![]() |
#46
|
||||
|
||||
Dimensions for what bits? It's a 3/4" ID spherical bearing with matching housing (from ebay) that was welded in to the 6mm thick plate. The kerscher struts have a 14mm thread, so the bearing needed sleeving down with some 3/4" thick-walled tube drilled through and an angular spacer welded on to the bottom to give a decent area for the top spring hat to sit on...
100mm sounds right for speedbumps (not questioning you there!), good to know about the kerb height though as I do normally hold my breath when going close!
__________________
http://www.ricola.co.uk |
#47
|
||||
|
||||
Idle air control valve return pipe uses cut down standard pipe.
![]() Header tank is from a Vauxhall Corsa/Tigra as it had the right connections. I didn't like the subaru system as it is based on an external overflow tank. An aftermarket one would have been solid aluminium so levels are not so easy to check. I welded on a couple of brackets to the body to support the standard fitting points on the tank ![]() Fill point is accessable when the decklid is open. ![]() The OBP pedal box had no provision for the throttle cable so this is what I came up with. I also made up the cable from a universal kit using the subaru fittings/adjuster on the engine end. It feeds through the standard tube in the chassis tunnel. ![]() VW polo heater matrix/blower fan will be mounted to access panel and will blow in to the existing ducting behind the dash. I will fabricate an intake for the fan so it draws in air from the scuttle grill. ![]()
__________________
http://www.ricola.co.uk |
#48
|
||||
|
||||
Are you happy with that return spring?
__________________
1970 T1 W/MassIVe 2913cc RAT/?EFI? w/direct fire (very soon) and 915 trans ![]() 1962 SC 1776cc SP 944NA brakes, 993 wheels VKG |
#49
|
||||
|
||||
In what way? Don't forget there is a good return spring at the throttle body too and I need to keep space for the brake bias adjuster mechanism above it...
__________________
http://www.ricola.co.uk |
#50
|
||||
|
||||
From the pic it just looks like the spring is at an angle that will cause accelerated wear at the mounting points. But, if you have a good return spring at the throttle body than it wont really matter anyway
![]()
__________________
1970 T1 W/MassIVe 2913cc RAT/?EFI? w/direct fire (very soon) and 915 trans ![]() 1962 SC 1776cc SP 944NA brakes, 993 wheels VKG |
#51
|
||||
|
||||
I thought the body line above the trim didn't look quite right and this is what I found under all the filler! NOS VW 1/4 panels are no longer available so I went down to my local VW breakers, angle grinder in hand!
![]() This is what was left after cutting out all the bodged repairs of the past ![]() Donor section clamped roughly in place, it took a bit of searching to find one this good as it is a common rust area, unfortunately it was balanced on top of another car and was full of suspension parts! ![]()
__________________
http://www.ricola.co.uk |
#52
|
||||
|
||||
Very nicely done resto job on that quarter panel Rich!
That must have costed a lot of time and effort to get to this end result. Points for motivation 4 sure! |
#53
|
||||
|
||||
It's only roughly clamped in place, not even trimmed to fit yet! I have to do some local internal flange repairs first too...
__________________
http://www.ricola.co.uk |
#54
|
||||
|
||||
Could (did) have fooled me
![]() Will you do any further tuning to the engine once everything else is done? You know, bigger turbo and all that ![]() |
#55
|
|||
|
|||
Fantastic build!! Very professional! I really like your solution with the air filter and decklid behind the back seat! Really awesome!
|
#56
|
||||
|
||||
Had a good couple of days on the rear 1/4 panel...
All hidden areas were treated with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80, then painted, weld areas were taken back to fresh metal and Roberlo weld through copper primer used. ![]() Tacked in... ![]() Fully welded... ![]() all welds ground down ![]() couple of coats of Hydrate 80 to protect the fresh metal before I get to paint, it will only need a very small amount of filler at the weld seams.. ![]() ![]() Wally: the plan is to get it all de-bugged with this engine, should be an easy 300bhp with ported bits and pieces and the td05. Then later on up the capacity to a 2.5, either using a 2.5 sti bottom end or maybe getting this closed deck block sleeved to 2.5 for a really strong block, then comes bigger turbo etc etc and maybe 500bhp? Got to make that trans work for its living, lol!
__________________
http://www.ricola.co.uk |
#57
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
![]() |
#58
|
||||
|
||||
Or the other option is an EZ30, (newer model 3l flat 6 subaru) that with a turbo can release a LOT of power, Perrin performance have a very good developmental story, it's only 0.7" longer than the flat 4 so would still fit under the bug's body, worst case I could always shorten the bellhousing!
__________________
http://www.ricola.co.uk |
#59
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Bit more done today, sorted the exhaust tip and modified the rear valance to match. Left cutout was filled with section from old panel. I got the panelbeating hammers out and widened the right cutout to match the 3" exhaust..
__________________
http://www.ricola.co.uk |
#60
|
||||
|
||||
Reminds me of the GT3 RS and Boxter S, I love those dual tailpipes!
![]() ![]() Jason
__________________
If I could just get paid for my sleepless nights.... 1960 VW Bug UBRDUB Walkaround 1st Drag Run Dyno Run Oval Ragster-'57 Rag/'04 Boxster S Last edited by volkdent; April 16th 2010 at 17:38. |
![]() |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|