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#1
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It is built from (slightly) used parts(not the cam/gears, oil pump or lifters, bearings, etc) I did all the machine work and the dynamic bal. job myself at Jakes. I have not added up my cost yet. I'm sure it will not last 1/4 as long as a type 4 built from the proper parts but I will have fun with it as long as I can or I will sell it soon and do a type 4. Mine is truely a swap meet special, but it runs like hell. :agree:
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NO_H2O 72 1302 Smack Black GL 73 Bus (2L CIS Powered) 66 Beetle, 73 Standard Beetle 72 Pinzgauer 710M Volksport Kafer Gruppe |
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#2
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I've recently been thinking to the posibility of a Turbo type 1. I think that would be way fun. And work well.
What makes a good starting point. I was looking at shop talk forums and people are running stock all the way to 2217! I read somewhere that turbos like shorter strokes (or was it longer strokes I don't remember). I'm interested in making power everywhere! So a smaller turbo would be good, that way I could make boost waaaay low. I do NOT want to exceed the 200HP mark in any way shape or forum. I dont want to spend thousands and thousands and thousands of dollars on a Super Tranny for my Super Beetle. Although I do recognise that a perf. tranny is required/recomended. This is a steet driven car, want gobs of low end torue and to pull like a scaled rabbit to *whatever deemed sane/built for* rpms. .0034% Drag, 20% Road Race/Twisty Canyon road, 80% Street. I'm willing to go and check out the engine every week or two. (Valves, keep an eye on it..) I don't want to worry about taking long trips in it (obviously, I would check it first). Nor do I want to pull it every week. |
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#3
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I've thrown in the towel with type 1 engines, in my hands they don't last. I've now put 30,000 mi on my 914 and haven't had too much trouble (clutch, FI which led to a little head troubles). Overall the engine is stout and very streetable, it works for me and my lead foot.
From all my research turbos like the shorter stroke so they can wind out quicker, VW Trends put a mild turbo on a bone stock 1600 and it ran strong till it blew. |
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#4
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I've come to think that if this car I'm lookin at comes with a type 4 core and webber cabs. Wich is expensive part (I'd imagine) Mabey it's best if I just go with the type 4. As with the type 1 I would have to buy everything. Well I'm sure I can ger from DCNF's for the type 1 but not like those are going to do anything
I wonder how big of a type 4 I can build with Webber 44s. |
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#5
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I use 44s for Type 4engines up to 2615ccs with great results. The Type 4 is all about port velocity and not volume on the intake side...
The fuel plots on the 2270 were simply that particular dyno session, I have built 200 2270s since then and 9 of them were devoted only to testing... The site is being updated as we speak
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Jake Raby |
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#6
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I'm curious then why you use 42/44mm carbs on the 1316? Must be the rpms..
I'd just love your 2270 or 2316 or if I won the lotery (or saved up for extra year..heh..) your 2563. Do you offer the 2563? I'm currently looking for a more "economical" way to make nice torque and about 160-200HP. Mabey 1.7L or 2L with the 90MM cylinders running 10 lbs boost. Your DTM or stock (type 1 and 4 tin combined and modified upright) cooling. Does the "vanagon" head offer any exhaust upgrades other then using a "real" seal? Mabey 270dir, .440 lift. Mabey stroke a little.. whatever makes a good 'combo' Considering I can fab the turbo might be good for awhile. |
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#7
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Actually.. I've got acess to a "ED" core. Some said it was a 2L some said 1.8L 2 liters had a 94 bore, 1.8 had a 93 bore, 1.7 had a 90 bore. Wonder if it matters in a turbo.. not a big difference.
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