GermanLook Forums  

Go Back   GermanLook Forums > Technical Section > Transmissions

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old January 26th 2004, 10:26
Turbonutta Turbonutta is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: at home
Posts: 119
Lightbulb 915 clutch

i have installed a 915 box and many people said "you will need a hydraulic clutch slave or it cant be done with a pull style clutch"
well to prove them wrong its in and it works...

What i did was to remove the weld holding the clutch tube at the rear of the floor pan relocate the end of the tube to the lower side of the chassis (where you have cut out the necesary metal to fit your 915) weld it back on.

next using a std bug flexible clutch tube,push it onto your newly re-locatd clutch tube, then i used a metal clutch tube bracket of a camper and mounted that to hold the end of the flexi clutch tube...

i then fitted the clutch arm onto the gearbox along with a stainless steel bush that the threaded cable end goes through (my mate made me the bush but i beleive its the same as the 914 (901 gearbox) part.....

so using mostly standard parts i now have a fully operational clutch, no hydro,no extra wheels or pulleys
pictures are available

Just thought id pass that on
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old January 26th 2004, 17:18
Racelook's Avatar
Racelook Racelook is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Leende, Netherlands
Posts: 672
-

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbonutta
i have installed a 915 box and many people said "you will need a hydraulic clutch slave or it cant be done with a pull style clutch"
well to prove them wrong its in and it works...

What i did was to remove the weld holding the clutch tube at the rear of the floor pan relocate the end of the tube to the lower side of the chassis (where you have cut out the necesary metal to fit your 915) weld it back on.

next using a std bug flexible clutch tube,push it onto your newly re-locatd clutch tube, then i used a metal clutch tube bracket of a camper and mounted that to hold the end of the flexi clutch tube...

i then fitted the clutch arm onto the gearbox along with a stainless steel bush that the threaded cable end goes through (my mate made me the bush but i beleive its the same as the 914 (901 gearbox) part.....

so using mostly standard parts i now have a fully operational clutch, no hydro,no extra wheels or pulleys
pictures are available

Just thought id pass that on
I'm thinking in my head how you maked it.. but I can't see it exactly..

Some pics that you post upon here (or on the samba) really will help alot.

Thanks in advance Wiebrand
__________________
B-Extreme B-Tuning.....
Racebug is comming to get ya!!!
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old January 27th 2004, 08:54
ricola's Avatar
ricola ricola is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Warwick, UK
Posts: 1,137
I found it very heavy when I did mine... plus I broke a cable! I also had to extend the pedal end lever to get enough travel, but that may be year related.
Do you have the version with the helper 'omega' spring? I would think that would help loads...

Rich
__________________
http://www.ricola.co.uk
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old January 28th 2004, 07:59
Turbonutta Turbonutta is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: at home
Posts: 119
Quote:
Originally Posted by ricola
I found it very heavy when I did mine... plus I broke a cable! I also had to extend the pedal end lever to get enough travel, but that may be year related.
Do you have the version with the helper 'omega' spring? I would think that would help loads...

Rich
Hi ricola, im using a std clutch cable, you say you broke yours maybe the clutch arm is a different lengh.
My clutch feels very light,i know its brand new so it may get harder with time
also my gearbox doesnt have a spring,i think my box was the version with hydrulic clutch not really sure (just looked at you web site our clutch arms look the same) was your gearbag a hydraulic version (or are they all hyd)
Cheers NUTTA
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old January 29th 2004, 04:38
ricola's Avatar
ricola ricola is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Warwick, UK
Posts: 1,137
I'm fairly certain all 915s are mechanical clutch, the early ones didn't have the helper spring though. I used a new 915 clutch...
MAybe the difference between our installs is the pedal assembly, mine was a 1965 pan? Oh, my cable broke where it was shortened for the shortened pan, just meant to say how much harder the pedal was...
Rich
__________________
http://www.ricola.co.uk
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old March 2nd 2005, 08:31
Steve C's Avatar
Steve C Steve C is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,781
Hi Turbonutter

Any photos yet?

Steve
__________________
STI powered 1303 in the works.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old March 3rd 2005, 05:36
Turbonutta Turbonutta is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: at home
Posts: 119
hello mate what photos are you looking for id forgotten about that post
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old March 4th 2005, 07:29
Steve C's Avatar
Steve C Steve C is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,781
Hi

Im seriously thinking of doing this conversion. So any info would be good, Ive been offered an early 915 (mechanical speedo) for good price which has the pull style clutch I believe. Im moving my tranny forward for the STI motor Im fitting so figue a little more cutting wont hurt. Im going to short torsion bars and cutout the middle of the torsion bar housing complety. Ive been having doubts as to if my type one box will handle 206 kW+.

Steve
__________________
STI powered 1303 in the works.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old March 4th 2005, 13:52
Turbonutta Turbonutta is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: at home
Posts: 119
ah i see nice...cut the torsion out completely like ricola and use coil overs..i do have some pictures i will mail them to you as puttin pics on here is a hassle send me your mail my address is danw@carillion.com
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old March 5th 2005, 08:36
Steve C's Avatar
Steve C Steve C is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,781
Hi

I sent you my email address. Im still going to use torsion bars, Im using 40 hp ones, I will fit another spline in the remaing torsion bar housing inside the fork.

Steve
__________________
STI powered 1303 in the works.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old March 7th 2005, 06:58
Wally's Avatar
Wally Wally is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,552
Hi Steve,

There really is no need to remove or shorten the torsion tubes as I have learned in my recent 915 install. Pictures are in this section of the site.

When you remove just the thick piece of steel welded-in plate to where the M10 thread pieces hang from (the ones that you bolt the T1 nose trans mount to), and shove the 915 trans just a few mm's from the torsiontube center, you have the same or even sligthly more clearence at the rear bellhousing of the trans than you had with a type 1 tranny!!

Moving the trans even further to the front of the car, will result is misaligned axles, which may not be a problem (especially if you have long enough axles and bus CV's for instance).

Regards,
Walter
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old March 7th 2005, 07:26
Steve C's Avatar
Steve C Steve C is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,781
Hi

Im hanging a great big lump of Subaru out the back of my car, so getting the weight forward 4 inches will help with weight distribution.

Steve
__________________
STI powered 1303 in the works.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old March 10th 2005, 13:39
Turbonutta Turbonutta is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: at home
Posts: 119
i think cutting the torsion is a good idea i have not cut them out on my car but wished i had as the deep sump on my type 4 is pretty close to the ground.
for your super rude impessa engined volksy i would hack out mr torsion.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old March 10th 2005, 13:59
Wally's Avatar
Wally Wally is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,552
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbonutta
i think cutting the torsion is a good idea i have not cut them out on my car but wished i had as the deep sump on my type 4 is pretty close to the ground.
Sorry, but I don't see any relation in the lateral movement of the trans and the vertical clearence problems (sump) of your engine

Also, remember that AFAIK, the torsion tube does give quite some structural strength to the chassis, not unimportant with big, torque engines.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old March 10th 2005, 14:14
Turbonutta Turbonutta is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: at home
Posts: 119
oops i wasnt paying attention sorry wally ..on my bug with the 915 in i would have liked the gearbox to be raised (as i have deep sump)in the floor pan but the torsion tube is in the way.
If the torsion tube was cut out of the center and the nose cone of the gearbox positioned in the center it would fit great.I could not mount my gearbox above the torsion tube like ricola because the engine would sit to high.
As it is with the 915 it has pushed the engine back about an inch
Attached Images
File Type: jpg sump.jpg (69.1 KB, 63 views)
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:28.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
© www.GermanLook.net 2002-2017. All Rights Reserved