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  #76  
Old January 27th 2006, 17:25
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BigPhattyVW BigPhattyVW is offline
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Hey Bruce!

You should make an article about how to adjust the rear camber, like in your previous posts here, and have it posted in Germanlook.com technical section!! I think it would be a great addition because when the rest of us (me) get our wide rear wheels, we can just point and click in the Tech Articles instead of searching through the forums!

Thanks for the great info everybody!!
Clint
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  #77  
Old January 27th 2006, 21:16
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This has been a good read and helpful.I am in the middle of this dilema at the moment.I have done an IRS conversion on my pan using jigs I made years back,and have used on 2 previous conversions with no issues.This time I have also done a major mod on the pan-cut the frame horns off and moved them out 50mm each side,to fit in an auto trans from a Type3.When I got it all back together,I had serious neg camber issues,so pulled it all apart and rechecked everything to see if there was distortion of anything because of all the welding.I suspected the outer ends of the torsion bar tubes may have pulled up,but using a straight edge across the outer body attaching spots and measuring the difference between the 2 pans at the centre of the tube-the auto pan was 0.5mm different-so that's not the problem.I put it all back together and tried moving the adjustment of the 3 bolts,and got it slightly better,so it looks like the small die grinder is going to get a work out.I did spend some serious time thinking about making the inner pivots adjustable,a bit of work,but would be easier on this one because the inner threaded bits are now exposed on my pan.
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  #78  
Old February 6th 2006, 16:09
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MattKab MattKab is offline
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IRS camber adjustment is made simple by installing the Kerscher rear anti-roll bar bolts.

A spanner (open ended wrench) is used on a hex bolt to make the adjustment.

I can't find a picture of the bolt so I will try to discribe it..

The forwardmost springplate bolt is substituted. The hole in the springplate is enlarged to a circle that is the same diameter as the first shoulder. The new bolt then rotates in the sprigplate. The 2nd shoulder is eccentric and 12mm, threaded to take a lock-nut to secure the TA from the outside. The head of the bolt is in the middle The other side of the same bolt is shouldered 10mm and locates the anti-roll bar drop-link. Offers +ve to -ve camber adjustment. Has zero effect on toe adjustment. Very trick.



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Last edited by MattKab; February 6th 2006 at 16:15.
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  #79  
Old February 6th 2006, 23:46
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That bolt sounds like the ones on my '87 944 springplate setup. I can take a picture on and off the car if someone needs to see it.
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  #80  
Old March 22nd 2006, 18:58
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hello i need help , i have dropped my irs back end by 1 spline and fitted a set of 1.5" lowered spring plates , the camber was -ve3" i followed the instructions and ovaled the holes in the rear of the spring plates using this method i have -ve 1.5 degree's of camber ,i would like -ve 1.0 degrees as am running 255 rear tires , because i have rotated the rear of the arms up in relation to the springplates the the a arms are catching the top of the spring plate just behind the top hole , this has left me with 1mm of toe in 1\2 mm each side i would like another couple of mm , i do not want to cut anymore material behind this top hole as there is not a lot there to start with and with filing the holes oval there is even less , any help or advice will be welcome or am i making a fundamental error with the method of changing the camber ,
cheers jon
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  #81  
Old May 4th 2006, 14:40
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Hebster52 Hebster52 is offline
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I just wanted to ask if it acctually works to file up the holes and twist the trailingarm in the suspensionplate? I mean doesn't it twist the inner bushing out of line then so it wear out in no time?

Anyone who has done this and proved it to work?
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  #82  
Old May 5th 2006, 02:23
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Hebster52 Hebster52 is offline
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Ok. Here is the deal... I did some theoretical pictures.

When the suspension is lowered the alignment of the torsionarm and trailingarm gets offset as on picture 1. This would mean that the trailingarms should be angled as stated earlier.



The best option would in my oppinion be to lift/turn the inner TA mount in proportion to the wanted lowering. In other words keeping the inner TA aligned to the torsionarm. (picture 2)



Opinions? Comments?
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  #83  
Old May 5th 2006, 04:33
Bruce2 Bruce2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hebster52
I just wanted to ask if it acctually works to file up the holes and twist the trailingarm in the suspensionplate? I mean doesn't it twist the inner bushing out of line then so it wear out in no time?

Anyone who has done this and proved it to work?
This adjustment is exactly how Porsche adjusts camber on the 944, so yes it has been proven to work.

I've never heard of anyone who's worn out the inner pivot. When I used to modify stock Beetle TAs, the final step was powdercoating. This meant the inner bushings had to come out. Every one I removed was in perfect condition.
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  #84  
Old May 5th 2006, 07:43
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Hebster52 Hebster52 is offline
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Thanks Bruce!
I definitly will have to look into the tech regarding this when I start fitting in the 944 trailingarms on my T-34 this summer.

However the rear frame have been swapped from the swing to IRS (T-3 versions without the gearboxhorns) and the torsionarms(plates) on it is the double version... I've heard that those were a 1969 one year only feature I wonder if I would benefit in using the single 1303 torsionplates instead that I have in the back on my garage?
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  #85  
Old May 9th 2006, 03:42
Bruce2 Bruce2 is offline
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All IRS Type 3s used the double spring plates, while Beetles went to singles in 71. I guess they thought the extra weight of a T3 warranted it. They were wrong. This has been proven by looking at a stock 944 that has single spring plates.

Instead of using Beetle spring plates, use stock 944 adjustable spring plates. Then you can use the camber adjustment Porsche designed. I adapted the 944 spring plates into my Beetle without the camber adjustment.

Single spring plates weigh less.
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  #86  
Old May 9th 2006, 04:08
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Hebster52 Hebster52 is offline
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I'll see which springplates I'll use. I dont have any 944 springplates so it will be either the double T-3's or the 1303's

The T-3's have the same hole pattern as these 944's



The only difference is the height adjustment and the middle hole (the one with the vertical arrows). On the T-3's that hole is only adjustable horisontally. The 1303's doesn't seem to have that hole at all..
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  #87  
Old May 12th 2006, 14:39
G-force G-force is offline
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Moving the inner pivot bolt for the trailing arm upward raises the roll centre upwards considerably, so the car may handle more like a swing-axle bug if you did that.

May also have a strange effect on the rear toe curve. i.e. Lots of toe change on bumps, and excessive toe-in induced by body roll when cornering. Likewise, straight line stability would probably suffer for the same reasons (ie wind buffeting causing more rear end steering).

Hebster, considering you don't have the frame horns in the way, it may be easier for you to fit the 911 rear suspension onto your type3.
Would move the rear wheels back 57mm but give a smoother & more predictable ride. Plus you'd get the 911 brakes too.
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