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  #991  
Old September 30th 2011, 15:58
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Wally Wally is offline
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Sandeep, I still run a set of now 8 year old Dunlop SP Super Sport -race in the rear and a relatively new set of Kumho Ecsta V700 in the front.
Both are what you americans/canadians call 'R-rated' tires. We call them 'semi-slicks'. These have both a UTCQ rating of 60 for traction, which is rather low, hence relatively soft tires.
For comparison: Toyo's 888's have 100... Maybe 100 would be better as these 60 can get 'greasy' quite fast (ie after a few laps on a warm day).
The rears I run about 4 years already (I thought they would last just one season) and were 4 years old when I bough them new, so they were 'cheap'. Just saying don't be afraid of semi-slicks as they can last a longtime if you don't use then daily. Some R-rated tires are standard equipment on the track-day cars from Porsche like the GT2/3/RS's ;-)
I don't use the car as my daily though! I do drive the car to all events over the road, in which it accumulates quite a few miles anyways
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  #992  
Old October 2nd 2011, 12:32
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Thanks for the input Walter. It did not make sense to me to put street tires on a car that spends relatively little time on the street.

I was considering Falken Azenis rt 615 tires myself as I have a modern daily driver. It does look like the driving to the track does not effect the longevity of the tires.

Sandeep
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  #993  
Old October 2nd 2011, 12:36
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Not to derail Wally's thread, but it really depends on alignment as well. My Audi in track trim was running -4 deg of camber, it would eat up a set of tires driving from Richmond Hill to Shannonville and back, assuming I spent the day on the track. I could get two days out of set by popping them off the rims and putting the inside edge to the outside.

A bug, though, is relatively light and easy on tires so I wouldn't expect it to be a problem.

-Dave
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  #994  
Old October 3rd 2011, 04:52
70Turbobug 70Turbobug is offline
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4WD drive cars eat tires also.A guy I work with has an WRX STi and he runs Bridgestone Semi Slicks and gets about 10Tkm out of them,which is great.Dave made a good point about alignment though.If you have an aggressive camber or a heavy car itīs obvious that the tires will wear more quickly than a light car.Everyone has their own preference for which tire is best.Driving style,damper selection and engine performance also plays a role in which tire works the best.There are just so many factors that depend on each individual needs or preference that you canīt really say "this tire works best" and you have try which tire you think is best for you.Some put more emphasis on stability during braking because they prefer to brake later,generally they give up corner speed for it or those that brake less but therefore earlier use a little more corner speed and prefer traction during acceleration out of the corner.Itīs not a coincidence that tires are a huge issue in racing and decide each race.Most of us I would think need a comprimise since weīre not Sebastian Vettel and donīt have tire sponsors and require a tire that is also good on the street.If you have the luxury of beeing able to take a second set of rims+tires to the track with you,than itīs a different story.It would suck however,if you have really sticky semi slicks that are great for the track and then it rains or it rains on the way home,then youīre even slower than if you were to run a good street tire.
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  #995  
Old October 3rd 2011, 09:39
karol karol is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wally View Post
I don't use the car as my daily though! I do drive the car to all events over the road, in which it accumulates quite a few miles anyways
how many km did you put on your current turbo engine?
Amazing car - swiss knife of all beetles: street car, drag racer, circuit, autobahn criuser, all this with aircooled flatfour. And a good looker too.
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  #996  
Old October 5th 2011, 17:13
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Hi Walter,

Great to see the continued development of your car!
I'm sure the LSD has made a world of different, I bet you can't wait to get back to the 'ring and give it a try ;-)
Keep the updates coming mate.

Cheers,
Cam
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  #997  
Old October 11th 2011, 07:23
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If you are not runnig a relay to the fuel pump to get dirrect battery voltage you can try to use a voltage stabilizer to maintain constant voltage regardless of input. Used this one before and worked great even with the generator. Headights dont flicker with voltage or engine speed change. Just bright all the time. Should make the electrical items last longer, as it also controlls spikes in system voltage.
http://www.jacobselectronics.com.au/
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  #998  
Old October 11th 2011, 09:20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vdubzack View Post
If you are not runnig a relay to the fuel pump to get dirrect battery voltage you can try to use a voltage stabilizer to maintain constant voltage regardless of input. Used this one before and worked great even with the generator. Headights dont flicker with voltage or engine speed change. Just bright all the time. Should make the electrical items last longer, as it also controlls spikes in system voltage.
http://www.jacobselectronics.com.au/
Interesting!
Wasn't Jacobs electronics a US based company?
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  #999  
Old October 17th 2011, 06:43
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Interesting!
Wasn't Jacobs electronics a US based company?
Yes. And still is but was sold to the company that does Summit racing and the like.(I do believe) The Aussie jacobs is the only direct site.
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  #1000  
Old October 23rd 2011, 15:58
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Looked at my suspension geometry this weekend and as I remembered, the tca is almost parallel with the steering rod (good thing):



Futhermore, for the camber to get more negative, the tca must become rectangular with the imaginary line through the top of the strut and the ball joint, right?
It seems I am still pretty good with the current angle, even when fully suspended inbound (this pic is taken with the wheel/tca-end supported, so in resting position):


My idea to use a ball joint extender will probably give more bump-steer since tca and steering rod won't be parallel anymore and isnt needed from a camber point of view, so I think I don't want to do that after all.

Next action will be to see what my 'scrub radius' actually is:


Haven't done this part (ran out of time), but will do as well
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  #1001  
Old October 23rd 2011, 20:04
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Hi Wally

Do you have any issues with the tie rod touching the chassis rail / inner mudguard?

Steve
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  #1002  
Old October 24th 2011, 03:12
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No, but... I have squared the spare wheel well (for easier battery placement and such) and the tie rod could hit the edge or so it seemed, so I made a recess for it.
The tie rod never hit anything fortunately and now with the stiffer springs even less chance.
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  #1003  
Old October 24th 2011, 05:33
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Wally: I'm in the process of correcting poor scrub geometry. The high offset porsche wheels make the scrub radius massively negative. I was desperate to try and avoid wider wings but the compromises just weren't worth it. From memory my scrub offset measured about 38mm -ve. A quick test with the rear 944 wheel spacers have made the steering feel much nicer and more confidence inspiring, it isn't to far off stock now I believe. Most RWD cars have +ve scrub but some late (including 2 bolt strut supers) are designed with -ve.
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  #1004  
Old October 24th 2011, 06:33
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I hear you Rich; I run the 21mm spacers up front as well, but more because I couldn't fit the high ET wheels; this was before I ran the slimmer AVO struts. Now the spacers help to have full steering without hitting the inner fenders...

My theory is that the 944 spindles are bad for scrub radius. I think their tie rod ends are located further outwards then the originel VW 2-bolt spindles, which curve more towards the inner side of the car? Not sure though. Whats your take on my theory?
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  #1005  
Old October 24th 2011, 08:28
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Sounds like you should just measure yours, I did it by jacking the car as you have done above at ride height and holding an edge as close as possible through the points after having marked off the width of the tyre (before I took the wheel off) to get the centre line. Tie rods shouldn't affect scrub radius, just the affect of the scrub, their effect is more too do with ackermann & steering effort/speed.
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