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  #16  
Old May 11th 2007, 00:46
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Considering we both dont live in Ipswich we sure live close lives. I've got a type 3 shifter and short shifter plate on the way.

Well guess what Aus Super. German auto dismantlers 6 months later have posted the missing items over , after Richard from V-forced got me the missing parts .

In 2 weeks im going to checker plate (diamond plate?) the front floor infront of the drivers seat up to the front fire wall. I was going to cut out the section and leave 1-2cm around the edge to silicon and pop rivot it all down. Will i loose any strength from the seat mounts?
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  #17  
Old May 11th 2007, 09:13
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was taking the girl to the shops, she felt like getting an ipod, why are you putting the checker plate on the floor exactly? moisture between the two could be a future issue, and seat mounts loosing strenght doubtful, not from how im picturing in my head, it wount touch the seat rails so should have no affect. still dont see why you would do it tho... other than looking neater than the stock floorpan, in my experience checkerplate or any alloy on the floor or those "racing pedals" can be abit slippery so im not a fan from what ive driven, just a thought, slipping feet can be very bad thats all.
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  #18  
Old May 14th 2007, 01:43
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Just drove the 1302 properly for the first time on saturday. After a bit of a tune up, turned out cylinder three spark plug was very fowled and the lead was burnt/carbonized. Boy did it run a hell of a lot better.

Took it for a drive on the high way. Engine was good, suspention was stuffed, i think the front left is dry as.

Pulled into the servo to put some fuel in thought i would check the engine was still ok. The two oil stripes that went all the way from were i had been to the pool below my car told me it wasnt. Checked the dip stick i had used maybe a third from high to low on the stick in 20min. So i filled it up again and drove home.

I think the rear main oil seal is gone. I will check/replace it on the weekend as well as change the suspention to 1303 in preperation for the 944 turbo set up.
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  #19  
Old May 15th 2007, 04:10
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you have the tool to replace the seal? it can be easily damaged when installed so im told from 100s of people... my super ran on 3cyl for awhile, amazing what happens when it runs properly tho, you have power haha. sounds good, will keep my ears & eyes out for it round the place then.
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  #20  
Old May 16th 2007, 06:32
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Howd ya get your pics on

Hey can you let me know how to get pics up like you have done ,mabe private message me so as not to bore others,thanks mate JS
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  #21  
Old June 4th 2007, 08:05
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I'm not working on weekends any more and now Ive got time to work on my car. So i installed my 5in Speco tacho. I love it, it makes me like my car so much more. The needle is very jumpy maybe Ive got dirty points?
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  #22  
Old June 4th 2007, 08:46
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Ive had to take the engine out to fix the rear main oil seal and replace the fly wheel o ring. I thought that this would be a good oppertunity to replace the suspect engine mounts.

yeah it looked like they needed to be replaced to.

I think the technical term was engine rests.

Red New parts just look great!
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  #23  
Old June 4th 2007, 08:55
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I also got my hands on a shift kit and type 3 shifter.

You can see the type 3 on the bottom of the picture with the bent back rod and the pin to keep it in location.

This is the selecter rod from the Type 1.
This one is after i cut a slot for the T3 pin. I took my time to try and make it a nice snug fit. I used a 1mm cutting disc on an angle grinder.

This is how Ive tried to put the shifter in, I don't know that it is right. I think it was actually upside down, it was slipping into reverse when going for 2nd from 3rd previously. The metal tabs are bending down now.

Sorry about the photos, I only have my Mobile to take pictures with.
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  #24  
Old June 4th 2007, 09:24
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I fitted the new bushes. I removed the sway bar ones by going very slowly with a hack saw to cut the steel ring that is pressed in from factory, after drilling out all the rubber. I then used a vice to press in the new ones.



All fitted up easy up untill i went to install the 1303 struts. Turns out you need the 1302 Thrust bearing caps (the top of the strut). The thread on the top of the 1303 strut was not as long as the 1302 so i tosed two washes and the large one that must be like for the bump stop and it all went to gether nicely.

I must note that the springs are quite soft and i didnt use a spring compressor, to disassemble or reassemble (although it did take to people to reassemble).
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  #25  
Old June 4th 2007, 09:27
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By now i was in the mode and decided to remove the bumpers and make a tidier front number plate bracket. I just cut two strips of aluminum 185mm long 80mm wide by 1.6mm? thick, stuck them in a vice. Bent them by hand and them used a raw hide mallet to get a nice ninty degree bend. dilled the holes, rivoted them together, fitted the number plate and attached to the car. I had to elongate on of the hole to get it to fit. Im happy with the result. Ill do the back next week when i can afford a LED light.

the rivots

back view (before i elongated the rear most hole)


Fitted, nice and snug.

The left hand ball joint turned out to be stuffed so ill have to take a look at that.
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  #26  
Old June 4th 2007, 09:29
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Now my beetle is awaiting next week end, when the boot lid gets a coat of black (mostly to hide the dirty yellow it currently is). A new shift rod tube bush, having gear selection problems (probably because the plate is still in wrong) and apparently i wasnt supposed to clean all the grease off, opps.
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