Which do you think makes the car look more GL?

[oicdn]

Wow...what an endeavor.

Sandeep, you said you're using a 3" narrowed beam, and 2 inch fenders...my newbie math equates that to 7 inches of increased space. Max struts with 2.5 fenders should work right? I just don't want to order something, then find out it's too narrow and be broke to buy the other ones, lol.

Money is tight...I'm oh so squeezing this by, lol.

[Sandeep]

Nope .... 3" Dropped beam, not narrowed and 2" wide fenders.

If I drop the beam all the way, the tire presses on the headlight buckets ... looks BAD A$$ but I'd rip out the headlights over the first bump

Raising the beam gives me suspension travel, and the tire is covered by the fender nicely, and nothing rubs when I corner hard.

I'm not sure how wide of a fender you are going to need. What I did to choose my setup was to install my wheels/tires and brakes under stock fenders and then measure how wide I needed to go. check the details here ... http://www.germanlook.com/Forums/showthread.php?t=175 You may try www.glass-action.com for some fender options ... I ordered their 2" fronts and was pleased with the quality.

Sandeep

[oicdn]

What the differences in clearance between your set-up and a Super with Max struts? Example is our cars. Same wheels and width/offset....what's the difference in clearance bewteen a Super w/Maxx and a STD?

The only problem with measuring once the wheels, and ordering fenders later is it's a daily driver. You can see how this is causing a problem, lol. Double edged sword how I' need to do everything at once = a good before/after comparo. But It makes for one hell of a PITA to source all the parts BEFORE hand....

Thanks for all the help...this is making things a ton easier....only thing I'm looking at now is the 299mm 87 944T brakes looking "lost" under such a big wheel, even worse on the rear....

[rip]

I'd wait until you get responces from the super guys, the std and super differ in track width, how the suspension moves etc...so the comparision will be difficult.

have you tried the super beetles only forums? theres a big one that most of the guy here with supers visit I'd give them a try, probably help you out beter then trying to figure out how the std and super compare

[oicdn]

I've had an account at SBO.com forums for quite some time, but never posted there....tech info didn't seem as replied to as over here. That and the fact that there's like NO TRAFFIC wouldn't really help much. I've just posted a topic there just like 2 seconds ago asking.

[rip]

oh hey what about post another topic here, may be people look at the title " Which do you think makes the car look more GL? " even though the subject matter has changed, may be that will attract more people. Though I must admitt this forum in particular is a bit slow anyways.

But yea I too drive my project as a daily driver, Hey if you want I can email you a excel spread sheet, its the one I was using to calc my difference in turning, i made it for my std bug, but should work for a super.

What it does is compare the stock rim to the new rim. you can add things like spacers and stuff and it calc where the edges of the wheel move. If you want it email me and I'll give you a watered down version so you can play with it if need be. Just remeber its just a tool and there are no guarantees. As i don't know if it would intefer with things like head lights or the front sway bar etc... it just tells you where you are at WRT the stock rim.

Frankly its a lot like the offset calcutor in the sticky post but I've added stuff. let me know

easy
Rip

[oicdn]

I'll just change the topic to "8.5 wheel offset on a super.." Thanks for the recommendation :agree:

Went around tell me if this sounds right....

Quote from topline parts about thier maxx strut:

Allows the mounting of huge 16 and 17 inch diameter deep offset rims. New 80mm springs give MAXXimum clearance, and MAXXimum handling for your Super! With this new strut, you can fit up to 7 inch rims under your stock fender! Our current test car is fitted with Toyo 205/40-17 tires front, and 235/45-17 tires in the rear. It's a close tolerance fit, but it works!

Your installation will require carefull planning, as the kit will only work with rims with 5 1/2 to 6 inch back spacing (approximately 50 to 55mm offset). Longer wheel studs and wheel spacers will probably be necessary.

So, with that said. The stock hubs machined from Vdub increases your offset +2mm per side. I talked to Lanner and he said with the billet hub, it increases it further by +.50 to .60 per side.

So, if I can fit a 7 inch tire under a stock fender with stock drum brakes, with the Machined Porsche kit OR billet hub conversion, a 2in fender kit with Maxx struts should be fine with a 8.5 inch front rim..it'll be nice and flush.

