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I'm not sure about reaversing the rear mount. I think you gain about 2". I'm sure it would help, but the belt covers would still be close for clearance. Quote:
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Mike '04 R32 Tornado Red '02 New Beetle TDI - Daily driver '64 Ghia - Project!!-Subaru EJ20T, MS/EDIS, 993 brakes, 914 Tranny... |
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If I mid mounted a Scooby I would use a Subaru trans locked to FWD, much easier and cheaper!
The engine DOES fit under stock bodywork with the cradle reversed (gain just under 2" depending on cradle), I and many others have done it. You can destroy built gearboxes wiht stock engines, it all depends on how you drive. For fast starts preload the gears, no dumping the clutch on every opportunity and it will last a reasonable amount of time. Just choose the right gearing (ie long) and 4 gears isn't a problem at all, turbos like somethign to work against. I'd be nervous about coolant lines in the channels, if they leak how do you replace them?! Rich
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Okay, this is the deal. I Originally wanted to build a tube frame mid engined chassis for a G50 or similar, a 400bhp small block chevy, full custom double wishbone chassis and mount my '64 body to it all..... I have nursed this dream for nearly 10 years now whilst life has happened.
Upon reflection though, I have woken up to the realisation that my name isn't Boyd Coddington, I don't have his facilities, and I certainly don't have the Discovery Channel funding the idea, so until I can afford to get someone to build it for me, it can sit on the shelf for a few more years? Now I'm back in the real world with my modest budget, modest skills and single garage, it would seem a Scooby conversion is a much more realistically achievable project given my budget, facilities and space. My aim is to have a immaculately presented conversion, sort of a resto cal sleeper that may sit in the garage for a few weeks at a time but comes out for a play on sunny days and the occaisional show, with a dozen or so RWYB runs up the strip - without breaking. No burn outs, no dough-nuts but occasional fair but firm use. I won't be side stepping the clutch at 6k on slicks, or power shifting without the clutch, but in the same breath, I don't want to go to all the time and trouble of building something that I need to tread on egg shells with in case I break it? Hope that makes sense? Also, is my theory correct here?.... I think it is much better to start with the most powerful standard engine I can find, than to start with a weaker motor and have to tune it later? My intention would be to use an STi unit 280bhp + from the get go. For the difference in cost, later tuning doesn't seam worth it over starting with the big guns in the first place? |
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TL, those are all very achieveable goals.
My first engine choice was a Type-4, but being a College student with a modest budget. I can't very well sit around 2 or 3 years while I save cash for the engine. I decided to go with a Subaru because of the out of box power you get. They were built to go 100,000+ miles with 200+ hp. I ended up buying mine for about $1,000 JDM. You can't touch a big T-1 or a big T-4 for a $1,000. Your transmission criteria makes perfect sense. I'd like the same type of transmission myself. I'm using a 914 right now. But I'm not sure how well 1st will hold up. I want the best for the money, and I'd rather do it right the first time then have to redo it later. I believe, it is a shared opinion among us water converters to use a much stronger engine to start with. If you like being under the hood of your bug often. Then a big T-1 or a big T-4 might be good. But if you want to hop in it and drive, with an unbelieveable amount of HP and Tourqe. Subaru. As for later tuning. Ummm... if 200hp in a bug is crazy. Then 300hp in a bug is insane! To help keep cost down, you can always leave it stock for now. Then tune later, also if you think you want to tune it later. Go with an aftermarket ecu over the stock unit. They're about the same cost, but the aftermarket is tuneable later. I read somewhere. Power, Reliability, and Cost. Now pick two. I'm trying to find the best of all three.
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Mike '04 R32 Tornado Red '02 New Beetle TDI - Daily driver '64 Ghia - Project!!-Subaru EJ20T, MS/EDIS, 993 brakes, 914 Tranny... |
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Sounds like a typical contractor - Cheap, fast, quality - pick two....
I think we're on the same page re trannies. So, what do people recommned for the power / use discussed? Is there a type one tranny spec that will give good long reliable service with the above duty? And if so, what spec? I sense 'G50' on the horizon? |
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If you speak to a transmission builder I doubt any would sell you a type 1 for those power levels with any kind of back-up. It would be straight to Mendeola and $£$£
But, the fact is that plenty do last quite well. Unless you go slicks or abuse it a type 1 would last well, but if you want a guarantee just bite the bullet and go G50 and you will be safe for 600bhp+ Rich
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