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  #1  
Old January 29th 2011, 11:35
al_kaholik al_kaholik is offline
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love it.

Interested on your water pump removal solution - I've got an electric to fit to mine so would like to know. Did you just remove the impeller?
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  #2  
Old January 29th 2011, 14:49
spannermanager spannermanager is offline
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Al, thanks, i positioned the pump on the return side near the engine so its having it easyer than otherwise, they will work fine
with the mech' pump and belt still working, then run them on after shutdown to kill heatsink, but i was after getting the installed weight back and gaining every last h.p from reduced loads and belt drag, the impeller, shaft and bearings etc have recovered the weight. ive also machined the c/s pully and flywheel to reduce oil seal friction, and also run 100 % coolant, the difference can be felt turning by hand, i should have done a torque comparison before and after!!
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Old January 29th 2011, 15:48
al_kaholik al_kaholik is offline
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Cool. And the housing has just been welded up? Any cooling flow problems?
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  #4  
Old January 29th 2011, 16:45
spannermanager spannermanager is offline
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No, in my case i can pre bleed the system, with it all quiet, you can see and hear it bleeding out, all the rads are at the correct angle required to self bleed, i also use a high mounted main rad to protect the engine from any trapped air, bearing in mind time is tight at a race meet, you gotta go when they call ya!!
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Old January 29th 2011, 17:06
al_kaholik al_kaholik is offline
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Would really love to see it. Itching to get mine ready.

I'm still set on rear mount rads. I think that the electric water pump will give some cooling benefits and I am confident that I can get enough flow through two aluminium radiators and some heavy duty fans.
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  #6  
Old January 30th 2011, 05:28
spannermanager spannermanager is offline
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Have a look in the bike world, rads and fans being far superior to car stuff regarding weight and efficiency, the only problems are adaptors etc, re' small pipe dia's on bike stuff, mine hooked up nicely with a bit of planning, also air control ducting is key, both in and out as you know.
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Old January 30th 2011, 08:40
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Bad bug Bad bug is offline
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Can you show us a photo of those bike radiators. I was thinking about using the Hayabusa bike radiator and tilting it 45 degrees.
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  #8  
Old January 30th 2011, 11:23
al_kaholik al_kaholik is offline
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Cool, I did look at some and will look again - I've hunted for some alu 3 core Mini race radiators. Look perfect and the actual rad, albeit a standard one, that I borrowed off a friend fits a treat
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Old January 31st 2011, 13:49
spannermanager spannermanager is offline
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Badbug, you can just see the l/h rad in the pic, the r/h one is in a similar position near the starter. Here's the front rad', its set high to self bleed easily, and allow some protection in the event of..... oops, it happens...plus other stuff is mounted under it, battery, oil coolers etc, the rake angle and ducting slow the air making it more efficient, it has a built in expansion tank and can be moved warward for service purposes without dismounting coolant pipes, exit air is ducted out in the low preasure area behind the front wings. regards....

Last edited by spannermanager; February 1st 2011 at 14:31.
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