GermanLook Forums  

Go Back   GermanLook Forums > Technical Section > Suspension

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #16  
Old February 11th 2012, 08:47
volksmeister volksmeister is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Singapore
Posts: 20
Alex is helping me with a steel arm version for my uniball setup.. a real standup guy with plenty of good ideas to offer
Spoke to him about the possible water ingress into the torsion tube from the rear wheels spinning and the idea of maybe using the OE springplate bushings as a water stop.. (although an old rag and some sealant would probably do the trick too). He quickly put the idea into 3D in a blink of an eye.. great collaboration
Between the monsoon season and high local humidity we get over here, it seems like a good idea
__________________
Be water, my friend..
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old February 11th 2012, 12:41
-Alex- -Alex- is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Finland
Posts: 278
Yes, it is easiest to use stock TB rubber bushing as a seal, but i dont think it needs any more support.

I plan to make M10 bolt holes small as possible, maybe 10,2 or 10,5mm, so there would be less slop.

Also if making from 7075 T6, whole system can be little slimmer, due to the strength of the 7075.


How much should there be distance from the housing cover inner surface to arm attachment surface? Springplate is 4mm thick, maybe this is about 5mm?


One my finnish vw fellow said that these uniball systems would last longer, if at the inner pivot would have bronze bushing or bearing instead of rubber / urethane bushing, but wonder how rough the ride would be then

Last edited by -Alex-; February 11th 2012 at 12:50.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old February 11th 2012, 14:19
Humble's Avatar
Humble Humble is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Boulder Creek, CA
Posts: 758
Can you take credit cards?

Also is there enough room in the design to countersink the allen bolts fully or even partially?
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old February 11th 2012, 19:24
owdlvr's Avatar
owdlvr owdlvr is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Canada - West Coast
Posts: 851
Quote:
Originally Posted by -Alex- View Post
Yes, it is easiest to use stock TB rubber bushing as a seal, but i dont think it needs any more support.

The off-road guys (Class 11), have found the four mounting bolts shear out of the Torsion Bar housing, which is why they recommend a section of tubing goes into the TB housing (without bushing) to eliminate the stress on the mounting bolts. I'll be the first to admit yours are far nicer then mine, but this shows the tube we welded to the backside:



I suppose the argument that the on-road forces aren't as strong is a somewhat valid one...but add loads of grip such as in a track setting and I suspect you'd be seeing similar load values, just on a more progressive curve.

-Dave
__________________
'71 Type 1 - Rally Project
'58 Type 1 - I bought an early!?!
'73 Type 1 - Proper Germanlook project
'68 Type 1 - Interm German 'look' project
'75 Type 1 - Family Heirloom
'93 Chevy 3500 pickup - Cummins Swap
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old February 12th 2012, 04:45
-Alex- -Alex- is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Finland
Posts: 278
Sorry,

Only money transfer and paypal

There might be room for countersink the allen bolts, but i have too see if its still as strong.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Humble View Post
Can you take credit cards?

Also is there enough room in the design to countersink the allen bolts fully or even partially?
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old February 12th 2012, 07:35
beetle1303 beetle1303 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Athens Greece
Posts: 303
Alex, nice results. great work.
I would prefer having a tube without the stock bushing in place, since water ingression is apparent after a while, and it gives better load spread capabilities.

I would try to make a rubber flange to put between the inner part and the mounting face.

owdlvr, you got it right, off road sees a very high peak load ie when landing after a jump but an easier life cycle ie while sliding on gravel and on road sees a harder life cycle since there is much more grip and track cars have the hardest continuous life cycle due to extreme grip offered at the track

Chris
__________________
Aircooled 4ever

1973 1303 going towards GL
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old February 12th 2012, 21:38
randyj randyj is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 90
Would you be able to use the torsion bars with your set up?

Randy
__________________
Unix is a "user friendly" operating system. Its just a little particular who it is friendly to.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old February 12th 2012, 22:58
owdlvr's Avatar
owdlvr owdlvr is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Canada - West Coast
Posts: 851
Quote:
Originally Posted by randyj View Post
Would you be able to use the torsion bars with your set up?

Randy
Nope.

The whole point of these items are to create a pivot when eliminating the Torsion Bars.

-Dave
__________________
'71 Type 1 - Rally Project
'58 Type 1 - I bought an early!?!
'73 Type 1 - Proper Germanlook project
'68 Type 1 - Interm German 'look' project
'75 Type 1 - Family Heirloom
'93 Chevy 3500 pickup - Cummins Swap
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old February 13th 2012, 06:31
volksmeister volksmeister is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Singapore
Posts: 20
Alex, can the inner bearing plate be machined to close off the gap (red arrow) between the inner mounting surface and the rear shock tower?


__________________
Be water, my friend..
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old February 13th 2012, 07:59
-Alex- -Alex- is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Finland
Posts: 278
Possibly, like this, but i dont know the depth of the gap. Do you prefer this or earlier designed system with OE rubber bushing acting as seal?

Also, do you want to be the system made out of 7075 or 6082/S355?



Last edited by -Alex-; February 13th 2012 at 10:34.
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old February 13th 2012, 10:32
-Alex- -Alex- is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Finland
Posts: 278
How much should this dimension be? Its the gap between springplate and stock springplate cover. I am thinking maybe 0,5mm.

Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old March 2nd 2012, 12:12
Turbonutta Turbonutta is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: at home
Posts: 119
Alex they look awesome out of interest what the shipping cost to uk PM me if you like, many thanks
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old March 3rd 2012, 17:15
-Alex- -Alex- is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Finland
Posts: 278
Shipping costs are:

1. Sweden, Denmark, Germany and Estonia 28 euros

2. Spain, UK, Ireland, Italy, Austria, Greek, Poland, Portugal and France 40 euros.

3. Usa, Kanada, Iceland, Canary Islands, Norway, Switzerland and Russia 56 euros

4. Australia, Japan, China, Hong-kong, Thailand, other Asian destinations and New Zealand 65 euros
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old April 5th 2012, 14:34
-Alex- -Alex- is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Finland
Posts: 278
This kit is specially made for volksmeister, feels kinda tougher than remmele one, but actually lighter because its fully made out of 7075 aluminum.





Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old April 5th 2012, 14:36
Wally's Avatar
Wally Wally is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,552
Very nice!
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 18:24.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
© www.GermanLook.net 2002-2017. All Rights Reserved