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#1
September 1st 2009, 11:51
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Haha, tell me about it. True Volk, the car is fairly light even as it is now. When I moved it this weekend the car rolled on the trailer with no problems whatsoever.
I've decided I'm going to make a cowl induction hood. Possibly even get a 2" air filter to replace the 3". I don't want to cowl too high. I'm sure it'll all work out. Good new is I'm not going to raise the body and it will stay as is. Here's some pics from the move.      Here's a couple pics of us moving it and securing her down. That's my old man, the bald guy is my half uncle, and the boy is his son. 
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#2
September 17th 2009, 17:25
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Thanks. I'm learning as I go and work on it when I can.
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#3
September 28th 2009, 10:47
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Quick update.
I have been working on the cage all week. Everyday for a couple hours at a time and I'm almost finished. I just have to cut and fit the side / door bars. I've had a slight change of heart. I decided to just go ahead and weld the cage and body to the frame and to do away with the idea of being able to unbolt the body and cage so I can lift it off, whenever. Although I'm sure this cage is for a standard beetle, the cage fit pretty well. I wish I could have the dash bar closer to the dash / further away from the steering wheel, but there is plenty of clearance although it doesn't appear to be that way in the pic.  The roof hoop fit up pretty snug to the roof.   The plates did come in handy though. I was able to weld the lateral bar a little further out. Right about a 3/16 gusset I had welded in for strength.   I should have the cage finished and all welded up by the end of the week. On a side note, my hardened sprag and spring compressor tool came in. I'll finish tearing down the transmission after I'm finished with the cage so I'm not getting junk in it. More to come soon.
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#4
September 29th 2009, 00:24
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Great progress so far. do you have any specs on the cage. were did you buy it from? Outside diameter of the tubing? wall thickness? and type of material d.o.m. or chromoly that sort of thing. I'm planning a cage for my car right now and the outside diameter of your cage tubing looks right on. i dont want something to thick. thanks -John
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#5
September 29th 2009, 16:52
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Quote:
The cage is from S&W Race Cars. Here's a link to the cage. http://www.swracecars.com/store/10-P...8=11-5550.aspx The cage is 1-5/8 x .134" wall EWS Mild Steel tubing. It's $249.99 and shipping was just under $100. I was happy the shipping was as cheap as it was.
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#6
September 30th 2009, 03:52
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kool thanks alot
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#7
October 5th 2009, 10:53
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I finished the cage this weekend. I still need to weld in the seat belt tabs but that'll have to come later. I might do a couple gussets too for strength. Still debating that one.
I did have to cut out a section of the b-pillar and the roof to fully weld up the cage. So I'll have to weld those sections back in. Work, work, work, but fun nonetheless.        I'm working on tearing the tranny down and I'm hoping to have it rebuilt within the next two weeks. Also, I need to work on making mounts for the radiator.
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#9
October 6th 2009, 13:04
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Quote:
 thanks. Yeah, I think the grey primer makes it look beefier. Gotta have that NHRA approved cage ready just incase I decided I want this thing to run 9's one day. 
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#10
October 20th 2009, 12:51
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Small update. I didn't get as much time to work on the bug as I thought I would this weekend.
My low mount alternator bracket came in and seems it wont work either. The steering box is in the way. I'm not sure what my options are now for an alt bracket. I might just have to make one. My radiator and fan came in so I started mocking it up to see if I can get it up front. I trimmed more of the front clip sheet metal away and squeezed it in, so to speak.   As you can see it goes in, but I don't think I'll have room to close the hood unless the radiator is sticking out the bottom by about 3". Even a little more so than in the picture. Also, from the looks of it, another problem is there's not enough room to squeeze in the electric fan. I'm going to see what I can do the make it work, but it's looking like it would be best and easier to set up the radiator in the back. Any thoughts, suggestions?
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#12
October 21st 2009, 12:09
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Quote:
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#13
October 21st 2009, 12:09
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Did a little work last night. Mainly mocking up trying to figure things out which hopefully you guys can help.
I mounted the fan to the radiator. Do you think I'll need a shroud if I'll have a duct drawing air from under the car? See duct explanation below.   I picked up a manual rack from Matt, whom is building a V8 bug out of a S10 chassis believe it or not, and I'm going to see if I can't make it work. Seems like it might. Cross your fingers. Thanks, Matt!  With the steering box out of the way, in hopes the rack works out, I had enough room to mount my alternator with the low mount bracket I recently bought. High five!  Next, I mocked up the placement of the radiator out back. I'd like to mount it like the last picture, on an incline, so I can make the duct work better, I think. Also, what do you guys think about mounting it inclined and having an inline radiator filler neck in the engine compartment close by the top water neck that comes from the intake? Like the one pictured below. Do you think that would create any problems just keeping the rear cap on and filling the radiator using the inline neck? If I mount it at angle it'll be hard to access the radiator filler neck. If worse comes to worse I'll mount it like the other picture.    The duct work will look like this, somewhat. Less boxy looking though.  All thoughts and opinions are welcome.
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#15
October 21st 2009, 14:39
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The rad in the rear with a duct does have two major advantages as I see it:
1) It distributes a reasonable amount of weight to the rear to offset the lump in the front 2) With the duct and fan that will have to run almost constantly although I would still use a 'stat, you are creating a makeshift diffuser that will help with the down force on the rear. Clive
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