Race Motor Build-up

[Humble]

UPS came by with a couple of big boxes that I emptied onto the living room floor


Back to the motor, I did final assembly, sealing the barrels to the block with some high temp copper permatex and safety wiring the cool tins in place



The EFI turbo kit from CB came with a thin line oil sump so than went on with the extention for the oil pickup.


Close up of the 90 degree turbo oil return


Before bolting the heads on for the last time, I made sure to drill and tap the head by #3 and install the cylinder head temp sensor. This is for the fuel injection computer. For running a gauge I suggest a thermistor/washer that goes around a spark plug which will give a better temp reading.


When I tried fitting the header, I ran into this problem. No way to get the nut on and fully seat the flange so I trimmed the stud on the white line.

[Humble]

But that wasn't enough because I still couldn't get a nut on the thing. I wound up having to "persuade" the pipe with a hammer and drift to get additional clearance.




Finally got the exhaust on and J-pipes in. You can also see the T adapter with the oil pressure sender, and the new HEI dizzy that came with the kit. Under the 1-2 side you can see the big external wastegate.

[Humble]

Mounted the turbo... "It's F-in' huge" is an understatement. It's also really heavy. The turbo is a t04s cold side with a really big t3 hot side. It's kind of a tight fit to get the oil line routed away from the exhaust and the turbo, luckily that line goes out to the filters, cooler, and tank.






Here's a couple shots underneath for the turbo drain. Pretty damn close to the exhaust again.

[Humble]

Manifolds and throttle bodies in place. I think these are the same size as weber 48's, no venturis needed.




Now everything mocked up




At the moment I'm missing a set of pics that fall between this point and getting the motor in the car. I'm still trying to track them down and they might be on my friends camera.

[piledriver]

Beautiful build!!!

(Apologies in advance as you probably know this, but mentioning it just in case)

...a word of warning about the dist drive issue you had...

You really need to VERY carefully inspect the brass drive gear on the crank.
What you described happening may have dorked up the brass gear, and it can///will cause serious problems if even slightly bent.

The drive gear is first out/last in, and NEVER in place if the flywheel comes off, as in setting end play and such...

[johnnyvee]

super sweet build my dream motor in the works, super jealous. Hope it sounds sweet

[Kafer_Mike]

Originally Posted by Humble

Great build overview and pictures. One thing you might consider is relocating your oil pressure sending unit. If that is an Autometer piece, they don't seem to like vibration -- at least mine didn't. I ended up remote mounting mine under the parcel tray using a feed line off the tee (same as you did for the turbo oil feed). I've seen other mounted on the firewall or on the side of the engine bay...

[wrenchnride247]

Great build going on.

A tip on getting that nut on the header. You can slide the flange on just enough for a few threads to show through, and start your nut on that one before the rest. (you didn't have to cut the stud)

[Humble]

Piledriver: I noticed that as well... for other reasons the motor had to come apart again and go back together so I checked the brass gear before reassembly. I didn't know about the last in/first out bit but it makes a lot of sense in retrospect.

Johnnyvee: oh there will be videos for everyone to see when this thing hits the dyno and in car footage shortly there after.

Kafer_Mike: I hadn't heard of problems with the oil pressure sender so thats good to know. Unfortunately mounting options are very limited because of intakes, cooling or lack of body work to attach it to. I'd also be worried about lower readings with a longer feed line as well. I'll definitely keep an eye on it though.

wrenchnride247: It's not really shown in the pic but when the header is on correctly (it wasn't for the pic) the exhaust stud was too long and the flange didn't touch the head. So I convinced the exhaust and head to play nice before ceramic coating, rather than scratch it off on assembly. For what it's worth, it was a real pain getting that nut on there during the build up but even worse trying to get it on there with the header wrap in place.

[petevw]

Awesome thread!

thanks,

[Wally]

Nice build! I am sure that engine will absolutely rip when done and tuned.

Please try to keep inlet temps down as much as you can! I can't stress enough the importance of an intercooler of some sort or use water/mix injection. Maybe a future update

Maybe you already mentioned this, but why do you use an extra sump plate when you have a dry-sump pump on there?

[Humble]

The sump plate is actually part of the turbo system so that the oil drains properly. I didn't want to run one but the turbo drains better this way. I might change to a different header and pull the sump off later but for now it stays.

Yeah, I hear you about inlet temps. A friend of mine is running a pretty small intercooler and water/ethanol injection on his miata. By the time the water mix kicks in he's 3C above ambient in the logs and below ambient while in boost with the water mix going. I don't think I'll be that well off with just water/ethanol mix but it's better than nothing. I really like what you did with your intercooler and I'd like to do something like that. Got any more detailed pics of your setup anywhere?