It's only a 1.5 inch wheel width increase(and still mantaining a 52mm offset), as even with the billet hub adding 2.6mm of total track width, that's still only 7/64ths of an inch....

So:
Maxx struts + 8.5inch rim = 2in (2.5 at the very most) fender required lol

Unless, my captian obvious math is all jacked, lol

Now...should be fun getting all this ordered....

[oasis]

Originally Posted by oicdn

The Porsche Comp. REALLY DIG the look. DEEP dish makes the car look thicker. And it doesn't look like the cheesy cheap BBS wheels you commonly see.

Cheesy cheap?

These look like the BBS LM rims which costs $1584 for the front two (18x8) and $1692 for the rear two (18x9½) for a Porsche Boxter. If nearly $3300 for rims alone are cheesy cheap, I need to rob a few more banks. (I thought BBS made wheels for VW, Audi, BMW, Mercedes and Porsche as well as bonafide open- and close-wheel race cars.)

[oicdn]

I know BBS makes some sick wheels, but I'm tlaking about the most common BBS wheel you find on crap today....





You see those on every old Corolla or Camry out there. I dunno why the Euro guys have such a fascination with them either...you seem those wheels ALL OVER THE PLACE in the VW magazines on Jettas, Golfs and whatever other car in like 14" size with tires that are too narrow for the rim and really low profile...yuck.

[rip]

okay so here's my calcs

with the struts allowing only 6" of bcksp (~152.4mm)
then assuming your billet hub increase width by .55" (~14mm)

okay so lets look at your wheels 8.5" (~215.9mm)
ET is 52mm
center is 108.0
assuming a 12.7mm bead lip
your bcksp is 172.7mm
your frntsp is 68.7mm

Now the stock ones 4" (~101.6mm)
ET is 40mm
center is 50.8
assuming a 12.7mm bead lip
stock bcksp is 103.5mm
stock frntsp is 23.5mm

with the brakes your bcksp will be 172.7mm-14mm=158.7mm
now 158.7mm is about 6mm more than the allowed 6" of bcksp so see if Lanner can make those hubs a bit wider or use spacer

Now for the front 68.7mm+14mm=82.7mm and comparing that to the stock front space of 23.5 your over by 82.7-23.5=59.2mm which is a little bit more than 2", by about 8.3mm.

So if you want a slightly tucked look 4.4mm in compared to stock or a little bit pushed out look of 8.3mm compared to stock, it up to you, but this will all change with the brake's spacing.

good luck

[rip]

Originally Posted by oicdn

So, with that said. The stock hubs machined from Vdub increases your offset +2mm per side. I talked to Lanner and he said with the billet hub, it increases it further by +.50 to .60 per side.

It's only a 1.5 inch wheel width increase(and still mantaining a 52mm offset), as even with the billet hub adding 2.6mm of total track width, that's still only 7/64ths of an inch....

So:
Maxx struts + 8.5inch rim = 2in (2.5 at the very most) fender required lol

how did you get 2.6mm additional track? is track taken from centerline of the wheel or outside end of the tire?

Think it's taken from outside of the tire, in which case you'd be looking at almost a 5" increase. plus the increase of scrub.

[oicdn]

Maybe I'm confused with offset and track increase....I know on his site, the machined/modified 944T hubs increase track by +2mm

Here's the eMail about the billet hubs and machine work:

Nate,

Billet hubs with brackets and spindle machine work (if required). would be $C650. I can make hubs and brackets that would bolt on, but there would be an offset increase of about .55-.65" per side. If you don't want so much offset increase, the I have to machine the spindle.

If you supply the hubs, all the work (including spindle work) is $309.

All prices Canadian $'s.

Lanner

here's the last eMail I got from him about the offset spacing and spindle machining:

Nate,

If you want the high offset setup, then I can make bolt on caliper brackets and hence no spindle machining. They would work with stock drum spindles.

If you want low offset, then I'd have to machine the spindles. The price is the same either way. With the low offset setup, the disk is very close to the spindle (about 1mm) so there physically isn't any room for bolt on bracket, hence spindle machining.

Easy,
Lanner

So, I'de want the "no spindle machining" and billet hub option to have the most clearance, right?

