hydraulic clutch!!!!!

[Steve C]

Hi Rich

I priced your system and it worked out pretty expensive to get down here with the exchange rate, it looks like a very well engineered product, our local authorities wont allow adjustable brake bias on a road car.

Steve

[STIDUB]

so steve, how did your weekend go? mine came up with a problem that the hydraulic hard line is going to be VERY cosy with the pan, the brake line to the rear should fit in an almost factory style though, just about at the stage where im cutting the original peice out & doing the final template/new peice to weld in, exciting times, looking good to have it done by the weekend, also... have you put any thought into the pedals yet? getting pivot points strong enough on modidied standards is going to be difficult, may end up just making some nice new ones to suit, will see how it goes though, hope you had a win with yours?

(pics of my progress later- im on break at work )

[Steve C]

Hi

Got a bit done then went to V Force for a beer. I'm happy with what Ive come up with, but I will wait until the body is off the pan to finalise it.

I was planning to use stock pedals, the clutch wont be a big deal, just fit boss to it to take a clevis.

The brake pedal needs a bit more thought. I was thinking of making lever to fit around the pedal shaft a bit like the stock brake lever, make it nice and thick and weld it on.

I don't think it will be very hard to duplicate the stock hard line for the clutch, it could even be run in the tunnel or on the passengers side in the same location as the brake line.

Steve

[STIDUB]

my mc for my clutch runs at a 45deg angle towards the bulkhead it mounts to so im running the hard line right up & over it then down the tunnel, not sure if i should run it over the tunnel & mirror the brake line or run it above & switch over to the clutch arm side at the forks... pics shortly... worked longer than normal yet again

mounted loosely, need to grind out the hole for the kombi MC 1 mm more as theres no 42 mm holesaw available at the time, the holes to the top of the clutch MC & to the extreme left of the brake MC is for the hard lines to go to the rear of the car, best compromise of location & functionality with the space available

give people an idea of how its mounted/layed out

should be ground out tomorrow & then its cutting time on the floor pan!, oh & because of the extra holes, im using thicker steel but also will weld in some piping between the 2 plates, for the bolt holes, pushrod & hard lines

[al_kaholik]

Closely watching both of these setups. Its good to see some things being done on RHD cars

Rich, question. Where are you going to be mounting your fluid bottles? And are you anticipating much trouble with running lines to them?

Al

[Steve C]

Hi

Us poor RHD people are in the minority, we need all the help we can get.

That looks good. The factory setup with steel tube spacers meant that the stock MC was only actually mounted on the outside section of the pan.

Steve

[STIDUB]

cheers steve, the body lip will still need minor clearancing but nothing a little stitch welding wont cure (the lip is spot welded for those playing at home)
the idea of using welded tube would mean, no leaks into the cavity, no dropping spacers & a far stronger mount for the cylinders, afterall, theres now an extra 35mm hole & more than a few 8 & 16mm holes now, will see how i go for sourcing small sections of tube
bent pushrod to make the pivot the same height will prove interesting, on a downer, my floorpan has to wait another two weeks, minor setback but at least its less rushed for me personally.

Shame when the rest of life interferes with the Vdubs!

[Steve C]

Hi

If your looking for tubing, find some old bug seats, the tubes in the a squab adjustment are the correct size. I used them for a mixer for some floor levelling stuff.

Steve

[evilC]

Originally Posted by Steve C

Hi

If your looking for tubing, find some old bug seats, the tubes in the a squab adjustment are the correct size. I used them for a mixer for some floor levelling stuff.

Steve

Thats one slick garage you've got there Steve!

It can't be the house because noboby does work on houses when there's bugs to do!!!!!!

[Steve C]

Originally Posted by evilC

Thats one slick garage you've got there Steve!

It can't be the house because noboby does work on houses when there's bugs to do!!!!!!

A moment of weakness, it was the house, got to keep er indoors appeased

[STIDUB]

the lack of oil stains should of given it away :P

[Steve C]

But there is blood on my foot, thats what I get for wearing those Taiwanese safety boots lol

[STIDUB]

an update for those that are interested....






remote res clutch mc was required to clear the sheetmetal of the spare wheel well, then the red line on the body shell lip needs to be trimmed then stitch welds to replace it, will get some up later when its all plumbed in/finished off but at least we all know it WILL fit now, best part is the wilwood gear has about 6 different size options so getting it just right should be a walk in the park

[wrenchnride247]

You RHD guy's have it easy mounting a cylinder for the clutch...try it on the other side

Looks like great progress though!

[Steve C]

Hi

I did some work on my pan today. I relocated the brake master cylinder 30 mm to the drivers (right) side, this gives me enough room to fit a clutch master in next to it.

I now have to move the lever on the brake pedal over 30 mm as well and fit rose joint attachment to the clutch pedal to operate the clutch master cylinder.

Steve