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  #91  
Old March 17th 2021, 05:10
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Some photos of the 1971cc Type-4 build.

I started with removing the old oil galley plugs and tapping them for NPT plugs.



A NOS cranckshaft that I had ballanced with a 200mm. flywheel



cc'ed the CU-heads



Set deck height on new Mahle flat top piston and cylinder set



Because I used 1700cc rockers in combination with 8mm. swivel ball valve adjustment screws (I will come back to this later),
I had to make new longer pushrods for the correct rocker geometry.
To make it easier to turn the camshaft/crank I used lighter pressure springs.



And made my own adjustable pushrod



After testing and installing the correct jets in the DRLA carburators



I was the proud owner/builder of a smooth running type-4

https://i.imgur.com/eAs18TT.mp4

The reason that I replaced the 1971cc type-4 with the 1904cc type-1 is it

left a smoke screen worthy of a bond car after only running for 100 kilometers.

The cause of the failure was a locknut that came loose of one of the swivel ball valve adjustment screws,

I am afraid to use these again. I am 100% sure I tightend all the locknuts.

With the locknuts loose the adjustment screws are very loose inside the rockers and can move side to side.

Is there enybody else who had this happen??

The nut became stuck between a rocker and the cylinderhead, breaking a piece out of the bottom of the head.

Resulting in a massive oil leak on to the exhaust

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  #92  
Old March 17th 2021, 05:17
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I rebuild it with new CJ heads before I started with the 2056cc. in januari.

It is now ready to test start and install and hopefully this time run longer than 100 kilometers.





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  #93  
Old March 17th 2021, 05:26
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Used my CAD skills to make a Rear Engine Tin to fit the Porsche-Style Cooling.

Cardbord And Duct tape.





The bolts will replaced and I will make a better looking one out of thicker aluminium.

I made this very quick so I could drive the car.
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  #94  
Old March 17th 2021, 22:20
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Sweet CAD!

Looks like an awesome engine, hope it all goes well!
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  #95  
Old March 19th 2021, 06:03
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Thanks!!

Sneak peek,

Front mounted RS style oilcooler in Remmele Motorsport front bumper.




Last edited by Blizzard; March 19th 2021 at 15:31.
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  #96  
Old March 20th 2021, 16:01
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This BAS Porsche 911 style cooling shroud is modeled after an original 911 fan shroud. Knowing this I wanted to try and install the alternator air deflector.





The aftermarked alternator in the 240mm. fanhousing sticks out 1 cm. more out of the back compared to an original 911 alternator. I had to cut some material from the fiberglass cone around the mouting points and trim the vanes a few mm. but now it fits perfectly



I used two M6 10mm. nuts the first to hold the cone in place and the second to lock the first one in its place. I've done this not to overtighten and crack the cone. Ebay is full of those.

Last edited by Blizzard; March 20th 2021 at 16:26.
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  #97  
Old March 20th 2021, 16:25
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I also made a modification to the cylinder tins. The credit for this idea goes to the engine builder of Skywalker's Type-4 in his Splitwindow bus.



With a Type-1 style or 911 style shroud the air now comes from the top instead of from the back like on an original type-4. With this mod air is guided around the heads towards all 4 exhaust ports. The original tins only have this at the number 4 cylinder. The number 4 cylinder already gets the least amount of air with a 911 style cooling ( The air has to make a S shape from the back of the fan to flow between the shroud and number 4 cylinder / head . Flowing air takes the path of least resistance. So without this mod the cylinder that gets the least amount of air flow is also the only one with a more restricted path for the airflow, The path of least resistance
are the gaps between cylinder 3 and 1 and the shroud, alot of air is lost without cooling anything.

Some before and after photos

Cylinder 1


Cylinder 2


Cylinder 3


Cylinder 4


And After modification





With this mod all the air is forced through the cooling fins off the cylinders and heads.

Last edited by Blizzard; March 22nd 2021 at 06:27. Reason: extra info and photos
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  #98  
Old March 20th 2021, 16:48
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And in my case the most important ( piece of mind ) upgrade.

Swivel-ball to swivel feet valve adjustment screws.



And yes I checked that all the feet can move without touching the rockers.
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  #99  
Old March 21st 2021, 21:10
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Wow, awesome mods! I'm going to steal some of your ideas for my someday upcoming 2056. I have a set of those lower cylinder tins already.
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  #100  
Old March 22nd 2021, 06:54
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Like I mentioned before the idea of the cooling tins is not mine. I just thougt it would be helpfull to share this idea again.
Another thing I did to improve airflow/cooling of the heads is remove all the casting imperfections and blockages between the cooling fins on the new heads, using a 1mm. thin cutoffdisk on an angle grinder, a drill and dremel tool.

Last edited by Blizzard; March 22nd 2021 at 07:00.
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  #101  
Old March 23rd 2021, 15:51
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For the first time I have over 200 horsepower in my car.
To bad I can only use half of it at once.



When everything was bolted on and connected again, it started on the first try, and runs perfect. I have no photographic evidence it was to dark.
AFR is in the high 13s at low and high rev's with the current jets. I think I will only change the accelerator pump jets from 33 to 35.
When I open the gas quickly on the test stand it revs up without running lean with the 33"s. The first time in the car, it ran lean while accelerating with the 33 accelerator pump jets installed.

venturi 32 try 30
main jets 125
Idle jets 52 try 55
air corrector jets 180
emulsion tube 9164.2
accelerator pump jets 33 try 35

Now I want to install the engine asap in the car and start finetuning with the DRLA's under load and with a warm engine.

I also have a set of italian 40 IDF's I want to test
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  #102  
Old April 1st 2021, 14:28
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Out with the old(er)



I with the (re)new(ed)

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  #103  
Old April 1st 2021, 15:00
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April 1st.
No joke, it runs and drives super smooth, lots more torq than the Type-1 1904cc..

I started with reamed 47 idle jets reamed to 55. The AFR was good but the engine was not running even on all cylinders.

I measured these jets and they were all differend in size. If I would make them as big as the biggest one the engine would run to rich.

The other jets I have are 52 and 58 Idle jets. The 52 were around 15 and the 58 idle jets around 12 on the AEM Air fuel gauge

I could borrow a jet reamer set from a friend and started to enlarge the 52 idle jets in very small increments until the gauge was showing numbers in the high 13's.
When driving at a constant RPM there was a small dip around 3200 rpm at the transition between the idle circuit and the main jets.
I adjusted the float hight from the starting point of 6mm. to 5.5mm. and the dip was gone.

I will post a youtube link later to show how constant the AFR is from 1000 to 4500 rpm

Very happy with the result.

Last edited by Blizzard; April 2nd 2021 at 16:42.
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  #104  
Old April 4th 2021, 14:27
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When I'm done with testing carburators and no longer need the AEM gauge and o2 sensor in the exhaust I will replace the CSP Python with the GPP exhaust.

Before I could install that exhaust I had to do some tedious but important mods. First I matched the inside opening of the copper gasket rings to the exhaust pipe.



Now all 4 gaskets have the same size as the exhaust pipe mating surface



On one of the exhaust pipes the mating surface was not completly flat.
On the picture below you can see it almost done, there is still some black marker visible.



And on one side the pipes were not perfectly parallel to each other so I spend half an hour doing this.
Just like Jeff often said on homebuild by Jeff on youtube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jfPmTOin29w

MORE SANDING.. YAY!!.



I did a leak test with an aircompressor and some soapy water and it's leak free.
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  #105  
Old April 4th 2021, 16:29
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Nice job! I like the oilcooler positioning in the front spoiler a lot as well.
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