Suby-conversion advice?

[tom'72]

I would at least make a type of shield to cover them

I will be doing that in a few months when the suby engine is transplanted to my IRS chassis, wouldn't want to go from watercooled to aircooled in a matter of seconds

[Mikey]

Just a few random thoughts.

The idea I was trying to pan out, was running straight aluminum pipe till the pan starts to curve. then run SS braided lines. but I found the SS lines are expensive. I thought this would work since I didn't have means of bending pipe. Since then I'd rather rent a bender than buy the SS lines.

People say sheild the pipes. I don't remember the last time I felt rocks hitting the bottom of my car. Bottoming out the car? Has anyone that doesn't drive a lowrider bottomed their car out? I have never.

Wouldn't 1/16th wall thickness be strong enough? 1.5 OD - 1/16th wall thickness = 1-3/8 ID. (1/8th for both walls)

I had what I would almost call, a vision. I saw the pipes running together under the car like the picture above. (Tom'72's) but put a peice of C-channel. On top, as a cover. Almost like the C-channel I used to hold my radiator. but with differant dimentions.

I want to plan this out carefully, so if I need to do something, like change transmissions, pull the engine, change beams. what ever I want, it won't take an act of congress to get the water lines and other obsicles out of the way.

Please excuse the rants. That's one reason I started this thread, So I can ask any question or say almost anything (about the subject) and not feel like I'm hyjacking.

[Mikey]

I need some help, I'm ready to order my fuel line 3/8. I've got my pump bought, but I need a fuel filter. Doesn't sound hard, but there's a lot of differant filters. I cetainly don't want to starve my engine for fuel because of the filter. The only thing I do know is that I have Fuel Injection on the suby, after that, Nothing.

What kind? type? size? What do I look for in a filter?

I'm kinda clueless. I saw some that were $10 and some that were almost $100.

[Axl]

Hey Mikey , I would say that your best bet would be to go with something close to the stock Suby filter . It shouldn't starve your engine , and give you the flow rate that you need . That's just my opinion , but since I have not actually built my Suby-Volks Bug yet , it is possible that someone else has a different , and maybe better suggestion . Axl .

[Mikey]

Thanks Axl,

Any advice at this point would be helpful. I had in mind buying a filter that would be an upgrade over stock, and allow me to up grade my fuel system over time, If I should feel the need. But from what I've heard, a Bone Stock Suby would be plenty of power.

[GeorgeL]

Originally Posted by Mikey

Thanks Axl,

Any advice at this point would be helpful. I had in mind buying a filter that would be an upgrade over stock, and allow me to up grade my fuel system over time, If I should feel the need. But from what I've heard, a Bone Stock Suby would be plenty of power.

You need two filters, a coarse one between the tank and pump to protect the pump, and a fine one between the pump and engine to protect the injectors.

There are quite a few filters out there, as you have noted. I'd stick close to the stock Subaru parts until you need an upgrade. Here is a page with some suitable parts from Outback Motorsports:

http://www.outbackmotors.com/fuel_ra..._injectors.htm

George

[GeorgeL]

Originally Posted by Mikey

Just a few random thoughts.

The idea I was trying to pan out, was running straight aluminum pipe till the pan starts to curve. then run SS braided lines.

I think that braided lines are overkill. Use Gates green stripe hose and it will last a long time.

Unless you are severely lowered or going to rally the car, you don't need any shielding for metal or rubber lines. Heck, just about every domestic car has fuel and brake lines run right under the body with little shielding.

One concern I have is galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals. The engine is aluminum, while most radiators are brass. Copper pipe is commonly used in conversions, but some use steel or aluminum. As long as there is no external current path galvanic corrosion should not be a problem, but this means that you need to isolate the pipes and the radiator electrically from the body. Not too difficult, but something to pay attention to.

George

[Mikey]

http://www.germanlook.com/Forums/showthread.php?t=7050 Here's a link to my build-up thread in the VKG section of the site.

I'll have to look into galvanic corrosion. I've never heard of that. For what it's worth, My radiator is aluminum.

Thanks for the advice.

[GeorgeL]

Originally Posted by Mikey

http://www.germanlook.com/Forums/showthread.php?t=7050 Here's a link to my build-up thread in the VKG section of the site.

I'll have to look into galvanic corrosion. I've never heard of that. For what it's worth, My radiator is aluminum.

Thanks for the advice.

Well, if you have an aluminum engine, an aluminum radiator, aluminum piping and a aluminum header tank you probably don't have much to worry about.

I was originally thinking of using copper piping for ease of fabrication, but perhaps after I get a MIG welder the aluminum might become more practical.

[Mikey]

Originally Posted by GeorgeL

I was originally thinking of using copper piping for ease of fabrication, but perhaps after I get a MIG welder the aluminum might become more practical.

Did you mean, TIG? 'Tungsten Arc Welding'

It's possible to weld aluminum with MIG, but you need a specal wire feeder. A spool gun. Other then that you can't weld it with MIG.

[Mikey]

Hmmm... I don't want to jump the gun, but I'm looking past my engine installation to get an idea of what's in store for me with the ignition.

I'm using a Megasquirt set up with the EDIS ignition. I've been reading on this site. http://www.megasquirt.info/ms2/EDIS.htm I found this coil pack. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku (I know I can get them cheaper used, but if I have the money I'm going to buy it new.) I can't figure out what parts I need total.

So far I believe I need:
EDIS module
Crank wheel (36 -1)
Crank variable reluctor sensor (VRS)
and 1 coil pack.

Is that all I should need? I am by no stretch of the imagination an electrician. So this is extra confusing for me. :help: