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  #181  
Old July 15th 2009, 17:04
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I just can't see flat cam or intake size causing a motor to blow, where's mechanical timing might have some parts being where they shouldn't be at the wrong time?

Jason
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  #182  
Old July 16th 2009, 13:24
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All the mechanical timing was fine the only thing that could have been off was the distributor body but I can compensate for that with the programmable timing (which is most likely why the advance numbers are so high). The motor didn't really blow so much as it wimpered and said please no more. I really think its just a dropped valve seat and that (fingers crossed) no real damage was done.

If it was a dropped valve seat then I need to rerun the lines for the 1-2 side head temp because I think it may be running hotter than the 3-4 side. So while the 3-4 side was reading 380-390, the 1-2 may have been over 400.
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  #183  
Old July 16th 2009, 13:33
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That might cause a valve seat to move, I hope its nothing major. Why ARE you running a distributor anyways?
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Everyone told me its not a good idea to daily drive an aircooled bug. I agree, if the engine has a distributor and you use cheap engine parts... OR you have an early car without the decklid vents or you neglect to add an oil cooler with fan...
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  #184  
Old July 16th 2009, 16:43
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It's much easier to implement programmable timing via HEI since it just drops in via distributor than fabbing up everything necessary for edis. Also, as I understand it HEI is a more reliable setup than edis from what I found on the MS2 forums.
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  #185  
Old July 16th 2009, 18:38
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check out http://www.boostengineering.net/category_s/22.htm its just about bolt on. Just FYI in case you hadn't heard of it. Brian is a super helpful guy, I think his handle is beanbooger on one of the forums...
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Everyone told me its not a good idea to daily drive an aircooled bug. I agree, if the engine has a distributor and you use cheap engine parts... OR you have an early car without the decklid vents or you neglect to add an oil cooler with fan...
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  #186  
Old July 17th 2009, 02:49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuleinc View Post
check out http://www.boostengineering.net/category_s/22.htm its just about bolt on. Just FYI in case you hadn't heard of it. Brian is a super helpful guy, I think his handle is beanbooger on one of the forums...
Apart from the pulley, you can pick those coils and leads up from the wrecking yard for a tenner or so...
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  #187  
Old July 17th 2009, 15:33
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I know but he mentioned it not being a bolt on affair, and that pulley makes it a bolt on affair... Not sure if many people know about it, just trying to spread the word, I have one, and it was super easy to do.
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Everyone told me its not a good idea to daily drive an aircooled bug. I agree, if the engine has a distributor and you use cheap engine parts... OR you have an early car without the decklid vents or you neglect to add an oil cooler with fan...
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  #188  
Old July 17th 2009, 17:14
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I didn't see it on the website but is there a mount for the vr sensor too? Also depending on where it's mounted it may not work with the serpentine belt pulley systems.
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  #189  
Old July 17th 2009, 18:14
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They don't have a VR sensor mount, but if you can build that car you can take a piece of aluminum make a 90 degree bend, drill some holes in it and mount the VR sensor to it and the aluminum to the fuel pump studs... I don't know if your serpentine belt system has something there, if it does, I believe brian was making a prototype bracket that mounts the sensor to the left of the pulley, maybe email him and ask. I would never use a distributor again on my 1303 after having DIS...
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Everyone told me its not a good idea to daily drive an aircooled bug. I agree, if the engine has a distributor and you use cheap engine parts... OR you have an early car without the decklid vents or you neglect to add an oil cooler with fan...
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  #190  
Old July 22nd 2009, 16:36
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Any 'damage assesment' yet? I am sure your as curieus to get to the bottom of this as I am/we are.

BTW, I had a very nice experience with the WI today and actually saw my EGT drop about 50 degrees Celcius during boost with WI and a tad lower boost where WI is not activated (factory threshold at 0,8 bar boost). I was running 4500-4700 rpm at the time in 5th gear to be able to witness this (tested it just across the border in germany as those rpms in that gear means about 185-190 km/u constantly...)
So what I am trying to say is: if your having temp problems with boost, be sure to use water/meth injection as it really does help a lot!
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  #191  
Old July 22nd 2009, 17:23
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I haven't had a chance to tear into it yet but I haven't been lax either. I got on the phone with Pat Downs to hear his opinion and he mentioned a couple of concerns. First, compression was to low and he recommended bumping it to 8.5:1. Second, flow restrictions due to manifolds and/or cam going flat. I sent my spare block off to have the decks machined down 2mm making the total +5mm over a stock case. That should raise my compression to 8.6:1 but I'll spec the motor during assembly again to make sure.

