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  #406  
Old October 31st 2012, 21:20
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Hi

If anyone is interested I have factory plans for the 181 style sump protectors for Type 1 & Type 4 motors.

Steve
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  #407  
Old November 15th 2012, 03:52
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Originally Posted by Steve C View Post
Hi

If anyone is interested I have factory plans for the 181 style sump protectors for Type 1 & Type 4 motors.

Steve
I'd be interested in those, curious to see them.

...In other news, now that I'm back from SEMA and mostly caught up I figured I would actually tackle the tuning of the bug. With the wideband hooked up I'm far less worried about blowing up the motor, so I poured a glass of wine, hooked up the laptop and pulled out the screwdrivers.

I just getting started when something caught my eye, something I would have never caught without the Weber doors. Seems my 3/4 accelerator pump cover lost the pivot pin. Crap! Where am I going to get a replacement for that?

Oh wait...what's that on the Colt?


Spare, genuine, Weber parts! Fortunately Empi's Chinese suppliers are good 3D photocopiers, and the Weber pump cover popped right on without problems.


With that, it was back to tuning. The way the carbs were originally setup up (by ear, and rich). I was running at 11.5:1 at idle, dropping to 10.5 under full load. In other words, very rich! With the Wideband I was able to set up the sitting idle at 13.5:1. The result of which means when I'm driving around town I'm seeing anywhere from 13.5-14.5 under partial throttle/loads, and then going to a 12:1 ratio under full load.

WOW what a difference. I seriously should have done this months ago. It's crisp, any of the running issues or quirks are gone, and it's got significantly more power. Took a buddy out in the car (who's been in it lots) and after a single pull on the highway he was asking about what new parts I had put in the engine.

Of course, now that I have a sweet Wideband setup, I need to figure out how to protect it from gravel...


Vibrant Performance & DCI Heat Shielding to the rescue. Technically I'm not using the product as designed, and I will need to build something a little more robust down the road...but Totem rally (snow and ice) is this coming weekend and I needed a quick fix to last a few days. This material is rock solid with the curve, and even my ball peen hammer wasn't making a mark. That pretty much tells me it will be folded around the O2 sensor by the end of the weekend, but probably won't allow the sensor to be damaged :P


I picked up enough of the material to protect the exhaust wrap on the muffler as well, but will wait until after the weekend to re-do the wrap. Snow tires should be here tomorrow, and I can finish packing the car for the event. I won't be racing this one (I'm event steward) but at least I will get out for some fun roads and winter sliding.

-Dave
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  #408  
Old November 15th 2012, 12:51
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Dave, I didn't know you went to SEMA!!! I was there Thurs and Fri, I wish I knew it would have been nice to meet! I'm from BC, but I only get there about every 4 years, so the chances are actually better of meeting up at SEMA then BC!

Jason
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  #409  
Old November 15th 2012, 15:15
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Indeed!

I saw your photos after my return. The WiFi at my hotel was absolutely terrible, so the trip ended up being all business.

-Dave
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  #410  
Old November 18th 2012, 22:47
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Originally Posted by owdlvr View Post
I'd be interested in those, curious to see them.
Hi

Plans for the 181 style sump protector, Type 1 & Type 4 and it looks like the updated one for a 2 litre.

These are from a VW publication called "Journeys under difficult conditions"

It also has a protection plate for the jack point

Steve





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  #411  
Old November 30th 2012, 03:35
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Well, Totem Rally didn't exactly work out as planned. The event started out well enough...I had great drive up, and Saturday was a tonne of fun. The morning stages were mostly gravel due to warmer temperatures, but as we climbed up in elevation we got to see some colder temps and 'old snow'. The car started to feel 'right', and I was getting used to it on the slippery stuff which was a relief beyond reliefs.

See, I swapped from super-stiff sidewall summer performance tires to snow tires, and then immediately left on a five hour drive over the Duffy Lake road to the rally start. The Duffy is a mountain pass full of twisties and dangerous corners, which I pretty much know like the back of my hand and usually enjoy. The entire trip the car felt like it was trying to kill me. You'd turn the wheel, the car would turn in...followed by the sidewalls flexing and then it would REALLY turn in. Horribly unpredictable and near deadly before I wisely calmed down.

But yes...by mid-day Saturday, I was back to getting along with the car on all surface types.



