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  #61  
Old November 7th 2011, 21:43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kafer_Mike View Post
Here is another article on the conversion. It appears they used heavy duty VW mounts...
http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/re...he5spdconv.htm
Except you'll notice that his 901 case has the flat sections for using those mounts successfully. I've got a fully round bellhousing which is requiring some tweaking.

-Dave
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  #62  
Old November 10th 2011, 02:59
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...Exhausted from a tonne of driving today, and no further progress on the 901 install. But I did get to drop in and see the shell, and bought the paint today!!!

Looking good in primer...will likely be in paint by the end of the weekend.







-Dave
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  #63  
Old November 10th 2011, 08:58
al_kaholik al_kaholik is offline
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Looking good
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  #64  
Old November 14th 2011, 14:04
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muy buen trabajo, como se debe!! exitos (good work)
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  #65  
Old November 14th 2011, 15:58
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Very nice!
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  #66  
Old November 14th 2011, 16:52
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...it gets better :-)

They sent me these on Saturday:





I'll update the 901 install before the day is out.

-Dave
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  #67  
Old November 15th 2011, 04:21
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Alex at Bugat5speed(us) was kind enough to help me out on the 901 install. He emailed me a solution he had used, which got me thinking about a possible solution for myself. Enter the $30 empi solid mount kit. Because the lower cross member is supposed to be used without mounts on the T1 trans, it gets me a whole lot closet to where i need to be.



I am concerned about the urethane mounts failing, and may still end up with a Bugat5speed aluminum mount setup. At least the way I've done this I should be able to swap out for Alex's mount relatively easily. The final version of my mount required some cutting, bending, welding and then moving the frame horn holes to get everything exactly where I wanted it to be. My input shaft now sits 1/16" higher then the Type-1 transmission, with the mounting flange for the engine in the exact same spot fore/aft.




It's a whole lot easier working on the pan upside down...not sure if/how you would do a Porsche transmission swap with the body on the car. It would suck, I can say that much! With the 901 Trans being 1"(ish) longer then the VW transmission, and my decision not to move the engine back at all, I've had a lot of cutting to do in the torsion bar area. Thankfully I'm using coil-overs...but I'll never be able to go back!


Started on my front mount, which will be done in the factory rally car style. This requires just a short plate, and two regular transmission mounts welded to the frame rails.


Volkswagen was even kind enough to include motorsport mounting brackets in the regular Type-1 transmission cross member. You just have to cut away all the metal bits that aren't for racing ;-)

In order to weld in my new mounts, however, I need to remove the speedometer gear assembly from the nose-cone of my Porsche Trans. Having no factory manual, and not being able to figure out exactly how it's being held in...I started to think about removing the nose cone. Alex's 901 install write up talks about removing the speedometer drive gear inside the nosecone, and I need to do the shift-selector seal anyways...so it seemed like a good idea.

Not so much now.



My first issue is that the nosecone didn't separate from the intermediate plate, first the intermediate plate separated from the trans case. I suspect this means I'm in for a bit of a tear down if I want to ensure that my transmission is leak free, the paper gaskets won't be much good now. No photos tonight, but I've got the nose cone off now and will start dealing with this tomorrow.

-Dave
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  #68  
Old November 15th 2011, 14:37
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Second issue I have is that the selector shaft has dropped loose out of whatever it rests inside the transmission. Will have to pull the gear stack to do the gaskets, so hopefully I can figure this out easily.

-Dave
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  #69  
Old November 15th 2011, 16:50
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And here is where I'm at now:



Problem #1
I've knocked the shift rod off/out of whichever detent it was sitting on inside the transmission. I have no idea what gear the transmission is in, or where the shift selector piece should be sitting. (part number 11 in the diagram below). How do I make sure I put this in the right spot?



Problem #2
When removing the nosecone, I unfortunately also had the intermediate plate slide up off the transmission case. I anticipate the paper gaskets have been compromised, so I've ordered a gasket set. I've read up enough to know that I need to measure the thickness and match the new gaskets correctly. But this does mean I'm going to need to teardown the transmission more then I was anticipating. I'm a little confused on what exactly I will need to do here, since I'm not planning on rebuilding any parts.

The tear-down and rebuild threads all talk about locking the transmission into two gears, and removing (or loosening) the pinion-shaft stretch bolt using a deep 30mm socket. What I can't tell, is whether or not this is a required step to remove the gear stack and intermediate plate, or whether this is done because it's easier to loosen the bolt with the gear stack in the transmission. If one is simply looking to replace the paper gaskets between intermediate plate and case, what are steps required to remove the gear stack?

When replacing the gear-stack and intermediate plate into the transmission case, do I need to have a particular gear selected? I seem to think you have to have it in a particular gear for the set to "click in"…but I might be thinking Audi Transmissions.

From another thread:
Quote:
With all gears in neutral, and the shift shaft in place in the case, I started guiding the assembled intermediate plate back into the case. This was another five handed operation, and a delicate one, since I needed to protect my mainshaft seal when putting the shaft through it (I wrapped the splines in oiled saran wrap - no trouble there). The shift rod had to be guided into place with a screwdriver as it wanted to get loose in there. But eventually everything was where it needed to be and all seemed in order.
From this I gather neutral, but I'm confused about the shift rod…does it come out/in with the gear stack, or does it stay in the transmission case. Based on the fact that all the shift forks come out with the intermediate plate/gear cluster I would have thought the shift rod does too.

Bottom Line
Some basic disassembly and reassembly directions so that I can replace the gaskets would be great. I already have the nose cone, side cover/shift support, reverse switch and rod removed. I have no idea what gear is selected and don't want to make any mistakes moving forward!

Are the paper gaskets installed dry, or with a light coating of aviation gasket sealant?

Thanks in Advance!

-Dave
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  #70  
Old November 17th 2011, 05:02
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Well, I couldn't wait to find out the proper way to yank it all apart...so I just made it up as I went along :-)

I still remember the first time I ever did a clutch and flywheel job on a car, it was about ten years ago on my Audi quattro. I was so nervous about such a 'big and scary' job, I called in my friend Eddy to give me a hand. (well, actually to do the job while I watched/helped). When it comes to vehicles, the inside of a transmission was my "final frontier". It's the only part of the car that still scares me to touch. I can build and rebuild motors, tear apart anything else, but a transmission? Those always seemed complex and scary. Plus, the factory manuals usually list about 17 different specialty tools you have to have!

Well, I have to say, after laying out the insides of the Porsche transmission in my garage...they're no longer scary. In fact, I'm kind of disappointed I don't have the parts or funds to rebuild the syncros and gear stack on this one...just look at it sitting there, crying out for a full tear down ;-) A full transmission rebuild is in my plans for the next year, just out of plain curiosity!



Getting into the Porsche 901 wasn't so bad. I suspect there is an ideal gear to have selected when one goes to dismantle the transmission. Mine was in an unknown gear with the main shift rod dislodged. Once I pulled the gear cluster out halfway, I was able to move the shift rod around enough to pop the whole unit out of the transmission. I did almost need three hands to do it, but eventually I got it.



My gear stack checked out about as well as I expected. The first gear syncro teeth are in poor shape, which I expected from reading so many threads about the 901. Fifth gear is worn as well, but the others look relatively good. The pinion gear looked quite good so I wasn't going to bother pulling the diff. Instead I figured I'd do a quick check through the input shaft hole. As I was rotating the diff around one of these two pieces came into view...(battery for scale)



That would be the remains of an input shaft seal. Apparently at some point in this transmission's life someone drove an old seal into the transmission instead of removing it properly. It also explains the metal fragments I found on the drain plug!

Needless to say, I decided I would empty the case and clean out anything and everything.



