Bugged Build Thread

[Bugged]

Thanks Cook, I'm really trying to make some moves on the car after being a bit stagnant for a while. Going to pull the trigger on a DTM cooling system soon if I hear back from Raby on the forums that my engine in fact can run the system.

Another note, I have a very slow leak from the drain plug of my 911 transmission. A drop develops on the bottom of the transmission over a period of a couple days. Any suggestions as to remedy this? Let it sit? Supposedly they don't usually leak since trans fluid is so dense.

[cookvw]

I'd try Teflon tape to see if that helps.

[NO_H2O]

Drain, clean/degrease both surfaces, locktite 518 to the treads and fill-er-up.

[wrenchnride247]

Teflon tape is best used on household plumbing Liquid thread sealers are the way to go in automotive apps.

[Bugged]

Just ordered a V2 DTM kit from Jake Raby! Now I just have to wait... That's ok because I have a ton to get down before then anyway.

Opinions on external oil coolers with electric fan? Placement?

[Bugged]

Also, my motor was built, bench dyno'd and initial break in, and then it sat in an airconditioned garage for 15 years. It was turned over a couple times a year. It was recommended to me that I replace the valve springs in case they have "dead spots" in them from sitting in one position for so long.

Is this recommended? Necessary?

What other things should I be thinking about before I start this engine? Before I install the cooling shroud?

[NO_H2O]

I would not replace the valve springs. You did turn it a couple times a year. I would turn it over with the spark plugs out until you indicate oil pressure. Maybe repeat that a coupe times. Then start it and run it up to 2500 rpm for 10-15 minutes. Make sure you use an oil with the proper ZZDP levels.

[Bugged]

How do I know what the right zddp levels are? I was reading that zddp over 1200ppm can be damaging to the cam, causing spalling. I also read that higher performance motors who change the oil regularly after each event often use higher zddp level due to the increased pressures of higher spring rates.

Any suggestion on a good oil to do an initial re-break in? Should I break it in, drain the oil, and change oils? What do people commonly use, for break in and for normal use?

Also, would it not be a good safety measure to just replace the valve springs? Wouldn't the potential consequences of having a bad valve be valve float which could cause catastrophic damage? How difficult is it to replace the springs? Are there other things to adjust once the valve springs are replaced?

This car has been a learning experience for me the entire time, and these forums have provided invaluable help. The engine is the final frontier for me and I know I have a LOT to learn. I appreciate all the help everyone has given me this far!

-Zach

[Bogara_ZO]

I'm also interested in this zddp thing. Is it necessary just for the brake-in period or always onwards?

[NO_H2O]

Good reading on oil. http://http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
1200 ppm is a good guideline for the minimum ZDDP level to use in a flat tappet engine.

[Bugged]

I rebuilt my Super Beetle steering box today.



Ordered new seals online. If anyone is wondering, the super beetle steering box oil seals are made by Federal Mogul, National Oil Seals. The sizes are listed below both in metric and american. You can search for them using the metric sizing. You can also get them from SKF at NAPA but you will need the part number.

28x40x7 (1.102"x1.575"x.276")

18x30x7 (.709"x1.181"x.276")



I filled the box up with transmission oil, Swepco 201, and so far no leaks.

I still can't remove all the play from the box. The tolerances seem to get tighter when the steering is dead center. So when the pitman arm is all the way left or right, there is play, but as you approach center, the play disappears. I inspected the worm gear and roller and they seemed in pretty good condition. There is no axial play in either of the shafts. I was wondering if this was a design in the gear box so that there is no play in the steering wheel when driving straight. Per the Bentley manual you are supposed to adjust the "worm to roller" lash when the wheels are turned at a 45 degree angle. If I adjust the lash so there is no play in the pitman arm at 45 degrees, the gear box locks up as it approaches center and I can't turn it. It is apparently supposed to be smooth throughout the rotation with no play in the pitman arm.

[Bruce.]

Originally Posted by Bugged

I rebuilt my Super Beetle steering box today.
I still can't remove all the play from the box. The tolerances seem to get tighter when the steering is dead center. So when the pitman arm is all the way left or right, there is play, but as you approach center, the play disappears. I inspected the worm gear and roller and they seemed in pretty good condition. .

The 356 experts say to set up the steering box and steering arms so that the box is precisely centred at straight ahead as there is minimal play at that point. As you move away from dead ahead the play is more but less important.

[Humble]

Important note on gauges: if you are going fuel injected and have an ecu with a serial or can output, you might want to consider a digital dash instead. I spent ove $1200 in autometer electric gauges and senders, as well as a dual cyl. head temp gauge. I could have saved $350 or so and gone with a programable dash from racetechnologies, or racepak.

I'll be ditching my autometer gauges in the race bug and going with a programmable dash for the new motor.

fwiw, here's the gauges I run
5" tach, 5" speedo, 2 5/8" fuel, ego (wideband), boost 30 psi, oil temp, oil pressure, and dual cht on #2 and #3

[spannermanager]

Originally Posted by Humble

I'll be ditching my autometer gauges in the race bug and going with a programmable dash for the new motor.

Sense will out, but i see the weight saving advantage, high weight too, so a handling plus.

[Bugged]

Originally Posted by spannermanager

sense will out, but i see the weight saving advantage, high weight too, so a handling plus.

huh?