Bugged Build Thread

[cookvw]

well i must say that after my fenders i bought about a month ago from markVfiberglass, i WISH i would have just went with the Kerscher fenders. i just posted pics of my fenders i got in my build thread on here. i got them cause their the closest thing i could find state side that looked like the kerscher fenders i paid $740 shipped to my work. i have about 80hrs into them just to get them to work/look right. ill never again buy a product from markvfiberglass.

i must agree, stance is everything, thats also why i love the german look style. ive been inlove with the style ever since i saw it in a old vw performance book i had when i was 16yrs old. ever since then its been my dream to build and own a proper awesome german look. cal look is sooooooooooooooooooooo over done. one thing i dont like about hot vw's mag... all they seem to cover is cal look. IMO. well congrats on the awesome fenders. keep up the progress.

[Bugged]

Thanks Cook, I'm really trying to make some moves on the car after being a bit stagnant for a while. Going to pull the trigger on a DTM cooling system soon if I hear back from Raby on the forums that my engine in fact can run the system.

Another note, I have a very slow leak from the drain plug of my 911 transmission. A drop develops on the bottom of the transmission over a period of a couple days. Any suggestions as to remedy this? Let it sit? Supposedly they don't usually leak since trans fluid is so dense.

[cookvw]

I'd try Teflon tape to see if that helps.

[NO_H2O]

Drain, clean/degrease both surfaces, locktite 518 to the treads and fill-er-up.

[wrenchnride247]

Teflon tape is best used on household plumbing Liquid thread sealers are the way to go in automotive apps.

[Bugged]

Just ordered a V2 DTM kit from Jake Raby! Now I just have to wait... That's ok because I have a ton to get down before then anyway.

Opinions on external oil coolers with electric fan? Placement?

[Bugged]

Also, my motor was built, bench dyno'd and initial break in, and then it sat in an airconditioned garage for 15 years. It was turned over a couple times a year. It was recommended to me that I replace the valve springs in case they have "dead spots" in them from sitting in one position for so long.

Is this recommended? Necessary?

What other things should I be thinking about before I start this engine? Before I install the cooling shroud?

[NO_H2O]

I would not replace the valve springs. You did turn it a couple times a year. I would turn it over with the spark plugs out until you indicate oil pressure. Maybe repeat that a coupe times. Then start it and run it up to 2500 rpm for 10-15 minutes. Make sure you use an oil with the proper ZZDP levels.

[Bugged]

How do I know what the right zddp levels are? I was reading that zddp over 1200ppm can be damaging to the cam, causing spalling. I also read that higher performance motors who change the oil regularly after each event often use higher zddp level due to the increased pressures of higher spring rates.

Any suggestion on a good oil to do an initial re-break in? Should I break it in, drain the oil, and change oils? What do people commonly use, for break in and for normal use?

Also, would it not be a good safety measure to just replace the valve springs? Wouldn't the potential consequences of having a bad valve be valve float which could cause catastrophic damage? How difficult is it to replace the springs? Are there other things to adjust once the valve springs are replaced?

This car has been a learning experience for me the entire time, and these forums have provided invaluable help. The engine is the final frontier for me and I know I have a LOT to learn. I appreciate all the help everyone has given me this far!

-Zach

[Bogara_ZO]

I'm also interested in this zddp thing. Is it necessary just for the brake-in period or always onwards?

[NO_H2O]

Good reading on oil. http://http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
1200 ppm is a good guideline for the minimum ZDDP level to use in a flat tappet engine.

[Bugged]

I rebuilt my Super Beetle steering box today.



Ordered new seals online. If anyone is wondering, the super beetle steering box oil seals are made by Federal Mogul, National Oil Seals. The sizes are listed below both in metric and american. You can search for them using the metric sizing. You can also get them from SKF at NAPA but you will need the part number.

28x40x7 (1.102"x1.575"x.276")

18x30x7 (.709"x1.181"x.276")



I filled the box up with transmission oil, Swepco 201, and so far no leaks.

I still can't remove all the play from the box. The tolerances seem to get tighter when the steering is dead center. So when the pitman arm is all the way left or right, there is play, but as you approach center, the play disappears. I inspected the worm gear and roller and they seemed in pretty good condition. There is no axial play in either of the shafts. I was wondering if this was a design in the gear box so that there is no play in the steering wheel when driving straight. Per the Bentley manual you are supposed to adjust the "worm to roller" lash when the wheels are turned at a 45 degree angle. If I adjust the lash so there is no play in the pitman arm at 45 degrees, the gear box locks up as it approaches center and I can't turn it. It is apparently supposed to be smooth throughout the rotation with no play in the pitman arm.

[Bugged]

Hey Guys,

I'm looking at gauges right now... I really like these, what do you think? I am still looking around but I will likely have a similar set up as I do not have a dash.



Should I go all mechanical gages? What is the benefit of electric? Will the electric sending units even work with our cars? I was thinking of wiring a microprocessor (Arduino) into one of the terminal blocks of the Watson Wiring kit i was going to use. This way I could use one terminal to power an assortment of switches, power electric gauges, LED lighting, and any other cool project I can think of.

Any input? The VDO gauges aren't doing it for me... Except for those damn North Hollywood Gauges! Hot damn those Red GT3 RS gauges are the sexiest thing I have ever seen.

[NO_H2O]

Autometer makes nice stuff. They have a good selection of senders except for CHT (the last time I looked). You can use a Westach CHT gauge and sender and paint the rim with aluminum paint and it will blend in.
Be sure to look at Westach gauges. I love their dual and quad gauges for saving space.

[Bugged]

Do I need to run a CHT on each cylinder? If I just wanted to run a dual CHT gauge, which cylinders would I put the sensors on? Was it Cylinder #3 that runs the hottest? Should I put the sensors on #3 and #4 so I can see the delta between those two? This concerns me because then I have no information about the right side of the engine... Those quad CHT sensors are expensivo!