Reassembly is fairly straight forward. I followed another thread which said to put the transmission in neutral. It was a relatively easy job getting the gear stack in, and I was pretty sure I checked the main shift rod before moving forward. What I should have done, however, was also check each of the other shift rods to ensure they were still in neutral. Either while sliding the gear stack in, or while putting the nose cone on, I managed to select reverse gear on the transmission. The main shift rod was not in the correct spot though so once it was all buttoned up I had reverse, or a locked up transmission when selecting 'any gear'. I realized I was getting two gears at once, and popped off the side cover/support. From there I could see reverse was selected but the main shift rod wasn't in the right spot. Took a bit of finesse, but I managed to get it shifted back into neutral and sorted without cracking open the transmission again.



At least now I can use continue to modify my pan to fit and then I'll decide whether or not I want to do a full rebuild on the trans. I will probably run it as-is for a bit, so I can see how I like the gear ratios with my engine. If I'm going to do a rebuild I might as well make sure it's got the ideal gearset!

-Dave
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  #71  
Old November 18th 2011, 04:52
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Had a pretty productive night in the garage. Second night in a row that I've gone in at about 5pm, found myself really hungry only to look up and realize it was now midnight!

Started off by grinding away all that POR15 I had laid on the pan (sigh). From there I welded on the mounts for my front transmission mount.





They allow me to use the urethane transmission mounts, or factory beetle transmission mounts, to secure the front end of the transmission to the pan. And with that sorted out I moved onto closing up the gaping holes in my floor pan. Originally I was going to use a CV joint boot as a seal, but that turned out to be too large. I figured a boot from a power-steering rack would be perfect, but turns out I don't have any kicking around anymore. In one of my bins, though, I did find a brand new set of balljoint boots. It's a perfect fit, but will be a PAIN in the butt to deal with at a later date if I use the wire clips. The wire clips will ensure a full seal though. Hmmmmm...



Behind the boot, holding it on to the sheet metal, is a .5" section of 1.25" exhaust tubing. Just enough to hold the boot on. The boot is pretty stiff, so I may only use a wire clip on the pan side and let the shaft slide in and out of the boot.

Tomorrow I will seal up the torsion bar housing, and then tear it all back down to paint it. I have a couple of items to finish on the actual transmission, then I can finally flip the pan over and sort out all the other issues. I still need to move the accelerator cable and clutch tubing coming out of the pan, solve the clutch release arm hitting the frame horn, finish modifying/sealing the speedometer gear and then I can move onto rear suspension.



-Dave
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  #72  
Old November 18th 2011, 06:51
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Nice work and thanks for sharing!
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  #73  
Old November 19th 2011, 02:21
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Feels like I'm picking up momentum again, as I near the completion of the transmission swap.

Trans mounted:


But had to deal with the Clutch cable tube (yellow) and Accelerator tube (blue). I knew from other forum posts that they were going to interfere, but with my trans being further forward then most...it's a bit extreme. From the camera angle it looks like the clutch tube is close, but it's just an illusion, the bowden tube wouldn't fit on it. The accelerator cable, is a definite problem!



Cut the sheet metal around the tubes, lightly bent them into a new position, and welded a new plate on. Simple simple, but yet another job that needed to be done. Oh, and here's a future problem, the bowden tube is 3" too short. I suspect I'll be making a custom bracket to use the shorter tube.



And, finally a lick of paint. Tomorrow I hope to flip the pan over and start working on some topside issues. With the body done at the painters, I'm on a time crunch to get it picked up.



-Dave
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  #74  
Old November 19th 2011, 03:35
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Looks Great Dave... can't wait to See it all together

Chris.
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  #75  
Old November 19th 2011, 23:45
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Wow! Brave man tearing into the trans. (I hate dealing with them too) Your project is coming along nice!

Anyway, I've noticed the mounting points for the nose may be upside down (I know the pan is upside down in pic) Those style mounts are meant to have parts sit on them... not hang by them. The pic didn't show any bolts in the plate... so I may be missing something here.
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