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Old September 7th 2005, 20:23
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lazylongboarder lazylongboarder is offline
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I know lexan will scratch, but aircooled.net has an anti-scratch coating. Does anyone know if this coating helps enough to resist scratching on door windows?

Thanks a lot guys for all your input.
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Old September 7th 2005, 21:50
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volkdent volkdent is offline
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You know, I have tint on the windows of my car. It's been on for over 10 years and it still is not very scratched. Maybe you could put a light tint on the inside AND the outside as a protectant for the Lexan?

Jason
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Old September 7th 2005, 21:57
coffinator coffinator is offline
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lazy,

I dont know about the coating but I have some stuff you use to get the scratches out of lexan and plexiglass. Lexan doesn't scratch as easy as plexiglass. This stuff I have is awsome. It would take about 20 minutes to do both doors inside and out. You just squert it on and use some sand paper (12000 that is 12 thousand grit) and sand it in one direction and wipe it off. Then appily some more and sand 90deg. to the previous direction. I would go with the cf door skins and the stock dor that has been lightened ALOT. Basicly keep the wondow regulator support and the mounts used to hold th cf door skin on. I would use race glass instead. It is thin glass but it is very strong and light. If you do get lexan or plexiglass windows and you need some of that stuff let me know.

hope this helps,
mike
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Old September 8th 2005, 01:07
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lazylongboarder lazylongboarder is offline
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All of the advice is great guys thanks a lot.

How do the door carbon door skins work/attach to the stock doors?

Also, how much are the carbon doors? And also shipping to the U.S.. (I wish I could speak/read german more than any other language)

I have access to some carbon supplies and a vacuum bagger, I may just make some identical carbon stock doors so I don't have to worry about shipping if its too crazy expensive.
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98' Audi A4
93' T-Bird (oh yeah!)
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74' beetle
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Old September 8th 2005, 01:10
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lazylongboarder lazylongboarder is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coffinator
lazy,

I dont know about the coating but I have some stuff you use to get the scratches out of lexan and plexiglass. Lexan doesn't scratch as easy as plexiglass. This stuff I have is awsome. It would take about 20 minutes to do both doors inside and out. You just squert it on and use some sand paper (12000 that is 12 thousand grit) and sand it in one direction and wipe it off. Then appily some more and sand 90deg. to the previous direction. I would go with the cf door skins and the stock dor that has been lightened ALOT. Basicly keep the wondow regulator support and the mounts used to hold th cf door skin on. I would use race glass instead. It is thin glass but it is very strong and light. If you do get lexan or plexiglass windows and you need some of that stuff let me know.

hope this helps,
mike
Thanks a lot mike, I'll get in contact with you if thats the route i take.

By the way, what is this stuff called, or is it your secret concoction?
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1974 type 1
Turbo 6 piston brakes at all corners
Project is taking all my money and it's all Germanlook.com's fault!

98' Audi A4
93' T-Bird (oh yeah!)
90' 911 C2
74' beetle
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  #6  
Old September 8th 2005, 07:33
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tom'72 tom'72 is offline
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http://www.remmele-motorsport.com/de/index_de.html

The cf doors are 690 Euro a piece and I guess shipping would be 100-150 Euro for the pair to the US.

If you have questions for Remmele, they correspond in English very well

ifo@remmele-motorsport.com

I bought a cf hood there and it shipped out a week after payment cleared.
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Old September 8th 2005, 23:45
coffinator coffinator is offline
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lazy,
the stuff for your windows is called Mico-Mesh. It comes as a kit to fix aircraft windows. I can get just some compound and some sandpaper for you if you want.

mike
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Old September 29th 2005, 19:12
Modern_manBr Modern_manBr is offline
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I still think that if you want a light door you should get rid of the stock glass and window regulator, (the regulator itself and the glass weight almost the same as the rest of the door)
I fyou still plan to use the roll up glass, use a pice of lexan with clear windows film (the same used for tint has a clear version, used just to make a temperd glass "work" almost like a laminated glass when it breaks).
but the better idea woul still be a carbon door (fiber glass at least) with thin lexan bolted (I hate pop rivets) to it, you can make a slidding window for the driver side and keep the passenger side as is (why should you care for the cooling for your passenger? If your passenger is a girl she would probably even enter a VW bug anyway)
on my car, my plans are for running lexan the same thickness of the stock glass all around (excep the windshield), with the stock rubber and even the stock trim (my car will look as much as sctock as possible)
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