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  #1  
Old February 11th 2012, 12:41
-Alex- -Alex- is offline
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Yes, it is easiest to use stock TB rubber bushing as a seal, but i dont think it needs any more support.

I plan to make M10 bolt holes small as possible, maybe 10,2 or 10,5mm, so there would be less slop.

Also if making from 7075 T6, whole system can be little slimmer, due to the strength of the 7075.


How much should there be distance from the housing cover inner surface to arm attachment surface? Springplate is 4mm thick, maybe this is about 5mm?


One my finnish vw fellow said that these uniball systems would last longer, if at the inner pivot would have bronze bushing or bearing instead of rubber / urethane bushing, but wonder how rough the ride would be then

Last edited by -Alex-; February 11th 2012 at 12:50.
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  #2  
Old February 12th 2012, 21:38
randyj randyj is offline
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Would you be able to use the torsion bars with your set up?

Randy
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  #3  
Old February 12th 2012, 22:58
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Would you be able to use the torsion bars with your set up?

Randy
Nope.

The whole point of these items are to create a pivot when eliminating the Torsion Bars.

-Dave
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  #4  
Old March 2nd 2012, 12:12
Turbonutta Turbonutta is offline
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Alex they look awesome out of interest what the shipping cost to uk PM me if you like, many thanks
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  #5  
Old March 3rd 2012, 17:15
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  #6  
Old April 5th 2012, 14:34
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This kit is specially made for volksmeister, feels kinda tougher than remmele one, but actually lighter because its fully made out of 7075 aluminum.





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  #7  
Old April 5th 2012, 14:36
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Very nice!
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  #8  
Old April 13th 2012, 02:59
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Second set i am making for 944 aluarms. SInce making these from 7075, it can be made little slimmer and lighter than using 6082/S355 materials.



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  #9  
Old June 17th 2012, 20:43
Turbonutta Turbonutta is offline
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these lookin real nice Alex ,can i ask what limits the downward travel (the springplate used to sit in the ledge) or how it could be done..
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  #10  
Old June 18th 2012, 05:12
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There is more travel than with springplates, i dont know much more exactly.
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  #11  
Old June 18th 2012, 05:36
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I think what Turbonutta wanted to know is what is it that fysically limits travel eventually.
My guess is its the end/limit on the damper itself that limits downward travel.
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  #12  
Old June 18th 2012, 13:53
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I think what Turbonutta wanted to know is what is it that fysically limits travel eventually.
My guess is its the end/limit on the damper itself that limits downward travel.
If this is the case...its going to void the warranty on any commercially produced damper out there. I'm not aware of any company that doesn't require external limits for both upwards and downward travel.

For my car, to keep the QA1 warranty I have the stock bumpstops in place for upward travel, and installed limiting straps for downward travel. I'll try and snag some photos of my setup the next time it's up on stands. The limiting straps for suspension drop were a fairly significant puzzle to sort out!

Anyone looking at uniball setups should be aware that the car doesn't need to take air for full droop to occur, and with it possible damage to the damper. This is an issue for _all_ uniball options, since the stock downward limiter is eliminated.

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  #13  
Old June 18th 2012, 14:21
Turbonutta Turbonutta is offline
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yes wally you are correct i wanted to no what limited the downward travel, maybe a limiting strap or simular could work, is the shock strong enough to limit travel, i know its only going to its limit when on a jack or going over a hump

im still trying to decide if i want/need a set of these as im still fitting my alloy arms
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  #14  
Old June 20th 2012, 07:31
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Yeah, shock limits the downtravel first probably. After it, the uniball joint hits to housing parts. Max safe angle is 65 degrees for joint.


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  #15  
Old June 20th 2012, 07:53
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That doesn't look like a problem at all: the front Mc Pherson struts are limited also by the shock's max downward travel. All other OEM cars also I think? Only inward travel needs an external limit as the whole car then needs to be slowed down. Full downward travel just needs to slow down the weight of the wheel and suspension. The down travel being dampenend by the shock's action anyways, so the 'bump' will be minimal I would think.
Why you think thats a problem or voids warrenties Turbonutta?

Limit straps originated from swing axle gearboxes imo where you didn;t want the suspension going extremely positive on camber ('tucking under the car') which caused lot of accidents back in the days iirc. If the shock isn't overly long, your CV's will cope and there is no problem. Or am I missing s/th?

Last edited by Wally; June 20th 2012 at 07:59.
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