GermanLook Forums  

Go Back   GermanLook Forums > General > Project Builds

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #16  
Old November 12th 2010, 00:03
Bugged Bugged is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 126
I finally looked up the VIN to my 911 transmission... turns out i have a 1969-1970 911 transmission from a porsche 911E.

R&P ---- 7:31 (4.429)
1st ----- 11:34 (3.091)
2nd----- 18:32 (1.778)
3rd ----- 23:28 (1.217)
4rd ----- 27:25 (0.9259)
5th ----- 29:22 (0.7586)

What do I have going here? I don't really know what to make of these gear ratios. Could someone help me out?


Also, I drained the gear oil from it a few days ago and checked out the magnetic drain plug, it had a good amount of gunky black oil stuff, but only one or two little metal flakes. The transmission had been stored for probably 20 years in a garage. Can anyone give me an estimate of what condition you think it may be in?

Also, the transmission has the eyelet for the clutch cable, and Alex from Bug@5speed says that I need to cut the eyelet off and then plug it with an automotive plug. Is this what everyone is doing? Man, I really don't want to cut a hole in the side of this transmission.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old November 12th 2010, 00:21
Bug@5speed(US)'s Avatar
Bug@5speed(US) Bug@5speed(US) is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 513
The back half from intermediate plate to bell housing are the same for 914 family and the late 901 box,
Except for material mag bs alu. Depending on Year

The bellhousing has two flat spot where the trans mount gets bolted on.

No need to grind flat just drill four holes for your mounts and attach this to the metal traverse

If I don't make sense email me and we can set up phone con

VR
Alex
__________________
Alex Olaverri
Sales Associate for Bug@5-Speed (US)
Email: Bugat5speed@yahoo.com
Tele: 973 204-5463
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old November 21st 2010, 01:12
Bugged Bugged is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 126
Speedo gear is out, reverse shaft transferred, andshort nose cone is basically on... set the tranny on the frame horns... Am I going to have to take a contoured cut out of the frame horns for the cv flanges to fit? I see some people just trimming the horns and others making considerable modification to the horns. Also, the bowden cable eyelet is definately interfering with the frame horns as well. this will need to be cut off... It needs to be plugged afterwards or can I just trim it off?
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old December 12th 2010, 01:48
Bugged Bugged is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 126
What is the best way to remove the factory tar board?

and.....


Got some work done on the pan... I originally wasn't going to POR15 the panhead and center tunnel, but some stripper found its way over there anyway.

I used the POR15 products, marine clean and metal ready.

Metal ready is supposed to neutralize the rust and I can just POR15 over it.

Would it be better to grind the rust off?
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old December 12th 2010, 06:03
ricola's Avatar
ricola ricola is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Warwick, UK
Posts: 1,137
With POR, the coarser the surface the better, too smooth and it peels off. As long as the rust is not flaking and is just surface then I'd leave it as that gives the best key.
__________________
http://www.ricola.co.uk
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old December 12th 2010, 23:56
wrenchnride247's Avatar
wrenchnride247 wrenchnride247 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Cleveland,TN
Posts: 1,272
The tar board material comes off easy with a heat gun and scraper.
__________________
1970 T1 W/MassIVe 2913cc RAT/?EFI? w/direct fire (very soon) and 915 trans

1962 SC 1776cc SP 944NA brakes, 993 wheels

VKG
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old December 15th 2010, 20:11
Bugged Bugged is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 126
Thanks... Tar board is now removed.

I'm starting prepping the trans for install and have a few questions.

1) How are you dealing with the bowden tube eyelet on the differential side plate? I have the bug@5speed adapter plate, but it requires cutting the eyelet off and plugging the resulting hole off. Any ways around cutting the eyelet off?
2) I don't see why cutting the eyelet off will result in a hole? Isn't it solid metal beneath the eyelet?
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old December 15th 2010, 20:23
Bugged Bugged is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 126
I'm going to start getting the trans ready for installation now, but I have some concerns:

1) Side plate bowden eyelet
-I have the bug@5speed adapter plate, but it apparently requires removal of the eyelet which results in a hole in your side plate. I don't see why cutting the eyelet off yields a hole through the plate, is the eyelet not solid aluminum? Any other good bowden cable/bracket routing methods out there?
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old December 16th 2010, 11:10
Bug@5speed(US)'s Avatar
Bug@5speed(US) Bug@5speed(US) is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 513
Bugged,

Drop me a line to my email, seems we have some confusion..

Also email me some pics so I know exactly what we will be discussing

Missed this tread, during my wife's hospitol visit..

VR
Alex
__________________
Alex Olaverri
Sales Associate for Bug@5-Speed (US)
Email: Bugat5speed@yahoo.com
Tele: 973 204-5463
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old December 25th 2010, 20:08
Bugged Bugged is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 126
I'm thinking about buying these, but want to make sure they are the right size.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsc...Q5fAccessories

I have the bug@5speed flanges and will locate some 944 stub axles. Anything wrong with this set up? any suggestions? Do these look like they are in good condition? I was also going to go check out this big recyclery to find my 944 parts.
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old January 4th 2011, 14:32
Bugged Bugged is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 126
I'm trying to find that page that describes all the differences between cv's, stub axles, and flanges again. I seemingly lost it, can someone help me?
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old January 4th 2011, 22:50
wrenchnride247's Avatar
wrenchnride247 wrenchnride247 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Cleveland,TN
Posts: 1,272
http://www.blindchickenracing.com/Ho...es_and_cvs.htm

on the left side of screen has CV joints, axles, ans stub axles. Click on the one you want to view.
__________________
1970 T1 W/MassIVe 2913cc RAT/?EFI? w/direct fire (very soon) and 915 trans

1962 SC 1776cc SP 944NA brakes, 993 wheels

VKG
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old January 5th 2011, 03:00
Bugged Bugged is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 126
merci beaucoup! I bought my axles from a local porsche recyclery. Got both stub axles, inner and outer cv's, and half shafts today, in great condition for $200. I thought it was a pretty decent deal, and they come with a 4 month warranty. Yay progress!! Now to finish that damn pan!
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old February 5th 2011, 18:28
Bugged Bugged is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 126
Any suggestions on which trans mounts to use? I have heard the OEM are stronger, but the urethane ones have the cutout which would require much less grinding. I feel a bit uncomfortable grinding off the extra material around the engine bolt holes.



Also, has anyone dealt with a trans with this tab on it? What was it originally used for? Suggestions on removal?



Thanks!
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old January 21st 2012, 23:18
Bugged Bugged is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 126
Ok... wow it has been almost a year since the last time i posted on here... crap. I think I'd rather post pics, and you can just ask me about them if you want to.

I am getting ready to disassemble all everything in order to have the chassis blasted and powdercoated. I imagine I need to get some cork plugs to plug all the holes I don't want filled with powdercoat. I am going to remove the torsion bars and the torsion beam face plate. How should I go about sealing the inside of the torsion beam? Any tips would be awesome.











My Daily



My Doggy



Hopefully once the chassis is powder coated, I will begin assembling the car. I am moving in 4 months and I need to at least have the vast majority of the car bolted together so I can move it onto a tow truck. Let me know what you think.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 16:42.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
© www.GermanLook.net 2002-2017. All Rights Reserved