Arghhh.....my head hurts. Maybe we're over analyzing this, lol

[rip]

I'd get ahold of the guys at Topline and confirm exactly how much backspacing you can use. If 6 is still okay or is it already at the boarder of "your going to rub at extreme motions of the suspension". If 6" is already at an extreme I'd try to atleast hit that not over. But this may not be the case it might be Topline saying "hey this works but we don't want to be responsible if somthing happens, though 6.5" is still okay".

Remember too that 6mm is the wheel into the springs not including tire bludge. The tires tend to buldge a little about 1/4 inch or so this needs to be taken into account to. Because these strut dicate your requirements I'd get as much info on them as possible, how much is exactly too much. Once we have this the rest is just full-filling those requirements.

But did you understand my calcs?

Yea okay, so I looked at Lanners site. Those measurements he gives you are track increase pre side. So .6"mm wider on each side.

You want the ones that will increase the track the most, it seems like the bolt on brackets and the billet hubs will do that, but this by my calcs may not be enough, that extra 6mm remember?

So may be talk to him and see if he can increase the hubs to provide more of an increase or, just get the stock hubs modified and use a spacer.

This way you have the increase of the stock kit which is 2mm, then save some cash and spend it on some spacers.

Choice is really yours, the real problem with all of this is that it works okay on paper may not be what actually fits. But all of these questions being ask are along the right track. I spent a lot of time working out the details to make my setup, and though it may not be perfect I know it will be better than those who didn't.

But to do this right you need to know what your dealing with, you need the requirements. There is one option here that no one has said yet, may be try and get smaller rims. I know the apeal of larger rims, but with the 8.5 on a super it's sort of new territory. I don't own a super, and frankly math is easy, but me not having experience with a super you'd probably be better off talking to someone who has done this successfully.

Oh yea and the over analyzing thing well yea...when I started doing this I got some weird advice and some completely wrong information. One guy argured with me that a larger offset with spacers is the way to go, after I explained to him why its good, he realized that my point, that a wheel with less offset is just as good and eliminates the need for a spacer. The main problem with this stuff is that we can't go to far in, so if you want wider wheels, well, you gotta move the wheel out. In particular the stds can handle things differently as now you can use large spacers and then narrow the beam to make up for the inceased track, but supers are a different beast. Just remember sometimes just fitting isn't enough, you may want to turn to.

easy
Rip

[oicdn]

Talked to the guys at Topline. They said that 50-55mm backspacing (5 1/2 to 6in) is on a 7in wheel under a stock fender. I'm confused...52mm offset regardless of the total size of the wheel is still 52mm from the rear...so I should be ok right? He said he's never seen anybody with anything wider than 7in in the front

Eitherway, he said I will need to stay under 6 inches of back spacing as that puts the bulge of the tire right up near the spring. So, yeah, 6 inches is the absolute most you can go with... So atleast that gives us a DEFINITE in all of this. So, what's the backspacing in inches on a 8.5 wheel with 52mm offset(should still be like 6 inches...but I figured I'de ask, lol)? Once we get that figured, I'll know exactly what I'll need.

I've been scouring eBay for spacers. $150-200 for a pair on average for the 15mm needed for the rear which are another definite expense. If I get the billet hubs this eliminates a TON OF work and money. Reason? I haven't bought the front Porsche hubs yet, so that saves me money. I don't have to buy spacersfor the front if Lanner can machine the hubs to spec so I have slightly less than 6in of back spacing. Also, I won't have to ship my spare spindles to him, saving me more money....

I'm starting to breathe a little easier, :righton:

[oicdn]

Also, I went to that wheel calculator thing stickied in the top[ of this forum. I have no Idea the offset/size of Empi 8spokes, so I guessed:

Current Wheel Width 6 inches Current Wheel Offset 45mm
New Wheel Width 8.5 inches New Wheel Offset 52 mm

Your new wheel will have the following chracteristics:
The clearance from stut housing to the inside of the wheel will be 39mm LESS
The outside edge of the wheel will EXTEND an extra 25mm

Even still with those calculation of a probably wrong figure on my current wheels, a stock super coil is 123mm. Maxx struts coils are 80mm...that's a 43mm gain...that's more than the 39 required...

That also doesn't account for the increase that the 944T brakes give....

Maybe I'm wrong, but I dunno how a 52mm offset is different on 7 inch wheel than it is on a 8.5 inch wheel...it's still 52mm offset from the inside lip...

So...I wouldn't need a spacer...just wider fenders.......right?