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  #91  
Old April 20th 2013, 04:15
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Hi

The reason I went in tank pump was to reduce the heat build-up in the pump, I covered the fuel hoses with some 1303 dash vent hose covered in an insulating tape.





I drove the car last night and the new PWR intercooler radiator seems to be doing better than the old RS liberty one I had before.

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  #92  
Old April 20th 2013, 04:18
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Hi

The 1303 fresh fan housing cover is held in place by self tappers and speed nuts, I've never liked that so I used some M6 J nuts.



The one complaint I have of the K Mac strut tops is that if I ever need to remove my strut brace I would loose the camber & caster settings, so I drilled out one of the strut brace holes and used a M8 rod joiner in place of the normal nut, now if I need to remove my strut brace to remove my fuel tank I can use the one nut to hold it all in place.





and a random phone photo I took a few weeks ago



Steve
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  #93  
Old April 26th 2013, 03:48
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Hi

Went for a dyno today on the NSW Central Coast, caught up with Jak for a coffee while I was there.

Didn't make as much as I was expecting, with a few teaks he said it should make another 30-40 kWs

Steve

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  #94  
Old May 27th 2013, 18:29
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Hi

I was thinking that the wire on my Mazda in tank fuel pump may have been a bit puny to run the Bosch 044 pump.

I trawled the Internet to find a place that sold bulkhead fittings for in tank pump wiring.

Normal car electrical wiring is not fuel proof, I found these units on the HOERR site, not cheap but good insurance, there made by Fuel Safe.

Steve



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  #95  
Old May 27th 2013, 18:30
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Hi

I still have a heat issues in the fuel system, I had to use the car in peak hour traffic last week and the pump started to make some funny noises after about an hour of it, then when I had some clear road I booted it and it appeared to run rough.

After my meeting when everything was cool again it was back to normal.

I'm pulling the pump tomorrow to check on the pre filter as it may collected some crap from the recent tank up grades and to fit my heavy wiring.

Steve



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  #96  
Old May 27th 2013, 18:35
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Hi

I just ran my first track event at Wakefield Park about, its about 2 hours drive from my house.

At Wakefield I found the coolant temps got up a bit after 4 laps, around 105 c so I will do a bit more shrouding around the radiator air intake, air intakes after the intercooler were 40 c. The coolant temp has never gone over 95 before

Other than that the car ran well on low boost all day, the driver needs some work. My best time was 1:15.0680, the Quaife worked well, I think it helped having no sway bars on the car, it had great traction out of corners, the front felt a bit slippery but after my friends Rudi and Paul told me to harden up, I got a bit more heat into the front tyres and it was much better.

I only did 4 heats, filled up at Marulan about 50-80 ks away on the way down and on the way home and I used 18 litres, very economical.

Steve

video
http://youtu.be/vj3uVjIjrG0
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  #97  
Old May 28th 2013, 05:33
70Turbobug 70Turbobug is offline
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Nice video! Very quick!
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  #98  
Old May 28th 2013, 08:33
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Great video. Thanks for sharing. Good to see your car make its first track event.
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  #99  
Old May 28th 2013, 09:13
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Thanks guys, after I sort out a few things I will do some more track days
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  #100  
Old May 28th 2013, 14:16
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I worry about cooling all the time too, shrouding in is a big deal, but so is the exit so keep that in mind too!

Fun to see the track runs!

Jason
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  #101  
Old May 28th 2013, 19:02
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Hi

I've run this car on 40 degree days in bumper to bumper traffic and at our freeway speeds of 110 kph without any overheating issues. I was shocked to see that the coolant temps got up so high.

So as they say racing improve the breed.

I just had a scoop folded up to fit in area where the chassis deformation element normally sits, I will post photos soon.

Steve
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  #102  
Old May 30th 2013, 08:25
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Hi

A couple of photos from the weekend Supersprint

Steve





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  #103  
Old May 30th 2013, 12:09
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Yes, too hot that Steve, some rake angle on the rad makes it far more efficient and possible to use a smaller rad for less drag, the manufacturers stand them upright only for 'packaging and space reasons' but i dont think thats whats going on with yours as you have good rad area, a 'bottom breather' system in a Beetle can be difficult to extract the hot air, i use gills in the lower front wings to extract the rad air into the low pressure area behind them, upward venting is the way, but not easy on a street Bug without surgery, mine splits the venting air over and under, but its easy with a track car, i use additional upper vents in the front 1/4 panel fuel filler neck area, both sides are in a low pressure area to pull the hot air out, but its not descreet, i run at 80c during events, after, it heat soaks to 90c in the paddock where the fan cuts in, so you need to pull the air out more from the under tank and lower wing areas i would guess. nearly there
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  #104  
Old May 30th 2013, 22:35
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Hi

I made up this scoop to fill in the open part of my chassis and to direct air up to the radiator. I also filled gaps between the radiator and the shroud so that any air coming through the grille has to go through the radiator.

My friend Neil at Rust Right did all the folding and guillotining for me, he made my A & B stiffeners for me.

I assumed that all was working well as I had no issues driving on the street, driving at sustained higher speeds showed up the weakness in my design.

Steve





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  #105  
Old May 31st 2013, 13:31
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For a temporary measure I made one just like that from ABS, it worked great and I havn't yet been able to duplicate the success of the simple design.

Jason
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