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  #1  
Old May 20th 2011, 17:50
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aartjan aartjan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilC View Post
Why do you have both? You ought to only need one particularly for a road car? The balance bar set up will give a huge variation in bias on its own.

Clive
Don't they complement one another? With the balance bar you set-up the 'static' distribution and by using the proportioning valve you set-up the 'dynamic' distribution for a different characteristic at higher pressure / deceleration levels. Thus, better enabling you to approach the 'ideal' at given conditions?!

When searching for a reference picture, I found some clear text about it: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...g_valves.shtml
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  #2  
Old May 21st 2011, 14:56
fahrvergnugen fahrvergnugen is offline
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Originally Posted by aartjan View Post
Don't they complement one another? With the balance bar you set-up the 'static' distribution and by using the proportioning valve you set-up the 'dynamic' distribution for a different characteristic at higher pressure / deceleration levels. Thus, better enabling you to approach the 'ideal' at given conditions?!

When searching for a reference picture, I found some clear text about it: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...g_valves.shtml
Thanks Aart-Jan, thats good reading.
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  #3  
Old May 26th 2011, 08:17
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Originally Posted by aartjan View Post
Don't they complement one another? With the balance bar you set-up the 'static' distribution and by using the proportioning valve you set-up the 'dynamic' distribution for a different characteristic at higher pressure / deceleration levels. Thus, better enabling you to approach the 'ideal' at given conditions?!

When searching for a reference picture, I found some clear text about it: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...g_valves.shtml
I don't deny that the two could complimenty each other but I doubt whether many on here have the ability to be able to fine tune the braking characteristics to optimise retardation, hence my reference to road car where the load changes would merit constant fiddling and tinkering in a desparate effort to get the best retardation. I'm a strong advocate of the KISS principle and adding in too many variables and adjustments that are beyond the simple running of a vehicle detracts severly from enjoyment.
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  #4  
Old May 26th 2011, 11:00
70Turbobug 70Turbobug is offline
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Originally Posted by fahrvergnugen View Post
Thanx, I have a bias balancebar that can be adjusted with this cable and I have a 7 stage reduce valve on the back brakes. The correct setting must be there somewhere
If you plan on going to the track regularly,then I´m sure you´ll find the right setting for just about any condition.I have 911 carerra 4-pot monoblocks up front and the 911 discs. In the back I have the standard 944 floating calipers and discs (temporarily).The proportioning valve alone should be enough for my intentions,at least for starters.I also have a 944 master cylinder,but may change it for a better more modern master cylinder.
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Old May 26th 2011, 14:31
fahrvergnugen fahrvergnugen is offline
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If you plan on going to the track regularly,then I´m sure you´ll find the right setting for just about any condition.I have 911 carerra 4-pot monoblocks up front and the 911 discs. In the back I have the standard 944 floating calipers and discs (temporarily).The proportioning valve alone should be enough for my intentions,at least for starters.I also have a 944 master cylinder,but may change it for a better more modern master cylinder.
It's gonna be used on road, track and 1/4 mile. if I am not sure about the settings I still have the option to set the valve wide open.

Paul.
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  #6  
Old May 28th 2011, 15:50
fahrvergnugen fahrvergnugen is offline
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Did some sway-bar work today
Welded the new sway-bar brackets to the upper front axle tube, narrowed the tube to the chassis head width and closed the end of the tube, this way I have some strenght in the brackets and still have the original body mounts.



Test with 90deg. turned uniball.


The 90deg. turned uniball works great, so I made a new bracket (needs some more welding).



Put the grommet in and did a new test. The movement I can make without hitting anything is much bigger as the movement the shockabsorber can make.



Paul.
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Old July 6th 2011, 04:10
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Hey,

How is it going?
any news?

Stevo
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Old July 6th 2011, 06:18
fahrvergnugen fahrvergnugen is offline
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Hey,

How is it going?
any news?

Stevo
Hi Steve,

I am very buisy wright now drilling all the spotweld of the donor car, no pictures yet. Als had a very cool weekend at EBI #4.

Paul.
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  #9  
Old July 9th 2011, 16:33
fahrvergnugen fahrvergnugen is offline
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The EBI Chimay weekend was superb, but now it is oval time again.
Al the old repairs are cut out of the donor front and today I started cleaning the underside of it.

This is a very good piece of German metal.



Paul.
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  #10  
Old July 16th 2011, 10:07
fahrvergnugen fahrvergnugen is offline
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Finally did something visible again.

Complete parafan removed.


Took a wile to find the currage, but it had to be done.


Both doorpillars removed :shock: :shock:



Paul.
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  #11  
Old July 20th 2011, 15:14
fahrvergnugen fahrvergnugen is offline
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a few holes.
Looked at an original , never welded body and then circled all the original holes. The rest has to be welded.


How it should be.


After storage for many years, this all original (only the exhaust cutouts are not original), rust free and never welded oval is my workshop neighbor. now i can check it if I need to know how things should be. (i am not aloud to touch it ;D)


Paul.
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  #12  
Old August 28th 2011, 13:08
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nice
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  #13  
Old September 7th 2011, 15:37
fahrvergnugen fahrvergnugen is offline
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Getting close 8)



Paul.
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  #14  
Old September 8th 2011, 11:48
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My hat is off to you. Lots of metal work going into this one.
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  #15  
Old September 8th 2011, 13:31
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Really nice (and quick too)

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