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  #16  
Old May 8th 2006, 13:24
skywalker
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Nice job Walter.

No need to be affraid for that lovely piece of technique inside the tranny.
If you can build type 4's like you do, this will turn out the right way too.

For those who do not know Walters 412S, here it is:

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  #17  
Old May 18th 2006, 09:45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve C
Hi

Nice work. Do the 915s need special jigs like VWs to set them up again?

Steve
Sorry @all. Lost track of this thread when update emails weren't send anymore.

@ Luuk: thanks!

Martin, will send you an email. Good to know there are options. I'am curious what you have thought-up about the clutch cable routing.

@ Steve: no special jigs are required IF you keep the shifting forks intact! I managed to remove them without loosening the fork bolts on the shift rods
Loosening the big nuts on top of the gear stacks requires some home made solutions, but nothing fancy (luckily).
It does look easier than working on a 901/914

@ badbug: rims are 7Jx17 ET50 and 8,5Jx17 ET52

Most new parts are now in. Just waiting on one last part, which should be underway

Thanks,
Walter

Last edited by Wally; May 18th 2006 at 10:07.
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  #18  
Old December 2nd 2006, 01:18
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wrenchnride247 wrenchnride247 is offline
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Wally, what is the outcome of your rebuild? I'm about to start my 915 rebuild with possible gearing changes also $$$ .
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1970 T1 W/MassIVe 2913cc RAT/?EFI? w/direct fire (very soon) and 915 trans

1962 SC 1776cc SP 944NA brakes, 993 wheels

VKG
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  #19  
Old December 3rd 2006, 11:31
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Wally Wally is offline
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It worked excellent! I just wished I had exchanged the slider of 1/2 as well, as that is the only part I didn't buy new and its only the only gear shift (towards 2) that needs a little too much effort sometimes ...
I will very probably replace that slider when the engine is updated to the 2,7
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  #20  
Old December 3rd 2006, 22:44
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wrenchnride247 wrenchnride247 is offline
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Thanks Wally, I hope to have mine rebuilt, and geared for the best power and acceleration with a 2.5 EFI type IV . With Jake's help, I shouldn't have any problems.
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1970 T1 W/MassIVe 2913cc RAT/?EFI? w/direct fire (very soon) and 915 trans

1962 SC 1776cc SP 944NA brakes, 993 wheels

VKG
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  #21  
Old June 18th 2009, 22:45
effvee effvee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wally View Post
Forgot to mention the guilty party: Worn slider 1/2:



These shiny bands should have a flat surface. The top one is most out of focus, but you can still see its clearly 'dented' in the middle...
Question, in replacing the syncros and sliders, was it much to it? I to have the "I'm going to mess it up frear thing" I know I will need a trans repairman to set the gear mesh for the ring and pinion when I get the GT ATB diff. How about the linkages internally, was ther much to re-set them?
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  #22  
Old June 19th 2009, 02:42
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Be carefull what you read on the inetrnet, as my above 'conclusion' was wrong!
The dented part in the middle is supposed to be there....

Quote:
Originally Posted by effvee View Post
Question, in replacing the syncros and sliders, was it much to it? I to have the "I'm going to mess it up frear thing" I know I will need a trans repairman to set the gear mesh for the ring and pinion when I get the GT ATB diff. How about the linkages internally, was ther much to re-set them?
The synchros itself are difficult to get off and on. Lots of force and plyer-force needed iirc. Not fun; possible yes, maybe, just..
I didn't set linkages as I didn't loosen them, but I should have resetted it. Also here: you need to know what your doing. I had to open the tranny once more because of my inexperience...
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  #23  
Old June 19th 2009, 21:01
effvee effvee is offline
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Tools

Walter, did you use any special tools? Press? indicators?
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  #24  
Old June 20th 2009, 02:56
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No, not really, just an air socket/wrench (sp?) for removal of the top two nuts (41 and 36mm IIRC) of the gear stacks is very recommended as is an old clutch disk to bold into your workbench. Of course things like a good gear puller, of which I modded the fingers a bit, is without saying.
The special 915 jig to set linkages inside is recommended too. Pelican makes a replica in hard plastic, very cheap btw!
I am sure to have forgotten things, but this is just from the top of my head.

Last edited by Wally; June 20th 2009 at 03:07.
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  #25  
Old June 21st 2009, 16:46
effvee effvee is offline
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Your new throw out bearing

Walter, concerning the I believe a Saab hydrualic throw out bearing that you modded to your G-50 setup. Do you believe this mod can be done to a 915 trans? Before I go any further in my 915 project, I'd like to know how I am going to address the clutch apply issue. I just noted your last dyno test, congrats.
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  #26  
Old June 22nd 2009, 07:37
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1) I didn't use the Saab TO bearing in the end, but a Ford Mondeo (iirc) model as it was smaller.
2) AFAIK, room inside the 915 bellhousing is probably too small even for the smaller Ford TO bearing...
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  #27  
Old July 9th 2009, 19:59
effvee effvee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wally View Post
1) I didn't use the Saab TO bearing in the end, but a Ford Mondeo (iirc) model as it was smaller.
2) AFAIK, room inside the 915 bellhousing is probably too small even for the smaller Ford TO bearing...

Hi Walter, I'd like to re-visit the hyd throw out bearning again. So here goes, I am comparing your end results of shorting the bell housing area to basicly match the 915.

Since you did that, would the inside clearences pretty much be the same as the 915?

I really need to consider your method for your G-50 application in the 915. Because of the maching of the bellhousing. Where did you get the throw out bearning?
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  #28  
Old July 10th 2009, 02:47
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Wally Wally is offline
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Hello,

I'am afraid I can't answer your questions as i don't have the 915 anymore and the G50 is in the car so I can't 'have a look' let alone make a comparison...
In my remark 2) above here I think I already gave my opinion on your second question fwiw.

As for the TO bearing, I just bought a nice looking one on ebay

sorry,
Walter
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