Getting the inside wheel on the ground

[Jadewombat]

So the first time I took out my 1303 to the autocross. It felt great and did pretty well for a nearly stock 1600 engine. Anyhoo, I was pushing the car pretty hard, didn't feel completely neutral but wasn't far from it either.

I wish I had power steering though, running 215/55/16s all around and going lock to lock is a bit of a challenge. I didn't get any video, need to make a rollbar attachment for my camera mount I have (it's set up for headrests), but people watching me said the car looked really good holding the course. I was lifting the inside wheel though. My question is what to do about getting that wheel down on the ground? Light rear sway bar (stock 944) or good shocks like Bilsteins? Bearing in mind, I also plan to rallycross with this car.

Suspension
-Front 924/944 220lb. springs--dropped the ride height only 1/2" (I know, they're quite heavy and it's a rough ride but this isn't my daily) with KYBs
-Front sway bar--stock '74-
-Rear-stock shocks

Brakes
-924T all around
-CNC dual m/cs

Wheels
-ROH 16" Porsche 16x7 and 16x8s

Tires
-Kuhmo Ecsta Sticky Street 215/55/16s

-Half roll cage in the car
-No rear seat, interior stripped

Engine
-Basically stock 1600, upgraded exhaust and 1.25s

Trans
-Stock 73 single side-cover

Thanks.

[judgie]

front or rear wheel?
if its the front theres not a lot you do about it if its doing it under power, mines does it as well.
if its a rear then then try lowering the rear suspension a bit to get a more rear biased wieght transfer in the corners.

[Jadewombat]

Sorry, the front inside wheel powering out of a turn. Just like the old 911s would lift.

[evilC]

With 220lb/in springs on the front and standard TBs? on the rear then the rear is way too soft hence it is sitting down at the back corner in the turn. Also, I imagine that the roll is inducing oversteer that is countered somewhat by the understeer that the roll stiffness at the front due to the heavy springs exhibits. I would either up the TBs to 25.5mm or add some coilovers to the rear and improve the roll stiffness. This might accentuate the understeer so adding a rear anti-roll bar may be necessary. It goes without saying that a set of Bilsteins would help no end but won't cure the imbalance on their own.

Clive

[Jadewombat]

Thanks for the input. I think I'll try a 14mm 924 rear SB as this seems like a low-buck option to try first. I was really surprised, it's fairly close to neutral with this weight, hp, front suspension, tire combo and I don't want to overshoot the mark. If I increase the hp significantly and or put a LSD in I'll have to reassess.

I had a Golf years ago I put Neuspeed heavy SBs on, it had manual steering and a LSD and a 1.8 head/2.0 block engine. It was a handful and I really didn't like the way it handled, the SBs were so stiff without power steering the car would want to 'set' back to middle--much less entering or exiting a hard turn with some good throttle was a lot to deal with.

[evilC]

A front wheel drive car handles completely opposite to a rear engine, rear wheel drive car so don't compare the two indiscriminately.

I would definitely be inclined to increase the rear spring stiffness as with any more power you will be spinning the inside rear wheel and losing traction. Use the anti-roll bars as a fine tuning aid when you have everything else sorted.
If nothing else the front rear frequencies will be so close as to create severe pitching that will slow your progress.

Clive