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Old July 28th 2006, 18:15
VW1302RSi VW1302RSi is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Wellington New Zealand
Posts: 29
Hello Jak,

Thanks for the reply


Quote:
Originally Posted by jakriz
I was wondering how u are going with your inlet temps. I'm running a RS Liberty water to air intercooler on my wrx engine. My inlet temps run around 5 - 10 degrees above ambient on the street, on the track I can get them up to 50d which I have been told by many Subaru experts is more than acceptable & I shouldn't worry until I get near 70d inlet temps.
My cars is powered by a 2.52L N/A engine so inlet temps are one of the things I don't have to worry about.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jakriz
Also how are your water temps going as well, I noticed that your inlet & outlets run incredibly close to your sump & exhaust headers. The temps between those are huge.
Your right the temp difference between the exhaust and the coolant pipes is huge. Only the thermostat to rad pipe/hose the runs near the exhaust and I don't see over 85 degC normally on the gauge and when I dynoed it she was just peeking of 90 degC after two hours.
The other thing to remember is lots and I mean lots of vehicle manufactures run coolant pipes near exhaust systems, Its not a problem on my car if it was turboed it may be a different story.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jakriz
I also read about your mod to your thermostat to help bleeding, I actually don't run a thermostat, 2 reasons, 1, it gives the perfect bleed & doesn't allow air pockets around number 4 piston water jacket & 2, I have 16 litres of coolant cooling my engine (standard wrx is 6 litres) I spoke to many guys that had done kombi conversions, some of which had experienced head cracking & warping due to the thermostat opening once warm & letting a huge volume of cold water in to the engine. I just let mine warm up each morning properly & it's been sweet. Just something u may want to think about.
The reason these guys cracked blocks or heads or what ever was due to thermal shock and as they have worked out if you open a thermostat when one side is 30-40 degC hotter than the other side thermal shock can occur and its worse when you run huge coolant volumes.
When you look at my car running from cold as the engine warms up coolant still circulates through the complete cooling system and as the engine warms up to operating temp and the thermostat opens the gauge drops about 5-7 degC I have confirmed this with a temp gun on the coolant pipes, so there is no thermal shock.

Most manufactures have a small hole in the t/stat one of its tasks is to allow the coolant to circulate before the t/stat opens and warm up the cooling system evenly, all I have done is enlarged the hole due to the amount of coolant I’m running.

Again look at big trucks and coaches some of them have over 15L of coolant in the radiator alone and they run thermostats and warm up evenly, why because the circulate enough water thought the radiator etc to allow an even warm up before the thermostat opens.

What sort of temp variances do you get on your gauge between say:
1- Crawling along in rush hour?
2- On the race track?
3- A fast drive on the motorway on a cool night?
I’d love to know.


Not trying to be rude or a know it all but I still can’t figure out the logic in not running a thermostat on a road car.



Just something you may want to think about
Scott
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Scott

1971 2.5L Subaru powered 1302s

http://vw1302rsi.multiply.com/
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