Saturday afternoon was a blast. Mud, gravel, a bit of snow and then a "late on transit" night time blast through mud and ice with the odd fallen tree. Fun is seeing a downed tree, hitting the brakes and having to do the split-second determination of whether a) you lost all brakes on the car 'somewhere back there' or b) that's ice, not water and you have no grip. Oh yes! B. Quick, adapt! Alas, a stage later and the fun was over.

The last two stages for the day were cancelled due to multiple road blockages. I came upon the rally group as they gathered at a bridge, and stopped the car. I left it idling as I got out and walked four cars down the row to get the latest update. A brief chat, and walking back to the car I noticed the air had a lot of exhaust vapor. Wait, "is that my car making all that smoke?" OH #$%!!!!!!!!! It is! We're talking blown-motor, can no longer see the cars parked around me smoke-show. I jumped in, oil-pressure light was on, and shut it off just as my brain registered the 0psi on the oil pressure gauge.

Checked the oil tank, completely empty. Checked under the car, as best we could with flashlights, no major oil leaks that we could find...though the skid plate was coated. I filled the oil tank with the 5L extra I had and started the car. After about 20 seconds, the oil pressure light went out and 20psi popped up on the gauge. (this, for the record, is normal procedure when filling the system from dry). While the procedure determined the oil system was working, there was no diagnosing where all the oil disappeared to. Thus, I had sweep rope-tow me 40km to the highway, where we dumped the car. From there I had a 14 hour towing adventure with borrowed vehicles that still didn't get the car to my house. Sigh.

I met the guys who owned this Mercedes about 10min before they offered to loan it to me for an overnight towing adventure...a bit nuts, but I wasn't going to complain!


Getting the car on and off the trailer, however, required some creative techniques.


That was two and half weeks ago, and finally last Friday I was able to pickup up the car and bring it home. Driven hard, and put away wet. Yeah, this cleanup was going to suck. It started with a $10 trip to the car wash, where I thought I had gotten most of it. Once it was on axle stands in my garage I realized how much more mud there was...











So, a second wash in my garage...and then the floor...and then I could start on tear down.

Yeah...that's probably not a good sign:


I'm seriously thinking of switching to track racing. This is just brutal :P


Now, I suppose at this point I should mention the magical beast which is my oil system. See, when the motor blew deep in the woods of Lac La Hache we found no oil in the tank, and added 5L. When I pulled the car off the trailer, however, the tank was overflowing onto the floorboards. The breather tanks were overflowing into the engine bay and the actual engine had half a dipstick worth in it. Now I have all the oil I was missing, PLUS the extra 5L! After some thought, it seemed pretty clear the scavenge stage of the oil pump must have failed and it was no longer removing oil from the engine. Once the system had pumped all the oil into the engine, there was none left to pull from the tank and thus zero oil pressure. The heads would have been stuffed full, and thus we get the massive smoke show.

But here's the trick shot. The BugPack oil pump is 100% a-okay:


So what happened? And why did 'it' fail, and then start working again (as evidenced by the pump emptying the engine and overflowing everything else)?

So far I've managed to disassemble the entire engine and I've found no clues. The pistons and cylinders are perfect, the main bearings look like they're barely used. The rod bearings look like they've been run for about 20min, the cam bearings are basically new and the lifters and cam are also perfect. The pickup is tight, and clear. I still need to test the line from the pump to tank, but that's not a very likely failure point. It's a total mystery. At this stage I'm going to have to reassemble and simply not leave the car idling without being in the driver's seat.

On the plus side, my heads are beginning to show the 65,000+ miles they have on them. The combustion chambers cleaned up nice, but when I pulled the valves for a cleaning I found two guides with lots of play and one guide broken (with bits missing) in the exhaust port. The heads are going to visit Darren at K-Roc heads for a much needed 'refurbish' while I continue to clean the mud and oil off of every component from the front bumper to the rear bumper.

Track racing seems like it would be a whole lot cleaner...

-Dave
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Last edited by owdlvr; November 30th 2012 at 03:40.
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  #412  
Old November 30th 2012, 04:51
al_kaholik al_kaholik is offline
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That mud is everywhere. Where do you even start to clean that all off?

Could you look to install some defelctors on the inside of the rear wings?

Hope that the engine is fine once its back together, always a worry when it can't be diagnosed
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  #413  
Old November 30th 2012, 18:45
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Yeah, it's been a week of cleaning stuff, and I'm still not all the way through it. On the plus side, I probably would have overheated a head shortly after the event without cleaning all the mud off

Dish duty at my house is a little different...


