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  #16  
Old November 8th 2008, 20:29
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I've tried to stock 19mm dual circuit MC with 944NA brakes, and it doesn't work well. Not enough volume. You need the 944MC for the NA brakes. With aluminum brembo's, the stock 19mm works extremely well.

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  #17  
Old November 10th 2008, 08:47
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The original standard m/c for the 944 was a 19/19 unit that was later changed to 23/19 and that is the one that most people refer to as the 944 m/c. Fluid volume is not really the issue with a fully working system with good lines and fresh fluid (well bled). The basics of hydraulic advantage is that the pedal effort is multiplied by the area of caliper pistons (2No.) / area of mc piston. The stand off of the pad from the disc is very small so as minimise pedal travel. The main effects on pedal travel are hose bulge and water/air in the system that then compresses.
On a bug with a larger caliper piston area at the front than on the rear the stepped m/c can be of some advantage as the desireable brake bias is unity i.e. the braking effort front and rear should be about the same. The larger m/c piston is around 45% larger in area than the smaller piston and therefore gives 2/3rds the fluid pressure than the rear line.

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  #18  
Old November 10th 2008, 09:06
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Yeah, that too
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  #19  
Old November 10th 2008, 09:47
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I've just speaking from my experience. The 19mm stocker didn't feel right with the 944NA brakes, the pedal travel was too deep. Everything on the car was new/rebuilt, with fresh fluid in the system. It would brake, but you felt the need to pump the pedal to get the required volume. Swapped it over for a 23/19 MC and it was amazing. Tall pedal + great clamping = driver confidence. The 19mm MC worked, but the 23/19 worked MUCH better.

So, the question boils down to this: Has anyone used a 19mm stock MC on a 944 NA brake system with good success?

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  #20  
Old November 10th 2008, 10:45
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Nice looking car!
Like your kind of diary style writing btw

Quote:
Originally Posted by Xellex View Post
Then I bought "clear 3 chamber" headlights, with turn signals incorporated in them. I didnt relocate the turn signals yet because it would look strange still haveing the ones on the fenders too.
Are those these plastic ones http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails....C%2DC10%2D7580 ?

If so, how does the light coming through the lens look?
I'm looking for a clean way to integrate my turn signals into my headlights, but I heard the light quality coming out of these isn't all that good.
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  #21  
Old November 10th 2008, 11:58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flat View Post
I've just speaking from my experience. The 19mm stocker didn't feel right with the 944NA brakes, the pedal travel was too deep. Everything on the car was new/rebuilt, with fresh fluid in the system. It would brake, but you felt the need to pump the pedal to get the required volume. Swapped it over for a 23/19 MC and it was amazing. Tall pedal + great clamping = driver confidence. The 19mm MC worked, but the 23/19 worked MUCH better.

So, the question boils down to this: Has anyone used a 19mm stock MC on a 944 NA brake system with good success?

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I have left the standard 19/19 dual circuit m/c in my build up with turbo 4 pot calipers on the rear and for now the 944 N/A single pots on the front. All of this is with new hard lines and ss teflon hoses together with a bias valve in the rear line as I expect/want a rear bias that I can dial out at will. I have yet to fill the system so can't report on pedal feel but all my calcs lend themselves to a solid pedal. I also have a stepped 944 m/c should I need it but that would make the bias even more to the rear and was only anticipating using it with the 4 pot turbo calipers that I was looking to use should an upgrade be required.

What rear calipers are you running?

Quote:
Originally Posted by $aint View Post
Nice looking car!
Like your kind of diary style writing btw


Are those these plastic ones http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails....C%2DC10%2D7580 ?

If so, how does the light coming through the lens look?
I'm looking for a clean way to integrate my turn signals into my headlights, but I heard the light quality coming out of these isn't all that good.
I've got a pair of similar ones with a clear lens to go onto the '03 (Super). If those are anything like mine then they are Golf MK1 (Rabbit) and require new fitting tabs for the headlamp bowl. Also, I haven't yet worked out a quick way to change blown bulbs without completely dismantling the lamp, which of a foul weather night will be a serious pain especially on a competitive road rally. I wouldn't consider indicators within the lamp as over here several manufacturers have gone down that route for styling reasons only to make them difficult to see when the headlamps are on. There was some discussion over here about using the sidelight bulb in yellow as the indicator but that is even worse IMO as it will be only a 5 watt unit instead of the 21 watt required by law.

