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  #16  
Old February 17th 2005, 08:55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandeep
By the angles involved, I don't see how putting a Z bend in the rod would work, let alone shift smoothly ... the 2 u-joints are definately the way to go.
Sandeep
We are very OT, but:
There is more than one way to achieve great shifting. I got my 915 trans to shift super smoothly and very direct. The so-called Z shape shift rod is a great eggageration (sp?). It only bends a very little and will therefore not make a noticeable difference whith the limited rotating of the rod when the shifter is move sideways.
The big difference lies in the same: the coupling. The porsche coupling is vastly superior, but has a build-in slack (as new!) to accommedate the moving of the trans/engine in a 911. In a well set-up bug with stiffer mounting of trans/engine, this won't happen that severely and engine torque will not pull the trans out of a gear. So, you can use a better coupling bushing without slack (as sold by Pelican). This makes a huge difference is my experience.

Greetings,
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  #17  
Old February 17th 2005, 16:12
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Will those support arms attached to the control arm arch at the same radius as the sway bar will? You might be creating some uneccasary forces on the control arms if the sway is traveling in a different direction. You could however leave the sway bar non bolted to the control arm so is would be free to move a little during suspension travel. I am talking nonsense or does this make sense? BTW that looks like a killer pan.
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  #18  
Old February 17th 2005, 17:55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vw1303
Will those support arms attached to the control arm arch at the same radius as the sway bar will? You might be creating some uneccasary forces on the control arms if the sway is traveling in a different direction. You could however leave the sway bar non bolted to the control arm so is would be free to move a little during suspension travel. I am talking nonsense or does this make sense? BTW that looks like a killer pan.
The swaybar attaches to the control arms by heim-jointed drop-links. It's no longer a structural member of the front suspension.
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  #19  
Old February 20th 2005, 16:10
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Pics of the finished control arms...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg lfctrlarm.jpg (61.3 KB, 200 views)
File Type: jpg lfctrlarm4.jpg (65.4 KB, 159 views)
File Type: jpg framehead8.jpg (70.5 KB, 186 views)
File Type: jpg framehead0.jpg (78.9 KB, 164 views)
File Type: jpg lfctrlarm6.jpg (52.3 KB, 175 views)
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  #20  
Old February 21st 2005, 09:58
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Looking realy good Yeti... I realy like what you did with your pedals. :agree:
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  #21  
Old February 26th 2005, 22:40
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Thanks BG. The holy pedals were kind of an afterthought, but I'm glad I did the drillin' :agree:


Here's some mo' front end parts...
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File Type: jpg McStruts.jpg (72.6 KB, 180 views)
File Type: jpg McStrut-tube.jpg (72.9 KB, 149 views)
File Type: jpg preloadadjuster.jpg (66.1 KB, 157 views)
File Type: jpg perchandadjuster.jpg (70.9 KB, 144 views)
File Type: jpg perches.jpg (71.8 KB, 146 views)
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  #22  
Old February 27th 2005, 06:22
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Those struts look good man. What springs rates are you using? And where did you get the adjustable bottom perches from?
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  #23  
Old February 27th 2005, 08:43
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Sweet. I love the McColors. Now all you need is McSway-bars and McStut-brace and you will have a complete McFront-end combo,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,add a Super Size order McCalipers and McRotors.
Oh and hold the onions. :agree:
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  #24  
Old February 27th 2005, 08:48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NO_H2O
Sweet. I love the McColors. Now all you need is McSway-bars and McStut-brace and you will have a complete McFront-end combo,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,add a Super Size order McCalipers and McRotors.
Oh and hold the onions. :agree:

I got a Happy Meal
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  #25  
Old February 27th 2005, 08:53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vw1303
Those struts look good man. What springs rates are you using? And where did you get the adjustable bottom perches from?
The springs are prolly somewhere between 75 and 80lbs or so, I don't know. I got them from AC.net, and they're for a Super. The perches are stock 1303, and the threaded sleeves, and jam-nuts I got from a local speed shop.
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  #26  
Old March 1st 2005, 20:58
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great looking set up you got there yeti! I like the red springs....they stand out against the yellow quite a bit. :agree:
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  #27  
Old March 1st 2005, 21:20
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Yeti,
This is really cool, I am enjoying the progress you are making, it is inspiring me to get in my own garage and get going, especially with 2 projects now...
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  #28  
Old March 1st 2005, 23:13
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Looks awesome! Just tell me the struts bottom out before the front of the control arm does?

Jason
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  #29  
Old March 2nd 2005, 08:21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volkdent
Looks awesome! Just tell me the struts bottom out before the front of the control arm does?

Jason

Well, the IIRC, the ball joints are 6.5" off the ground with 205/40-17 tires, so with the frame head on the ground, and the ball joints 6.5" off the ground, I have about 1/4" clearance between the control arm and it's channel within the framehead. The bump-stops make contactwell before that.

That's what the angle is for in those diagonal links I added to the control arm. Eliminates an acclusion problem.
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  #30  
Old March 7th 2005, 09:16
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Looking good Yetiman.
Your front suspension setup looks quite the same that I´ve been thinking of. They have used similar "compression struts" or "radius arms" in RWD Ford Escorts for rallying. Take a look:
http://www.prepfab.co.uk/newsuspension.htm
And I remember seeing a setup like that in a Japanese racer featured article.
Very interesting upgrade to a super I think.
Justin
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