About the same time the motor went I had a couple hard drives in my home computer go at the same time (2 of the same drive so I'm guessing manufacturing issue). I had a backup of my OS drive but the other died before I could get the data off and that disk had everything on it. All my financials, photos from vacations, all my build up pics, all my mp3's, and all my racing videos. I sent it off to a data recovery service but it'll be about 1K to get everything back.

So the data recovery is eating some of the cash flow that would otherwise go to the motor. Once it's paid for though the heads are up next to be re-worked, then a new set of ported manifolds. I should have some extra cash in August (I can't believe it's almost August :P ) and that will help things move along a bit faster.
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  #192  
Old July 26th 2009, 21:40
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Finally got the motor out and found a lot of good news and some weirdness. I quickly found the source of the noise which turned out to be from the retainer on the rocker shaft backing out. No harm done *big sigh of relief* but where is my lack of power coming from? I kept digging to find 3 out of 4 pistons sooted up with carbon but #1 was clean as a whistle. the 3-4 head was tight as a drum no leaks, but the 1-2 head wasn't as tight and #2 was leaking slightly. Also found the source of a couple persistent oil leaks, the turbo drain pipe (which was loose) and the 3-4 lower head studs. The case sealed up great and there were no seam related leaks. The galley plug in the back of the block had started seeping so I'll have to find a better way to seal it up. Cylinders looked great, bearings looked great and in some places the dry molydisulfide (MoS2) film coating I applied during assembly was still in place. I did find a slight wear pattern in the intake lobe for 1 and 3 and patterns on the lifters for the same but not high enough to feel with a finger nail scrape.

Some bad news now... I went to pick up the spare block on friday only to find a bunch of issues. The order was to deck it by 2mm each side and I confirmed this but they did more. They removed the case savers and drilled out every stud hole. Then they pressed in some kind of insert threaded for a 10mm stud except for the deep stud in #3 which they drilled out but never replaced. On monday the block goes back for a deep stud insert and hopefully I'll find out what the inserts are made of. If worse comes to worse they will have to fill every hole with weld, re-drill, and install new case savers.

Now on to the good stuff...

Here's one of the leak culprits, the threaded pipe for the turbo drain was loose


This is what all of the plugs looked like


the 3-4 head, exhaust valves got toasty


The other big leak I couldn't fix, the 3-4 lower head studs


I'm not sure if it's normal for untreated cylinders to bronze like this


3-4 pistons, lots of carbon


pulled the 1-2 valve cover to find this




Some weirdness here, I think there may have been some fuel starvation here so I'm going to double check the #1 fuel injector




some scoring on the bottom of all the pistons, not sure if that's normal for big bore/stroke combos

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  #193  
Old July 26th 2009, 21:45
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lifters now, you can see the circle patterns in the intake lifters for 1-3








here's the best shots I could get of the cam wear, this pattern is on both sides of the lobe




crank and cam gears got the same dry film coating and you can see the wear patterns in them


Bearings

















Now that's it's apart, I think lack of compression and fuel in #1 were responsible for my low dyno numbers. Once I get the spare case back I'll build the motor back up but I don't know if the cam is fine or not. Also now would be the time to grab a better cam since the case is split.
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  #194  
Old July 28th 2009, 20:09
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I don't think #1 was running at all!!! That would explain the weird running sound on the video AND the low power!!! So really you're getting pretty good numbers for a 3 cylinder!!!

Have you pulled each injector and watch it squirt? I'll make you a small bet the #1 injector has issues or the wiring to it has issues.

Jason
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  #195  
Old July 29th 2009, 00:10
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I had to pull the injectors off to pull the motor but I'll probably put just the fuel system back on and fab up a test rig. the injectors were all brand new, balanced and tested from rc engineering. But since everything on the engine was new something could be in there blocking the flow. I'll double check the wiring but 1-2 fire together and since 2 was working I'm thinking the wiring is fine. I'm also not ruling out a spark issue... actually now that I'm thinking about it we were trying to time the engine on the dyno and a couple timing lights wouldn't work. A third finally did but it was spotty, so timing could definitely be part of it.

In other news I got the spare block back, turns out the didn't clean the case after machining and there was aluminum build up over the case savers. The deep stud hole by #3 was also filled with shavings. I still got to clean the case up more but re-assembly should happen soon.
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