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  #31  
Old January 21st 2012, 23:53
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The company doing the blasting doing the coating too?
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1970 T1 W/MassIVe 2913cc RAT/?EFI? w/direct fire (very soon) and 915 trans

1962 SC 1776cc SP 944NA brakes, 993 wheels

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  #32  
Old January 22nd 2012, 13:30
Bugged Bugged is offline
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Yes, I was quoted about 350 bucks to blast and powder coat it. Why?
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  #33  
Old January 23rd 2012, 22:13
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They should have the propper masking materials to protect what you do not want filled with blast media or powder coating material. Mark the areas to be protected. The best way is to be there when they get ready to blast and coat to show them what you want. Main area is the torsion housing of course.
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1970 T1 W/MassIVe 2913cc RAT/?EFI? w/direct fire (very soon) and 915 trans

1962 SC 1776cc SP 944NA brakes, 993 wheels

VKG
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  #34  
Old January 26th 2012, 14:07
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So I am hopefully going to drop off the chassis, trailing arms, outer torsion plate, and some random bits at the powdercoaters tomorrow or Saturday. What color should I go with?!! Silver? Black? Something dope?? GOLD?!

After that I'm going to get ready to put the body back on. Any things I should remember to do before I put the body on? The body to pan seal obviously. Run the brake lines in the rear? I shouldn't have any clearance problems with the transmission.

I want to put on a Kafer cup brace. Where should I source this in America? Should I install before the body is on?

Thx
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  #35  
Old January 26th 2012, 14:30
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Lanner at vdubengineering has the best Kafer cup brace kit I have used. It is a pain but I lie to put them in after the body, engine/trans are installed so you can work around ant clearance issues.
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  #36  
Old January 26th 2012, 16:49
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Interesting, I don't see it on the website.
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  #37  
Old January 26th 2012, 16:54
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what color is the body going to be any akcents ?

Ya Call Lanner his Kafer Bars ROCK..

Chris.
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  #38  
Old January 26th 2012, 17:41
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I think the body is going to be red for a while at least. Maybe going to paint it one day to a silver, gunmetal, or black color.
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  #39  
Old January 27th 2012, 01:51
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it would Look Good in Gunmetal even with the red on top... and then when you do paint it it will Still match.

here's his # it's best
http://vdubengineering.com/contact/

Chris.
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  #40  
Old February 19th 2012, 00:46
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OK now some progress

The chassis is at the powdercoaters, and I should get it back late this week. In the meantime I have been taking apart the body even more. I stripped out the wiring harness as I'm going to be replacing it anyway. Too many random wires going who knows where.

Still contemplating how I am going to seal this off. May grind a bit off and weld/JBweld a circular ring to fit a boot of some sort.


Made this nice little bracket to seal up the holes I cut to move the bowden tube and accelerator tube.


I noticed this crack under the gas tank, I am pretty sure it is just the old sealant that is cracked... I don't think it is structurally compromised. What do you think?




Making car noises.


I made a cart to roll the body around on while im getting it ready to put back on the chassis. I can adjust the height with pins.



Last edited by Bugged; December 25th 2014 at 11:42.
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  #41  
Old February 19th 2012, 01:53
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I used a balljoint boot for mine.



-Dave
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  #42  
Old March 16th 2012, 01:33
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Moar updates

Got the chassis back from strippers/powdercoaters and it looks really nice. They plugged up all the threaded holes and the torsion housing so I don't need to tap anything or grind any powdercoat away. Getting ready to get the seals glued on and the holes punched in em.



So I wanted to see how bad that bubbling paint really was... I kind of wish I hadn't. Stuck an exacto knife into the rust. I've decided I'm going to have the entire body media blasted. There is a local company that specializes in blasting bodies using a copper shot medium. I'm dreading finding out the magnitude of decay on this body. Heater channels and lower half seems solid, but who knows. Any tips or links to rust repair that anyone can recommend would be great. There aren't panels for the section right below the rear window, so I'm leaning towards neutralizing the rust with a chemical, grinding the majority of it away and then repairing it with the correct type of filler... not just bondo everything. Large rust spots will be cut out and replaced with sheet metal. I'm hoping it is only small holes that need patching.




So, this motor was originally set up with the FAT shroud. The breather tower was machined down accordingly. I am planning on running DTM V2 cooling system. I am wondering if I am going to run into problems because the tower was machined? Since I am getting ready to pull the trigger on a cooling system, I wanna ask. Should I go with the DTM? I know the numbers say so, but a lot of people on here still run the 911 shroud. Being in the states, I don't really have access to the Rolf shroud. Seemingly the only good aspect of a 911 shroud (Sharpbuilt, FAT, Bergmann, etc) is that they look cool. This just doesn't justify it to me... but maybe someone else can shed some other perspective.



Just a pic of the inside, fairly clean and rust free.


thinking about all this body work, I have found some inspiration and settled upon a paint color. This car is gorgeous.
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  #43  
Old March 16th 2012, 03:10
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Hi

Not sure about where you are, but down here most earlier 12 volt style bugs don't rust in the lower window area, you might be able to find a clean piece of body metal from a damaged body.

The window size changed in 72 but it got bigger on the top.

Steve
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  #44  
Old March 16th 2012, 08:07
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Your breather tower on the engine looks ok for a DTM. You will have to drill holes for the alternator stand mount and cut off the lug that that bolt is sticking thru so it will clear the apron of the car when you install the engine.
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  #45  
Old March 16th 2012, 14:35
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NO_H20, I got off the phone with RAT enterprises and told them about my breather tower situation. They told me that in order to make the DTM work, I would have to machine a block to regain the height that was machined off. He said that Jake did this once, and vowed to never do it again. Dean, the guy I spoke with did not see the picture of the breather tower so perhaps he envisioned a more severe machining of the tower? I do have access to a machine shop and a 5 axis cnc if needed, but at this point I am a bit fed up with the minuscule details that I need to accomplish to get this damn thing working.

Locally, a shop who does a lot of type 4 conversions has told me they have had success with the bergmann unit. One mechanic in particular told me that he has seen consistent and close CHT between 1&3 and 2&4 with 4 temperature transducers. I'm so torn because I read on here that the bergmann unit is crap and I'll freeze 1&3 and roast 2&4. Then locally they tell me it will work fine, and under full load he never saw the heads rise above 320. Is this really hot, I know Jake considered 300 to be roasting, but I am in the desert, Arizona.

Anyway, thanks for the help.
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