preparing a 70 beetle for 300+ hp..

[3MCRacing]

I would check all the factory welds and reweld any area that looks suspicious. Im all for buying the Kafer cup brace but you could tie your roll cage (wich i would use 1 1/2in .095 mild steel or chromoly) into the horns if your going to use a rear swaybar look for the type that the bar can be changed and the outer arms remain the same. a bar can be around 80.00 but this gives you the benifit of beign able to change the dia. of the bar to any dia. and its easy to change. But this does require a liitle bit of fab work. I say this because it would suck to get out on the road and find that the sway bar kit you baught from XXX is to small of a dia. with the type im suggesting u could determine the correct dia. (or pretty damn close) to start with. BUT as i have never used the brands you buy from the catalogs in Hot VWs i dont know if they are the correct dia. for your application. hope this helps and sorry for rambling on and on and on and on and LOL

[miller]

I have a Ford 2.3T that im gonna put in my ghia that could get that much hp quite easily when my rebuild is done. Ill probably run low boost for around 200hp. Basically Wheel width is a big concern. Wide wheel to get you going and wide wheels to stop. Right now before you get into much suspension roll cage modification I would decide on a set of wheels and tires then design the rest of the cars systems around them. I would also check out the half shafts and make sure they are free of scratches and marks. If no marks I heard it was a good idea to wrap them with electrical tape 2 times to prevent scratches and nicks therefore improving fatigue life of the part a bunch. I would think about redoing the pan and adding in some supports. Remember try to triangulate everything too and never put a bar that might have load on it connect in the center of another bar. Always go to the corners if your making a joint. and try and make some of your roll cage joints end at your suspension mounts. Weld your frame horns and check on your tranny mounts and if you can stand it get solid mounts or at least urethane. Chack out this pic of the wrc focus roll cage. Pretty much every joint end at another joint resulting in full triangulation. http://www.ultimatecarpage.com/pic.m...um=11&num=1645

[vwcossie]

I am putting the "old" wrc engine in to my Superbeetle (1303)
1993 ccm 16 V Turbo. As stock it puts out 204 hp.
"All" Cosworth engines in Norway are tuned from 300 hp and up to 700+ hp.
I think 300 hp and 330 ib.ft are enough for me.
Then I need a strong transmission. T-1 or 091 nosecone?
Any suggestions?

[miller]

Id take the T1 tranny and to test if its strong enough for your engine do the ol float test. Throw it in the closest large body of water and if it floats then you got a strong enough tranny. Id go porsche 915 and almost nothing else. Im looking for a 915 right now. I figure ill go a month or 2 of babying my type one then ill upgrade.

[thelazerviking]

Originally Posted by miller

Id take the T1 tranny and to test if its strong enough for your engine do the ol float test. Throw it in the closest large body of water and if it floats then you got a strong enough tranny. Id go porsche 915 and almost nothing else. Im looking for a 915 right now. I figure ill go a month or 2 of babying my type one then ill upgrade.

..........WTF?

[CPRcubed]

.... meaning you're not going to get there from here with a T1 tranny. Cheers!

[thelazerviking]

haha whoa.. that one slipped right by me at 11:00 last night! (don't let that fool you, it probably would have slipped right by me anyway)