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  #91  
Old February 15th 2007, 18:44
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Yes, again I agree with you. However, I do think that you can get a decent MPG with and EFI & turbo engine, IF you are mild on boost, which also helps drivability. Do you remember how much boost did this guy have?
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1990 Mex-Spec GL Bug "The Blue Flame":
Engine: Planning Stage
Transmission: Planning Stage
Suspension: Front: 3/4 swaybar w/UrethaneBushings, Dropped Spindles. Rear:CB Camber Compensator. Lowered 2 splines
Brakes: Front Brakes: 280mm solid rotors, two pot calipers. Rear: 280mm solid rotors, 1 pot calipers w/ebrake
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  #92  
Old February 17th 2007, 03:46
Veedub Veedub is offline
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I got more info on the turbo idea. If I get everything forged, pistons,crank,I beams, rockers, I can run up to 15psi and be reliable. Talked to a guy thats had his kit running 15psi, and has had it for 5 years now with no major probs. Oh and hes making 140hp (138whp)
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  #93  
Old February 18th 2007, 02:45
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EvilAngel EvilAngel is offline
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Yes but that makes the price go to sky. Cimas aren't forged, or so it seems. You are gonna spend some bucks on a forged 1600cc, and then a similar amount on the turbo.
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1990 Mex-Spec GL Bug "The Blue Flame":
Engine: Planning Stage
Transmission: Planning Stage
Suspension: Front: 3/4 swaybar w/UrethaneBushings, Dropped Spindles. Rear:CB Camber Compensator. Lowered 2 splines
Brakes: Front Brakes: 280mm solid rotors, two pot calipers. Rear: 280mm solid rotors, 1 pot calipers w/ebrake
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  #94  
Old February 18th 2007, 09:18
Veedub Veedub is offline
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yeah, come to find out his was a home made turbo kit. He never mentioned that...

I talked to Darren from DRD on the volkstalk forum, I was telling him what I wanted, a daily driver with a twist, for the temptation of just wanting to nail it on the straight aways here which everyone does thats my age anyways.
I was telling him Id like a 1641cc, and I knew about the pistons, not like I plan on overheating my car anyway
He told me
87mm pistons forged
69mm c/w forged chromoly crank
118 Web Cam cam
Dual throat Webers 40mm
Merged header and Super Turbo Muffler (I added)
Stock heads ( but I dont want stock heads)
combo is good for around 90hp 130lbs torque.
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  #95  
Old February 18th 2007, 20:42
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EvilAngel EvilAngel is offline
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Seems very well. I only say that you better get P&P heads, even if they're mild. And if you are going to spend in machining anyway, and you are also gonna get a new set of pistons/cylinders, why not go with 90.5's?
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1990 Mex-Spec GL Bug "The Blue Flame":
Engine: Planning Stage
Transmission: Planning Stage
Suspension: Front: 3/4 swaybar w/UrethaneBushings, Dropped Spindles. Rear:CB Camber Compensator. Lowered 2 splines
Brakes: Front Brakes: 280mm solid rotors, two pot calipers. Rear: 280mm solid rotors, 1 pot calipers w/ebrake
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  #96  
Old February 18th 2007, 23:59
Veedub Veedub is offline
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Well, 87mm pistons dont require machining and there less expensive.
Also for heads I was thinking of DRD's L3 heads,
specs on them
This style of head porting is for a street car/ off road car with a increase of approx 30% more than stock hp and flow.
Power output, depending on your combo, power ranges from 75HP to 125HP.
A full port and polish, small port, combustion chambers reshaped, intake manifolds matched, fly cut for
compression, comp valve job, springs shimmed to your cam and rockers, and flow bench tested.
This port combo retains bottom end torque, with excellent mid range and high end pull to 6500 rpms and increased
fuel mileage. For use on stock vw castings with stock intakes an stock exhaust valves.
Recommended mild cams shafts and mild lift .400 ~.450 numbers at the rockers.
DRD L3 porting labor per pair, includes Bead blast cleaning $275.00

And specs on the 118 Web Cam perf. cam
Valve lift .402"/ Dur of cam .283"/ Dur. at .050" .246"/
$87.00