Broken valve guide, and the reason the heads are off getting some work done.


-Dave
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  #414  
Old December 1st 2012, 06:48
70Turbobug 70Turbobug is offline
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Hi Dave,
yes...mud is your friend! The good thing is,now you see where improvements need to be made and what could be done to make things easier to clean for the future.Or switch to track racing
Concerning your oil problem: A possible reason (that I am certain of) could be that your crankcase ventilation is not sufficient.On my old car,I´ve had a very similar problem before and I enlarged my crank case ventilation to an AN-16 and a larger breatherbox.After that no oil pressure problems and a decrease in oil temps also,but most important,no more oil leaks from the valve covers or elsewhere.

Mark
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  #415  
Old December 3rd 2012, 14:04
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Heads are back. Main case is assembled, should have the motor ready to install before bed.

-Dave
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  #416  
Old December 4th 2012, 07:00
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Engine is reassembled and ready to go in tomorrow after I get some help lifting it off the stand. I ended up getting the wrong exhaust gaskets for the muffler to pipes, so I'll probably be making a set of four tomorrow. Fun!


I re-wrapped the exhaust again, for the third time. Every time I hit gravel it tears the wrap and start little flaps of wrap hanging down from the muffler. Thus, this time I decided to do something about it.


The metal sheet is aluminum heat-shield from DCI Performance Products in Australia. Trimmed to fit, it should make a nice stone guard to keep the rocks from tearing up the heat wrap.

...and in place:


it's going to be a smoke-show for a while after start-up, the muffler has a nice coating of oil inside all of the internals. I tried to clean it out with some degreasers, but doesn't appear to have been too effective. So tomorrow I'll figure out gaskets, hopefully install the motor, and start cleaning the interior mess. Should fire the car back up on Wednesday if things go to plan.

-Dave
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  #417  
Old December 4th 2012, 12:40
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Hi Dave, stick with it, your doing well, but its making you work for your fun right enough, the only thing i can see from the pump pics, is the tank feed unions in the pump look very restrictive, at first i thought, easy one, 'spun gears', but i can see they are keyed, so its not that. the pump is having it easy pulling oil from the tank, then struggling to return it, that restrictive size on the return and a high tank position would just be enough to tip the balance, especialy if there are more add ons on the return line with similar sized fittings, 5/8" is the minimum, 3/4" wont hurt, if you run a filter screen on the pickup tube, check it has good clearance to the pick up tube base, i cut these angled to help scavanging, some early engine cases, and most brazil cases, use a too small pick up tube size for dry sump, i also like to run 8lts minimum oil tank vol' on race tracks, as its quite possible to have 3 or 4 ltr 'hidden' in the motor and up the rocker boxes etc with g and braking involved, and then you get tank surge. food for thought anyway.... best regards.
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  #418  
Old December 19th 2012, 17:37
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Thanks for the thoughts! Sorry I have neglected to reply to them. The current oil setup, including the fittings, was modeled after the Huebbe brother's setup. They've been stage rallying their car without oil issues for a few years now, which is why I figured it was the safest way to go. I have been looking into new fittings on the pump, however, as I think you're right...they do look pretty restrictive. Only the fittings on the pump are the steel industrial units, everything else is a proper aluminum -8AN fitting. The steel fittings on the pump are the same fittings the Huebbe's and I have used without problems (until now)...but at this stage I should be tweaking everything I can.

Upon reassembly I obviously measured everything, once again, but this time found one item which I had missed on previous builds. The magnetic drain plug was long enough to be touching the screen. While it *shouldn't* cause a problem, with heat I suppose it's possible that it could have reduced the opening gap for the pickup. Next time I have the engine apart I plan to cut the pickup on an angle to reduce the chances of a occurrence. For now I've tossed a washer in as a spacer. Sometimes the quick fix is just as good. The motor has been back together for two weeks, and I've put almost 2,500km on it. So far the engine has been trouble free, and I'm even letting it idle for short periods while I walk away. I guess you could say I'm testing my luck, but so far there hasn't been any problems.



