant be done with a pull style clutch"
well to prove them wrong its in and it works... What i did was to remove the weld holding the clutch tube at the rear of the floor pan relocate the end of the tube to the lower side of the chassis (where you have cut out the necesary metal to fit your 915) weld it back on. next using a std bug flexible clutch tube,push it onto your newly re-locatd clutch tube, then i used a metal clutch tube bracket of a camper and mounted that to hold the end of the flexi clutch tube... i then fitted the clutch arm onto the gearbox along with a stainless steel bush that the threaded cable end goes through (my mate made me the bush but i beleive its the same as the 914 (901 gearbox) part..... so using mostly standard parts i now have a fully operational clutch, no hydro,no extra wheels or pulleys pictures are available Just thought id pass that on |
#2
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Some pics that you post upon here (or on the samba) really will help alot. Thanks in advance Wiebrand
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B-Extreme B-Tuning..... Racebug is comming to get ya!!! |
#3
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I found it very heavy when I did mine... plus I broke a cable! I also had to extend the pedal end lever to get enough travel, but that may be year related.
Do you have the version with the helper 'omega' spring? I would think that would help loads... Rich
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http://www.ricola.co.uk |
#4
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My clutch feels very light,i know its brand new so it may get harder with time also my gearbox doesnt have a spring,i think my box was the version with hydrulic clutch not really sure (just looked at you web site our clutch arms look the same) was your gearbag a hydraulic version (or are they all hyd) Cheers NUTTA |
#5
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I'm fairly certain all 915s are mechanical clutch, the early ones didn't have the helper spring though. I used a new 915 clutch...
MAybe the difference between our installs is the pedal assembly, mine was a 1965 pan? Oh, my cable broke where it was shortened for the shortened pan, just meant to say how much harder the pedal was... Rich
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http://www.ricola.co.uk |
#6
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Hi Turbonutter
Any photos yet? Steve
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STI powered 1303 in the works. |
#7
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hello mate what photos are you looking for id forgotten about that post
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#8
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Hi
Im seriously thinking of doing this conversion. So any info would be good, Ive been offered an early 915 (mechanical speedo) for good price which has the pull style clutch I believe. Im moving my tranny forward for the STI motor Im fitting so figue a little more cutting wont hurt. Im going to short torsion bars and cutout the middle of the torsion bar housing complety. Ive been having doubts as to if my type one box will handle 206 kW+. Steve
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STI powered 1303 in the works. |
#9
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ah i see nice...cut the torsion out completely like ricola and use coil overs..i do have some pictures i will mail them to you as puttin pics on here is a hassle send me your mail my address is danw@carillion.com
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#10
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Hi
I sent you my email address. Im still going to use torsion bars, Im using 40 hp ones, I will fit another spline in the remaing torsion bar housing inside the fork. Steve
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STI powered 1303 in the works. |
#11
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Hi Steve,
There really is no need to remove or shorten the torsion tubes as I have learned in my recent 915 install. Pictures are in this section of the site. When you remove just the thick piece of steel welded-in plate to where the M10 thread pieces hang from (the ones that you bolt the T1 nose trans mount to), and shove the 915 trans just a few mm's from the torsiontube center, you have the same or even sligthly more clearence at the rear bellhousing of the trans than you had with a type 1 tranny!! Moving the trans even further to the front of the car, will result is misaligned axles, which may not be a problem (especially if you have long enough axles and bus CV's for instance). Regards, Walter |
#12
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Hi
Im hanging a great big lump of Subaru out the back of my car, so getting the weight forward 4 inches will help with weight distribution. Steve
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STI powered 1303 in the works. |
#13
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i think cutting the torsion is a good idea i have not cut them out on my car but wished i had as the deep sump on my type 4 is pretty close to the ground.
for your super rude impessa engined volksy i would hack out mr torsion. |
#14
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![]() Also, remember that AFAIK, the torsion tube does give quite some structural strength to the chassis, not unimportant with big, torque engines. |
#15
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oops i wasnt paying attention
![]() If the torsion tube was cut out of the center and the nose cone of the gearbox positioned in the center it would fit great.I could not mount my gearbox above the torsion tube like ricola because the engine would sit to high. As it is with the 915 it has pushed the engine back about an inch |
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