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  #1  
Old April 23rd 2021, 13:37
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The_Lone_Banana The_Lone_Banana is offline
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Cool Another 1302 build......but in Floriduh

I've been lurking on here on off for quite a few years and this is my first post.

So the build is a 72' 1302, I've owned the car for about 6 years now and purchased it as a "basket case" no motor/no trans and not many other parts for $500. Overall it was fairly rust free and many metal bits had been replaced. I always had a vision for the overall car and the direction I wanted to take.
Fast forward to 2020 the COVID thing forced me to start actively working on the beetle. Prior to 2020 I did a few things here and there to get the car running and restored but nothing significant to warrant a build thread.

As of right now the car is on 4 wheels and the build moves on currently at a fairly moderate pace, I am going to post my one year progress up til now and continue on until its "complete" When is any build really complete? During the year with the help of my best friend we have restored the pan's, widened fenders front and rear, shaving many exterior metal bits, built coilovers,Rims, ragtop and procured an engine, trans and many other items and Mods.

I will do my best to document the past year up to now in the order that things happened. Thanks for checking my build out and sit back and wait for the updates to come.


The Photos below is the day we brought "Dumps" home. My daughter named it that day.



and the most current photo....



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  #2  
Old April 23rd 2021, 14:13
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The_Lone_Banana The_Lone_Banana is offline
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Pans

So starting around March 2020 started working on the pans. The pans had already been replaced but just like any car project the minute you start digging into the car you start finding rust and half assed work performed by owners from years past.

Upon separation of the pans from the body, with the help of my brother. I noticed the "napoleon hat" was pretty rotted out and needed replacing. We replaced the metal that needed replacement , stripped, prepped, seam sealed (Not the prettiest for sure, LOL) and painted the pans. The underside was also undercoated.

Once the pans were finished with their new coatings we attached the stock IRS rear arms and an EMPI disc brake kit (plans to change in the future to some 944 hardware) to the rear to check fitment of the Porsche 17x9.5 Twist Wheels(wearing 235/40-17 Yokohoma Advan Flevia Tires) to the pan.
















Last edited by The_Lone_Banana; April 23rd 2021 at 14:20.
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  #3  
Old April 28th 2021, 03:41
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Steve C Steve C is offline
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Nice work. You some other interesting cars by look of it as well
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STI powered 1303 in the works.
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Old May 11th 2021, 12:02
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The_Lone_Banana The_Lone_Banana is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve C View Post
Nice work. You some other interesting cars by look of it as well
Thanks! Its my best friends shop. 65 Sundial Camper, 58 Ragtop Beetle, Binz #196, another friend's doublecab, 72 Chevy Blazer. Couple more cars and trucks outside. Lots of projects LOL
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Old May 11th 2021, 12:17
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The_Lone_Banana The_Lone_Banana is offline
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Updating the post a little with the past years progress. After completing the pans Cleaned the bottom of the body and undercoated, finally bolting the body on, started shaving some vents front and rear, shaving the half moons, antenna hole adding some mirrors side markers and widening the rear fenders 2 inches to accomodate the Porsche Twist 17x7.5 195/40-17 fronts and 17x9.5 235/40-17 rear
























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Old May 11th 2021, 12:24
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The_Lone_Banana The_Lone_Banana is offline
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After coming up with the parts built a set of custom coil overs using QA1 springs, sleeves, a set of Adjust-s-strut lowering housings. At this time the front end was rebuilt with lowered swaybar, camber kit, flip kit, bushings, top mounts, new tie rods and basic empi 5x130 disc brake kit. Looking to upgrade later but at the time it was easier to locate this kit than get the 944 parts.







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Old May 11th 2021, 20:56
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Nice front strut setup. What spring rate are you running?
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Old May 12th 2021, 12:26
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The_Lone_Banana The_Lone_Banana is offline
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Nice front strut setup. What spring rate are you running?
Flat, Gonna try the 10 inch 150 lbs springs right now. If I need to adjust the spring rates the QA1 springs are so relatively cheap it would not be to difficult to change at a later date.
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Old May 12th 2021, 12:29
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150# is probably spot on. I have 115# right now and want to get into 135-150 range. My car is a street car, family hauler so I'm not after track specs.
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  #10  
Old May 17th 2021, 10:18
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The_Lone_Banana The_Lone_Banana is offline
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Small Update, Super Beetle Sunday Funday this weekend, Dissassembled fenders, mirrors, sidemarkers and ragtop from the car and started sanding the paint off the car. Progress is being made, body work to come next and paint soon. first two photos are what we started with and the wide view is right when we finished for the night.





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  #11  
Old May 17th 2021, 17:20
Clatter Clatter is offline
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Right on!
A PBR 16 is always helpful during builds like this.

Thanks for posting up.

How do you plan on getting enough cooling air into the motor compartment?
Stand-offs?
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  #12  
Old May 18th 2021, 11:00
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The_Lone_Banana The_Lone_Banana is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clatter View Post
Right on!
A PBR 16 is always helpful during builds like this.

Thanks for posting up.

How do you plan on getting enough cooling air into the motor compartment?
Stand-offs?
Clatter,
An ice cold PBR tallboy always helps with everything,

Thanks for checking out my post!

I'm not too worried about the motor compartment temps. Should be perfectly adequate. The other deck lid I was gonna run was a 68' solid lid, but chose to create more work for myself by modifying the 72 deck lid, lol. (I never have enough to do, all sarcasm implied) So if anything the two remaining vents on the rear lid should be fine.

The engine cooling comes mostly from using all and proper tins on the motor, so it really should be fine. The carbs getting cool air would be my only concern but that is minimal concern, the rear upper vent on the rear of the body should be enough to get fresh air and evacuate the hot air. If not, I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

I'm running a 1600 based 1995cc dual port, ran beautifully with good temps in an older double cab and those did not have much better ventilation, living in Floriduh it definitely can get warm here. LOL
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