A new issue, which is probably related, is that the Accusump stopped holding pressure. Now to be fair, I think this was an issue prior to the big failure...but I broke the gauge on the Accusump months ago and haven't fixed it. In order to swap out the gauge I needed to remove the Accusump, so I was simply waiting until an oil change with some time. Over the previous months I've noticed it was slowly leaking down pressure, like if I left the car for a week or more it wouldn't have the pressure to pre-oil. Without having the gauge on the unit I couldn't tell if it was the ball-valve leaking down, or an issue with the Accusump. Once installed with the new gauge, I quickly determined it was leaking down. Within a couple of days of use, it wasn't holding any pressure (or indeed building pressure when the engine was running). A few emails to Canton Racing and it was agreed the internal seals on the piston were probably in need of replacing. Considering I've been using it daily, not really surprised.


The Accusump isn't designed for user-servicing. Canton requires that all units are sent back to the factory, except for a few teams who do refurbish their own. I was given the go-ahead, and a list of mistakes to avoid. But first, one has to create a key to get into the secret vault...



With that done, I popped open the Accusump and immediately found the problem. The first thing they check when rebuilding these units is scoring on the cylinders. If the cylinder is scored, the unit needs to be replaced...and I won the bad-luck lottery. Obviously the Accusump ate some hard particles at some point, which I suppose isn't surprising considering I've roasted a couple of motors with it. The score marks are also on "the bottom" of the cylinder with respects to how I had it mounted, so the particle(s) were probably settled on the bottom and then caught up in the seals.


A few emails back and forth with Canton, and I'm going to need a new Cylinder. Since they don't sell refurbishment parts, that's going to be a challenge as I missed the production run for the year. Hmmmm. They're looking to see if they can find a cosmetic blemish unit, and in the meantime I've decided to clean up the scoring marks. While waiting for the correct sized O-rings, I figured I would try the closest-fit from the local industrial shop, just to see if I'm wasting my time. In went the O-rings, in went the Accusump and voila! Holding pressure...for a while. Interestingly it's now holding oil pressure, but not holding pressure on the air-side of the chamber. I suspect with the proper sized o-rings it will all work as planned. Might make it without a new cylinder after all!


Also started on a new project for the car, I've been getting tired of 'bouncy tach', and tore apart a spare Stewart-Warner performance Tach to start playing around with sizes. It's going to take a bit of work to get it to fit/work in a 914 Tach housing, but i have some ideas on how to make it work.


I also spent some time tuning the gas heater this week. I was having some issues with it cutting out, or taking a long time to fire up. Through adjustments to the flame switch I think I've finally got it running close to factory spec. It now runs continuously without cutting out, which is great. I should be getting just a bit more heat out of it, but my fuel pump adjustment is maxed out. That's the Achilles heel with using a gas heater these days, the pumps aren't available new and everyone I have is just slightly under the factory spec for output.


-Dave
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  #419  
Old December 21st 2012, 02:00
70Turbobug 70Turbobug is offline
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I have the same gas heater and was never able to get it dialed in perfectly.My problem was just the opposite though, it was always running way too rich and bellowing black smoke.My guess is the combustion chamber is corroded.I'm contemplating whether I should overhaul it or not. I will contact Eberspächer here in Germany and find out if there are parts available.I'll let you know what I find out.
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  #420  
Old December 31st 2012, 23:59
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I assume you've tried dropping the fuel flow through the fuel pump adjustment? If you find you need parts let me know, I have another five or six on the shelf and would be ready to split one down for parts.

-----


Back to the beetle!


We've had a fantastic December in the area as far as snow is concerned, which has been fun for the bug and I. Learning the switch from All-Wheel-Drive to RWD has been, uh, interesting...but I've got the hang of it for the most part. I have stuffed good at least once, but following a few snowstorms I'm feeling pretty comfortable up into mid-fourth gear. Now I need to transfer it to more slippery surfaces, as I've got 20 days to ice racing!


Started playing around with the tachometer project, its going to be a little more involved then I anticipated. I need to work out how to remove 3/4" in depth from the Stewart Warner tach internals before moving forward. I think I've figured out how to attach a face-dial, and the Porsche needle will simply need to be drilled out to fit the SW motor.


On the one hand, my motor will definitely be rust free. On the other hand, an oil leak is never appreciated. Turns out the pressure switch was leaking through and out the electrical connection. Rather annoying, as with the Christmas rush it took a couple of days to figure out that simply tightening things up back there wasn't solving the issue! Finally stopped to run the engine while I watched, and the issue was quickly determined (and solved).

...and, yeah. I guess I should include this here too. This was a pretty good Christmas present to get from Stephan Szantai!




-Dave
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