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  #22  
Old November 10th 2008, 12:46
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Sorry to jack the thread, but just to share my experience. I've tried a few setups with different masters:

944NA with 19mm stock dual circuit- pedal too low, but works

944NA with 23/19, very nice, tall pedal, good actuation.

944T with 23/19, pretty good, but hard pedal, amazing actuation.

944T with 19mm dual, about perfect.

986S with 19mm dual, amazing. easy pedal and will pop your eyeballs out of the socket.

964 C2 with 23/19, good, but could be better. Probably 20mm dual circuit from a 911 would be best.

I've never tried mixing NA and T components on the same vehicle, so I don't have any feedback to share. All the above setups were tested on a 1302 beetle or split window bus.

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Quote:
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What rear calipers are you running?
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  #23  
Old November 10th 2008, 13:44
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stock 944 NA front brakes and standard 19mm m/c I found I didn't get enough travel (pedal was bottoming out), maybe if they were all fully bedded in they would get borderline acceptable?
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  #24  
Old November 10th 2008, 14:25
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thanks for all the input guys, I really apreciate it.

@ $aint: thank you, I really hope I can bring something back to this great comunity.
About the headlights, yes they are the same as those on Cip1, but mine have clar glass all the way. So the light output is awesome.. much better than a new car, but not disturbing the incoming traffic.
They are made all out of plastic and the overall quality is not that good, but acceptable for now.
There is that problem about having to remove them if a light bulb gets blown, but Xenon headlights should hold much much longer than halogen ones. (at least in theory).
About incorporating the turn signal bulbs in them, I wanted to do it too, but now I think it's not a very good idea. The radius from where they can be seen would be too small. Instead of that, I want to incorporate fog/city lights in them, and place the turn signals in the bumper.
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  #25  
Old November 15th 2008, 21:35
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You have a really clean car. I am enjoying your reading about your progress.
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  #26  
Old November 16th 2008, 07:04
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thank you, I'm happy to hear that
I made some more progress last week. I decided to make the custom brackets for the rear Porsche stabilizer bar, and I copied the Kerscher design. They didn't come out as nice as the german ones, but they worked ok.
The lower part, where the bushing stays is actually the original piece that I removed from the Porsche torsion bar housing.



I assembled the Porsche drive axles, with Beetle CV joints to one side and Porsche CV joints to the other.
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  #27  
Old November 16th 2008, 07:12
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And the Kerscher ball-joints came with the mail, so I went to a shop to replace the original ones. I also drilled the hole in the spindle, for the speedometer cable. It came out very nice. And I installed the urethane bushings into the A-arms.



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  #28  
Old November 19th 2008, 21:29
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This goes to Wally and the other guys living in the Netherlands: I just got tickets and I'm gonna spend Christmas (23Dec-27Dec) with my girlfriend and brother in Hague and Amsterdam.
I've checked the keversite website, but I can't understand much of it. (other than the fact that there's alot of activity in the netherland's aircooled world) I want to know if there's something bug/aircooled related that's worth visiting in that area.
The Paruzzi store seems close... maybe it's worth going there. Anything else interesting? (kieft&klok maybe?)
Oh, and I'd love to meet you and see the white bug and the 411.
Thanks
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  #29  
Old December 5th 2008, 22:35
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Haven't done much to the bug lately... Master brake cylinder is in now, so are the drive axles. I had to shorten that pedal push rod that goes into the MBC about 1cm.

And I changed the gear coupler bushings. I'm extremely happy with the results, but I will have to change that bushing in the tunnel too, to get everything perfect.

I will have to order the custom struts soon, but it's not on my priority list with christmas/new year and all.
I've ordered a full braking hard lines kit, after I tried to re-route one of them and it broke in my hand.
Oh, and I cleaned the Porsche R&P steering, to be able to handle it without getting my hands dirty. It's a challenge but I really want to try and make it work... we'll see if I'm gonna get anything good of it. If not, then I'll probably settle for a stock post '75 1303 R&P.


Still waiting for a response to my previous post, if any1 in knows anything and is willing to share
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Last edited by Xellex; December 7th 2008 at 22:39.
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  #30  
Old December 8th 2008, 06:47
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Xellex, are you convinced about using the porsche rack? i have a couple of queries:
1) The porsche rack looks as though it will give a huge amount of bump steer as the pivot point is too far outboard for the pivot point of the lower suspension arm.
2) I would have thought that utilising a power steering unit will be overkill for such a light front end and you will lose all feel.

A standard steering rack would be the way to go and it should be quick enough for most circumstances.

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