Valve covers

[Wally]

Oliver,
You advised me to use an original set of valve covers. Why is that?

I always believed that strong aluminium valve covers (with additional fins) would cool the heads a little bit extra, the groove in the sealing area and the 2 or 4 bolt attachment would seal the cover better to the head and they would also dampen the valve train noise a bit better than the original ones.

Thanks,
Walter

[bren]

bolt-up valve covers have proved to be nothing but a pain in the a$$ in my experience. they rarely seal as well as a good stock cover, ive seen them crack around the bolt holes when torqued up to spec, and i also dont like the idea of putting extra stress on the rocker studs.

maybe oliver has different reasons, but those are mine! a stock cover with an elring gasket and a light smear of grease both sides, new bail clip and a welded vent tube are all you ever need .. finned ally covers wont provide much extra cooling if you ask me as heat from the head wont pass through the gasket too readily.

[Richie]

Well, the only problem I always encounter is the sealing around the boltholes. I solved this by tossing the original o-rings away, which are always of the wrong (cheap) material. Instead I made my own copper rings because the ones I can buy are just too thin.
The extra cooling aluminum valvecovers give is not for the heat coming from the head but from the oil in the head which has a better way of giving off its heat through the valvecovers. If the grooves would also be on the inside of the covers the effect would be even greater due to its bigger surface.
So far they always worked for me and never leaked.

cheers,

Richard

[lightning bug]

I'm also using the clip-ons. Had Empi's. All they did was leak. The seals they give you suck too. As an added bonus, the stocks give you that "sleeper" look.

[SPEEDY57TUB]

I use the stock ones for that "sleeper-look". For a leak proof seal, set the stock gaskets onto the covers with Yamabond, Curil-T, Permatex, Gasgacinch, or other. This will allow the gasket to stay put. Between the head and gasket contacting/mating areas, use Permatex-Hylomar or a bit of grease. Hylomar will allow you to easily remove the covers when you have to adjust the valves while providing an outstanding seal. Since I started to do this, I haven't had a leak around this area. Some people recommend silicone but I have not tried it. Either way, good luck!

[Oliver Knuf]

I recommend the originals for the same reasons, that Bren wrote down. There are aluminum covers, that are working, e.g. I use Type 1 & 4 covers from Remmele, the Type 1 covers from CSP are also pretty fine, the aluminum covers from Eurorace work good, too, but only with minor rework on the bolt-sealing. The originals are just the best because, they fit, last, stay tight and seal correctly! It's just a matter of pricing and room, on most Type 4's in beetles is no room for aluminum covers.

[Powerman]

I've seen several aluminums Type 4 valve covers that are warped, and need truing up. Also the aluminum hex that the cover bolts into can strip out if you adjust the valves alot.