Airflow problems, need opinions...

[Rob]

Originally Posted by Panelfantastic

The "under bus duct" absolutely bombed! I had a sheet metal chase made that was 25" wide and 6" tall at the mouth, I had it flared down right behind the beam as low as I could without tearing it off on manhole lids... it did not produce very much air at all. The single NACAs on each side produced twice as much flow. I may have screwed the aero-namics with the front valance and made it push away most of the air underneath so it was doomed from the start.
NACAs are the way, especially with the hoods Carbon Joe is working on.

Panel, just out of curiousity, how did you determine if there was airflow ?
Or did the engine just run hot ?

Thanks,

Rob.

[volkdent]

Got me thinking more about this. Check your cooling system VERY well for trapped bubbles. Any high point should have a stop**** to release air. As I recall, your cooling system wasn't too complicated on the water part, but if there is a vacuum lock, this whole thing could be just that the water isn't flowing around like it's supposed to. Not likely, but an option to your troubles.

Jason

[Panelfantastic]

Rob,
Had a buddy ride in the back and check airflow at speed. Nothing coming out of the floor, quite a bit from the side ducts.

Jason,
Did have a problem early on with air pocket but did a re-vamp and added a bleed in a trouble area.

The deal is, it is very stable temp wise, no spikes at all. At an idle, the temp is only 160-170. Every few minutes, the fans will cycle on then shut back down...just like they are supposed to. When you drive at sustained speed/load for say 10-15 miles, the temp will start to creep up and continue climbing until you stop. I have seen temps as high as 230 before I pulled over and let it idle for a few minutes. It is just airflow. Getting the right balance.

[coffinator]

Try this. Remove the front air dam and see how much air flow you get from the bottom of the car.

mike,

[Panelfantastic]

Can't Mike, it's all steel and welded on.