#1
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lifting maxx struts on car
trying to figure out a way to adjust my maxx struts without removing them, I guess some small spring compressors would do the trick but does anyone have any other tricks, need to lift the left side 1 notch.
I wish i didn't have to because I love the stance but the left front tire rubs |
#2
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Might try this iff you can facricate one.
http://www.germanlook.net/forums/showthread.php?t=10584
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NO_H2O 72 1302 Smack Black GL 73 Bus (2L CIS Powered) 66 Beetle, 73 Standard Beetle 72 Pinzgauer 710M Volksport Kafer Gruppe |
#3
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I figured out a shortcut! with zip ties!
carefully lift the car up by the lower control arm enough to take the wheel off, then lift it until you can get a jack stand under the solid part of the car. Then put zip ties around the springs and tighten them up. Use the big beefy zip ties and put 3 - 4 on the spring. Lower the jack and you should be able to adjust the clips. once the clip is in position, jack the contol arm back up so the springs rest on the silver supports then cut or loosen the zip ties. Dont cut the ties before lifting the lower control arm so the spring is resting on its supports, otherwise it will shoot out and kill you or something!! |
#4
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Quote:
Those Maxx struts are a poor engineering solution for an adjustable ride height. Everything relies on clamping a piece of wire between the strut body and the bottom spring pan - seating that wire is absolutely crucial. Also, machining a groove out of the strut body weakens it. Either the strut is too thin at each of the grooves or the basic strut body is much too thick. It should however be possible to weld on a threaded sleeve that will both strengthen the strut and make it much easier to adjust for very little money. |
#5
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Simple coil spring compressors such as http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_165469 are very common, cheap, safe and effective.
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#6
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I found that with the maxx strut the spring is short enough that I can loosen the top strut center bolt on both sides, then raise the car up and there is no pressure on the spring, or if there is a small amount you can easily compress it by hand. You have to do both sides at once though so the sway bar lets both sides drop.
Then I'd leave the balljoint connected and just swing the top of the strut passed the fenders and can do spring changes or height adjustments in about half an hour. I've got 2" wider front fenders though so I don't know if that affects the strut being able to clear the fender. When you're done and the chassis on blocks you can raise one side up at a time from the balljoint and guide the strut into the upper mount. I would NOT RECOMMEND this though if you don't know your spring and strut lengths otherwise you might end up in a bad situation! Mike
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1969 VW Bus 2.2L suby - Driving Daily 1302 EJ20 turbo |
#7
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I used very thick zip ties and 5 of them, the maxx springs are pretty soft, the problem with proper spring compressors is that the maxx springs are too small to fit in the groove of most compressors. I do not like the way that the maxx struts adjust either, If they had the maxx extreme struts at the time (threaded adjustment) i would have gotten those. But I don't think they are weak in any way, topline makes good products and I made sure I had the clip seated in the groove and the spring retainer seated around the clip. (yeah not the best or safest method of adjustment but super easy and fast)
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#8
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I agree the zipties is not the safest option but if you use the really heavy duty ones and a minimum of 4 (I'd use more than that) you may away with it.
Quote:
The springs on MaXX struts are far too small in diameter and closely wound for those type to work I got a pair of these and ground them down abit, plus also put a small hole through them so I could saftey wire as well. |
#9
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yeah, I even tried some custom made compressors my friend had and they didn't work even with them off the car (before i put them on to attach the strut tops) we ended up just pushing hard by hand on the spring till I got the bolt started
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