Mikey's Ghia Thread...

[Mikey]

Thanks a lot guys. Getting encouragement like this makes me want to work twice as hard. Especialy since you are the ones that built and are building the cars that inspired me.

I'm sure after my engine gets in I'll have a very long weekend.

I have a few ideas I'd like to toss around for getting my coolant from the front to the back. Ahem...

1. Run round tubing inside the main tunnel. Send and return. Pro- Neat/cleaner look, practical since everything else is in the tunnel Con- Tight space, and I havn't figure out a good way around the rear torsion.
2. Run one pipe inside the tunnel and one on the passenger side. (right next the tunnel) Pro- Not as clean, but clean. Con- A big hump on the passenger side of the tunnel, and the rear torsion.
3. Square OR round tubing under the car. Pro- More room than the tunnel. Con- Might limit ground clearance, and I'm a little uneasy about the pipes under the car.
4. Heater channels. Pro- Clean! I can check for rust while I've got them open. Con- A lot more work.

I'm thinking either 1-1/2 or 1-3/4 diameter. The radiator inlet and outlet are 1-3/4. The engine I don't have yet. I can always get an adaptor to a smaller diameter for the rad or weld a smaller diameter pipe on it. (I love TIG ) As for material, Aluminum, Stainless, and Carbon Steel are all options. But the cost might be a limiting factor. I have the capibility of welding all. I kinda want to say away from copper. Question... Would a smaller diameter pipe put a strain on the water pump by restricting the volume of water it can move? I'm an aircooled guy.

I'm sure I missed a few pros and a cons, But I've just gone blank on some of them. And please excuse all spelling errors.

Let me know guys. I'd sure love to have another perspective on this.

[Mikey]

Any Ideas?

[Panelfantastic]

What I just got last week for mine...



1.5" al-you-min-e-um, schedule 40 pipe.

...and some nice braided hose from ebay to make my connections...



I didn't have to go that thick on the pipe, they have tube that is cheaper and thinner but mine does run under the bus and I wanted some protection. I picked aluminum because it can only help with the cooling (even as thick as it is) and is easy to work with.
Your project is looking AWESOME by the way!

[Mikey]

Thanks Panel.

I think I might go with that kind of a set up too, I finaly looked under the car while holding up a peice of pipe, and I realized from the seat tracks back, it's pretty much protected by the pans. The only place it isn't is under the driver's and passenger's feet. It would also disipate heat like you said, and it would be easier to route around the rear torsion.

When I originaly made a front mount for my 914/01 tranny. I had no where near the experiance I have now. So I made it to function first, and look good second. Actually, it looks horible. So I made a new one. Also it was directly over the rear torsion housing. So putting a rear sway bar on would be impossible.
The first picture shows the old mount with the plates for the new. Honestly, at this point I had no idea what I was going to do. Next two pictures are the finished product compared to the old. A big improvement in function and looks. I thought about making my own rear tranny brace, but I decided against it for now.

I also installed my Kafer cup brace. Long story short, it was a PITA! Especialy with the body on! If you don't put those tabs in the right place, you can't take it out and put it back to weld it and paint it. It does look good up in there. I will take better pictures once the body is off.

I've have tomarrow off from school for Pres. Day. I'll probably get over to the shop for a few hours and do a little more here and there.

What Ya'll think up in hur?

[yetibone]

You got da kuh-nowlege poppin' off all up in 'dis joint, yo.

With that new crossmember you made, you could prolly use a regular aftermarket rear swaybar, and not have to fab up something like I had to.