Transplant time

[Humble]

Unfortunately it is taking away from the turbo project but this is kind of necessary. It is already full flow with oil lines coming from the oil cooler boss in the shroud which probably means there's no oil cooler in the shroud. I'm not sure what to think of that setup but the previous owner said the oil temp dropped significantly when the fan can on, and temps never went over 200. I'm pretty sure there are vanes inside the shroud because I can see the rivets for them on the back side.

[Humble]

Further tear down yesterday revealed that the rockers are scat not pauter like I was told. The heads are aggressively ported, like a wedge port, and the manifolds and gaskets to match. I checked lift at the valve and found it's only .370 which seems small to me for a motor this size, but there are dual valve springs for higher lift/revs. Heads are a 040 casting, not sure how strong that is compared to the 044 CB heads. There is no oil cooler in the shroud just the large external cooler, I'm going to test this setup in the car to see how well it works. I did add a thin line oil sump as it's pretty much required for twisty mountain roads.

[Steve C]

Hi

I'm running a 1904 in my daily with no internal cooler, just an external one behind the front apron with a fan, stays cool.

Steve

[Clatter]

The original German 040 castings are of a much higher quality than the Brazil 044.
More fins, with much greater detail, and supposedly bettter metallurgy.

Those intake manifolds will work with a factory doghouse shroud.
There are many reasons to hate Chinese tins.
The biggest is the lack of cooling to your motor.
I'll spare you the others...

Going to check CR and the valvetrain geometry,
Or just run it?

A torque cam and the resulting short-shifting can make a motor last a lot longer in a daily...

[Humble]

I did check valvetrain geometry and it looked good but I might open up one of the valve covers again and double check the pushrods, check if they are steel or aluminum. I'm getting a lot of noise when it's warm so I'm thinking steel or chromoly pushrods. I wanted to run the motor as is since it was already dynoed with this combo and everything is pretty new.

I'm still dialing in the carbs but I'm stunned by the sound of a 2276 at full song in the mountains. I don't think I've turned the radio on yet. This motor loves to rev and once the carbs are properly balanced it'll really sing! The power is great too, it's not all there yet but very light throttle cruising through the mountains should help out the milage a bit (I hope). Despite the exhaust being too small I think it's really helped the low end torque, it's like a tractor at low revs. At high revs it keeps winding out but the power's not there.

So far the issue's are :
1. found a small leak on the 1-2 carb accelerator pump, need to pull and fix
2. 1-2 carb accelerator pump doesn't open at the same rate as the 3-4 side
3. Wrong idle adjustment screw and spring on the 1-2 carb
4. Get thermo switch for oil cooler fan, right now it's wired to the rear defrost relay

Carb info for the curious is .60 idles, 1.35 mains, F11 tubes, 2.00 airs, and 36 vents, which is "by the book" in the weber manual for this motor.

[gonebuggy]

Check your mains with a jet gauge. 135 mains are SMALL for a 2276. I also think 60 idles are large.

You should be in the 55 idle and 150 main range. What Vents are you using? 36mm? What's your timing set at?


Alex

[Wally]

Originally Posted by Humble

I did check valvetrain geometry and it looked good but I might open up one of the valve covers again and double check the pushrods, check if they are steel or aluminum. I'm getting a lot of noise when it's warm so I'm thinking steel or chromoly pushrods.

How surprised would you be when the valve clearence is set for alu pushrods and they turned out to be chr-mo... wouldn't be the first person/PO to have done this