Last edited by Veedub; February 19th 2007 at 00:26.
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  #97  
Old February 19th 2007, 12:21
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EvilAngel EvilAngel is offline
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Seems ok, but if they're slip-ins that means their cylinder walls are thinner. I'd stay with stock bore, or get at least machine-in's with stock wall width.
You don't want these to warp.
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1990 Mex-Spec GL Bug "The Blue Flame":
Engine: Planning Stage
Transmission: Planning Stage
Suspension: Front: 3/4 swaybar w/UrethaneBushings, Dropped Spindles. Rear:CB Camber Compensator. Lowered 2 splines
Brakes: Front Brakes: 280mm solid rotors, two pot calipers. Rear: 280mm solid rotors, 1 pot calipers w/ebrake
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  #98  
Old February 20th 2007, 01:28
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Does anyone on here know what the difference in hp and torque would be in a 90.5x69 (1776) and a 87x74(1760) just wondering.
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  #99  
Old February 21st 2007, 21:04
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EvilAngel EvilAngel is offline
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HP would depend more on your heads, and i guess the stroker would be a bit torquier... just theory no first hand experience
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1990 Mex-Spec GL Bug "The Blue Flame":
Engine: Planning Stage
Transmission: Planning Stage
Suspension: Front: 3/4 swaybar w/UrethaneBushings, Dropped Spindles. Rear:CB Camber Compensator. Lowered 2 splines
Brakes: Front Brakes: 280mm solid rotors, two pot calipers. Rear: 280mm solid rotors, 1 pot calipers w/ebrake
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  #100  
Old February 22nd 2007, 01:56
Veedub Veedub is offline
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ok I decided , Im going with a 1641cc with this motor, the other motor I found out it has a w100 cam, c/w crank, heads prob got something, 1.25:1 rockers, and the PO had a progressive on it, but he kept it, so Im goin to run a 34pic on it, since I got one already.The 1641cc with the combo I was told to go with, it will have about 95hp and 120lbs torque, which is what I want.
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  #101  
Old February 25th 2007, 02:29
Veedub Veedub is offline
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this is my motor combo.
It will be the 1641cc, found a better combo that wont kill my wallet as much...
87x69, 044 magnum 40x35.5 heads with cut 55cc chambers,bugpack cam .284 duration and .484" lift w/ 1.25:1 rockers, dual 40mm kadrons, merged 1.5" header w/ hideout muffler, and a full pertonix ignition.

Option #2 heads are 044 Super Magnum cnc round port heads, 40x35.5 valves, cnc porting, dual super rev springs, chromoly retainers, hardened valve locks, and 3 angle valve job - 605.95 per pair.

Any idea what the hp and torque might be?
Im guessing 100-110hp and 130lbs torque
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  #102  
Old March 7th 2007, 01:27
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hey guys, my dads friend was telling me that i can really wake up a stock 1600cc with mild bolt ons, and if I want, add a cam, motor needs rebuild anyway, and it going to be my backup motor and i just want it quicker than stock with enough balls to move out its own way.the motor thats in my car now is what i really want to build since its the one with most hp and torque stock out of the 2.

For the 1600cc I read in a past Hot VW magazine that they added bolt ons onto a 1600cc and it rand 17's, if i added heads and a cam and diff size carberators maybe it would be in the low 16's high 15's possibly?

Anyways depending if the pistons are still good would i want to reuse them or get new ones, same with the connecting rods,flywheel?
id use this kit http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails....10%2D5000%2DKT
would stock rods be ok, or i beam or h beams be and improvement, since there in the kit?
what cam followers would i want?
id go for the forged c/w 69mm crank with a W110 or W120 cam with a cam gear.
Then order dual 40 or 44mm kadrons, 1:25:1 rockers,merged header and muffler, and for heads...maybe cb's 044 heads

What you guys think, should i do that for my first motor build up then when its done and in my bug, take the current motor thats in the bug and build it into a bigger bore motor like a 1776cc?
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  #103  
Old March 12th 2007, 14:48
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EvilAngel EvilAngel is offline
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Hi again.
I'd say to use the engine with the least wear for the Hi-po, and the other one should be the mild one. If you're staying 1600, and are ona budget, you can add the w110, stock rockers, and dual kads should be fine. If your pistons, crank and rods are in better then perfect condition, and you don't plan on racing, they should be fairly ok, since you should want to spend your cash on the larger engine. Merged headers are a must, and for a 1600 i'd stay away from 044, and go 043, DRD or steve tims, because of their higher port velocity on a small displacement engine. Lightening the stock flywheel should work too. Oh, and stay away from lube-a-lobes, i've read too many bad things from them
All this is under the assumption that:
1. you are gonna build an engine that's more fun than stock, but are not gonna race it
2. you are on a budget
3. in the near future, you'll be getting a better engine (and would rather spend your cash on it)


As for your second engine, well it all comes to budget and usage.

Cheers
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1990 Mex-Spec GL Bug "The Blue Flame":
Engine: Planning Stage
Transmission: Planning Stage
Suspension: Front: 3/4 swaybar w/UrethaneBushings, Dropped Spindles. Rear:CB Camber Compensator. Lowered 2 splines
Brakes: Front Brakes: 280mm solid rotors, two pot calipers. Rear: 280mm solid rotors, 1 pot calipers w/ebrake
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  #104  
Old March 30th 2007, 16:16
Veedub Veedub is offline
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oops i double posted..

Last edited by Veedub; March 30th 2007 at 16:22.
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  #105  
Old April 1st 2007, 02:15
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EvilAngel EvilAngel is offline
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Yup, you did. Nice engine in the other thread BTW. Great starting point, and already better than my engine....
BTW, it seems that i'm gonna do a 2180cc... but that's for another thread
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1990 Mex-Spec GL Bug "The Blue Flame":
Engine: Planning Stage
Transmission: Planning Stage
Suspension: Front: 3/4 swaybar w/UrethaneBushings, Dropped Spindles. Rear:CB Camber Compensator. Lowered 2 splines
Brakes: Front Brakes: 280mm solid rotors, two pot calipers. Rear: 280mm solid rotors, 1 pot calipers w/ebrake
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