hydraulic clutch!!!!!

[Steve C]

Hi

I finally got a chance to look at my bug again the other night, I noticed that where you put the master cylinder in your photo that there is few bolt holes for body mounting, they would make an ideal spot to bolt a box to hold the master cylinder.

Just had an idea!!!

I think they way that the RHD pedal setup makes everything a bit cramped.

What about mounting the 2 cylinders how you have them in the above photo and making-up a pedal assembly that pushes straight onto the master cylinders or altering the stock pedals to do the same?

Steve

[STIDUB]

steve, mounting them loosely where they are sitting in the pic & making pedals & pushrods to suit the cylinders was precisely what i was getting at, its a bulkhead/napolean hat mod & a pedal change, as far as neat installs go & sensible mounting it seems to be the best option, honestly if your doing this conversion some pedals wouldnt be hard to make up, when i can call customveedub ill ask them about getting it modded to suit, once thats done theres nothing really stopping it happening, mirror the long brake line to the opposite side of the pan & you couldnt get much neater right?

the box idea is kind of redundant as the idea was to mount them directly to the section of floorpan like the original & making pedal setup easier, why make things more complex than need be? i hope your coming to warwick in october? if its done by then (which it should be) i may tow the completed pan up & discuss

[Steve C]

Hi

I reckon you could use the existing pedals, on the brake pedal just weld another section onto it to mimic the VW brake pedal, then on the clutch pedal just attach a clevis like in the photos I posted of Micks car.

I hope I can get to Warwick, I may have to work that weekend.

Steve

[Steve C]

Hi

I got the weekend off for Warwick, now I have to get my finger out and build a 1776 for the daily 1303, teid of doing road trips with a stocker.

I had a bit of play around today with a stock brake M/C and a clutch M/C.

I really think the two M/Cs can be fitted together side by side OK, I'm going to make a up cardboard template to test my theory.

Steve

Hopefully these photos will get across what Im saying.

[STIDUB]

way ahead of ya steve knocking up the bits in sheet yesterday/today & probably getting custom veedub to get some cut perfectly to suit while my pan is in the shop getting the adjuster fitted to the rear, ok not quite way ahead but you get the idea, shall we compare placements once finished?

[STIDUB]

ok, the kombi mc mounting is different to the bugs, im sure your aware, slightly different angle, putting them in the bug positions(rotating to suit) would make bleeding difficult as the res tubes wouldnt be at the top, that said with the integral res mc i have currently the positions relating to each other dont allow enough room for the brake switch in the kombi position(using the correct rotation position not the bug) i then considered the wilwood mc but theres no position for the brake switch, so a T peice would be needed, that said ill play with the kombi mc & my clutch mc locations to see if they can be massaged together, perhaps a 90* fitting could solve the problem but im not content to use that as the solution as yet, i might have a crack with the bug mc too just for universal applications

[Steve C]

Hi

The angle of the Beetle MC is perfect, it allows it to fit snugly against the clutch MC and the angle of the MC also helps when it gets down close to the taper in pan bulk head. For a T piece you can use one of the 3 way couplings on the front of supers or the rear of all bugs.

Steve

[STIDUB]

Hi steve, you mean a little like that? :P
yeah its mighty cosy, also need adapter fitting for the wilwood mc as it doesnt suit the vw- damn americans & imperial measurements, im curious what the wilwood mc would fit like too, as its mounting is vertical like the clutch (RHS of pic)

[STIDUB]

that should make sense to anyone thats looking at this thread i hope
the other possibility is tilting the kombi mc to suit the bug mounts hole positions- that may cause a bleeding issue though, hopefully ill have a chat to someone at work about overcoming that though, or see if its fine as is from the guys on avd that use kombi mc's

on a side note, whats a 944 or others you guys have used, mount like so the lines to the resi are pointed straight up?

[Steve C]

Hi

The MC in my photo uses American threads, its left over from an experiment I did a few years ago, I just had hard steel line made with one of each thread at each end.

I saw somewhere on the net an adaptor to fit a 944 MC to a Beetle.

Steve

[STIDUB]

hi steve, update for the template im making up, with the kombi mc & wilwood mc in line with each other the kombi mc would require trimming of the shell where the lip is that sits over the edge of the pan, the bug one on the other hand, perfect, im going to do some figures with the brakes/required fluid volume to stop effectively to see what mc would be better while i have the option, the other option is a 25mm wilwood as ive previously mentioned as its mounting space is significantly smaller than both, the other option is lower the mounts about 10mm on the horizontal on the kombi mc & have a bent pushrod to keep the pedal travel/ brake piston travel ration the same, does that make sense? 10mm is probably a fair bit more than necessary but it would fit just fine, i wish i had my pan & pedals at work today! should have this sorted out by this time next week! and INSTALLED by warwick!! anyone else keen on this design or is it just steve & myself?

[Steve C]

Hi

I'm planning a bit of alone time with my bug tonight. I'm going to draw up plans to see if its going to work and then get my around to where I'm at, I haven't done much to it since Christmas.

As far as sizing goes I found 19mm fine on my old 1302 with 4 spots all round and Jak found the 19mm worked well even with 40mm 4 spots.

But then again if you go Willwood you change master cylinder size very easily.

Steve

[Steve C]

Hi

I reckon that its going to work OK moving the stock super master cylinder to the right and then there is room to fit the clutch M/C next to it.

I wont do any of this until the body comes off the pan, its too hard with the body on.

Steve

[ricola]

I was going to do this and was happy there is enough room. In the end the pedal set-up I went for wasn't too expensive and comes with bias adjustment which I think will be very beneficial considering how different my chassis set-up will be compared with before...

[STIDUB]

With more research & number crunching i found the willwood mc wouldnt suit as its stroke it about 10cm LESS than vw's the biggest wilwood (1") works out about 1/2 way between the 19mm beetle & the 24mm kombi i think ill allow for either standard vw one for mine & see how it goes
as far as i can tell the bigger mc will make pedal feel harder as its moving more capacity, that said both should work alright, just depends which one works BEST in real life, numbers arent everything in my opinion
on that note, to fit the kombi mc & stop the need for trimming the lip on the body shell at all, drop the MC 10mm on the vertical axis, after positioning it hard against the clutch mc
make a pushrod to suit, for simplisitic sake call the pushrod a 10mm bolt, cut the head off, get another & cut the head off, rotate the threaded ends to opposite directions, weld the smooth sections(on longer bolts) together, makes the pushrodedal movement ratio exactly the same despite the drop in height