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#1
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love it.Interested on your water pump removal solution - I've got an electric to fit to mine so would like to know. Did you just remove the impeller? |
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#2
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Al, thanks, i positioned the pump on the return side near the engine so its having it easyer than otherwise, they will work fine
with the mech' pump and belt still working, then run them on after shutdown to kill heatsink, but i was after getting the installed weight back and gaining every last h.p from reduced loads and belt drag, the impeller, shaft and bearings etc have recovered the weight. ive also machined the c/s pully and flywheel to reduce oil seal friction, and also run 100 % coolant, the difference can be felt turning by hand, i should have done a torque comparison before and after!!
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#3
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Cool. And the housing has just been welded up? Any cooling flow problems?
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#4
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No, in my case i can pre bleed the system, with it all quiet, you can see and hear it bleeding out, all the rads are at the correct angle required to self bleed, i also use a high mounted main rad to protect the engine from any trapped air, bearing in mind time is tight at a race meet, you gotta go when they call ya!!
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#5
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Would really love to see it. Itching to get mine ready. I'm still set on rear mount rads. I think that the electric water pump will give some cooling benefits and I am confident that I can get enough flow through two aluminium radiators and some heavy duty fans. |
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#6
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Have a look in the bike world,
rads and fans being far superior to car stuff regarding weight and efficiency, the only problems are adaptors etc, re' small pipe dia's on bike stuff, mine hooked up nicely with a bit of planning, also air control ducting is key, both in and out as you know.
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#7
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Can you show us a photo of those bike radiators. I was thinking about using the Hayabusa bike radiator and tilting it 45 degrees.
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#8
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Cool, I did look at some and will look again - I've hunted for some alu 3 core Mini race radiators. Look perfect and the actual rad, albeit a standard one, that I borrowed off a friend fits a treat
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#9
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Badbug, you can just see the l/h rad in the pic, the r/h one is in a similar position near the starter. Here's the front rad', its set high to self bleed easily, and allow some protection in the event of..... oops, it happens...plus other stuff is mounted under it, battery, oil coolers etc, the rake angle and ducting slow the air making it more efficient, it has a built in expansion tank and can be moved warward for service purposes without dismounting coolant pipes, exit air is ducted out in the low preasure area behind the front wings. regards....
Last edited by spannermanager; February 1st 2011 at 14:31. |
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