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  #31  
Old July 14th 2006, 22:38
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I have not seen this thread before so I apologize for jumping in late. I like the idea of replacing the leaf springs in the tube with a solid bar to be used as a anti-sway bar. I am no expert on sway bars but is seems like two one inch bars will make it super stiff. You may decide that one bar is plenty. Usually stiff bars are 1 3/4 are used and they have diagonal arms that attach to the A arm on newer cars which provide a lot more leverage to twist the large bar. Have you done anything to stiffen the roll of the rear of the bus? It seems that a lot of anti-roll in the front will cause serious oversteer. Just my two cents, can't wait to hear how it turns out.

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  #32  
Old July 15th 2006, 07:42
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http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...ction=category

Check out the link to the anti-roll bar rate pdf at the top of this page.

I'm thinking threaded rod at the bottom, and one of these modified to work up top.
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  #33  
Old July 15th 2006, 10:39
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Dorigtt, where was this info when I was trying to figure out how to make these stupid things?!?

VERY good link! I could easily use these on a future project. The splined ends offer lots of possibilities.

Mike, I have one made up out of 1" bar stock but have not had it tempered yet or made any type of attaching brackets. YES, definately required to have them at BOTH ends, without a rear, this top-heavy bus would get super squirrelly at speed. Gonna look at the stuff Dorigtt posted and see if some of those pieces can make up something better for the rear.


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  #34  
Old July 15th 2006, 12:26
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Boy it sure is nice to be appreciated for being a web-surfing champion of 'car-porn'!

I plan to make ft and rear antiroll bar setups using their components.
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  #35  
Old July 15th 2006, 19:32
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Very nice arms. I like how the old boss bears load.

Just to make a point about the Red9 kit mentioned earlier, the bars that pass through the torsion housing each have a bearing at each end.

Matt
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  #36  
Old July 16th 2006, 18:15
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Put about 50 miles on the bus today.
Everything about the suspension seems to working as planned. The ride is very firm but not jarring. The new internal bars helped tame the frontend a bunch, not go-cart stiff, but a lot better than before.
Unfortunately it brings to light the other weakness. The steering is pityful. '59 stock bus box trying to swing wide meats, 14 turns lock to lock with a 24 inch steering wheel. It's actually a little scary at speed. I don't really have much of a solution for this part of it.

Oh, and it is still overheating. Just as bad as before I added the second rad and all that work.



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  #37  
Old July 17th 2006, 04:35
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Jeff-
Glad to hear the control arms are holding well.
To bad the heating problem still exists.

I did some research this weekend and I know exactly how I am going to adjust my control arms. That will be a little different like you did.
The same for the internal sway bar, however I do not know exactly how I am going to hold the lower control arms together, but that will find a way out too.

Do you have any pictures of how the set-up looks now? Please post them if so.

Good luck with finding a solution for your heating problem.

Luuk
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  #38  
Old December 11th 2006, 15:54
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My modified control arms:



Last edited by skywalker; January 13th 2007 at 04:57. Reason: changed url of images
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  #39  
Old December 11th 2006, 19:59
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NICE! Looks a lot more elegant than my design. I was trying to find some of the latest pics of mine but will have to post them later.


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  #40  
Old December 12th 2006, 12:40
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Thanks Jeff,

This is how it looked like, before welding:




Now I have to find a solution for my internal sway bar...

Luuk

Last edited by skywalker; January 13th 2007 at 04:58. Reason: changed url of images
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  #41  
Old December 12th 2006, 12:47
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That is one clean set-up Skywalker! Great job! :agree:
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  #42  
Old December 12th 2006, 15:17
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Really nice!
Look at the link Dorigtt listed. They have a series of the bars with the splined ends, you could have the arms splined to match or just have a small splined collar made and weld it to the arm. Have the rods just long enough to stick through the new collar on the end to accept a c clip.


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