Mythbuster: continuing project thread of my 1303 '75 - Page 20

**owdlvr** · #**286** February 7th 2010, 14:18

Wally, regarding your A-Pillar mount you should consider re-doing this or removing it. You need a much larger bracket (on both the A-Pillar and Main Hoop side) to spread the loads. Small brackets break off the cage or a-pillar and become a significant safety issue.

Jim · #**287** February 8th 2010, 05:38

Wally, very nice job indeed ,but i agree with owdlvr for re considering the A-Pillar mounts and if the welding will be kept massive especially when the weight distribution changes drammatically in a race track.

Wally · #**288** February 8th 2010, 07:28

The A-pillar got two places now where it is attached to the body: one midway (top door hinge) and up top, just before the head liner begins (the one in the picture). The B-pillar is connected as pictured.
I really fail to see how and why this would tear off other than in an accident...

Could one of you two explain how a force great enough, even in 'extreme driving' could/would cause this?

I would really need to see that happen to believe it myself, so I am NOT going to weld in any bigger supports, but do thank you guys for the concern. It would help though if I could picture it why/how your scenario could arise.

Not to mention I have seen this near exact way of connection in some welded 911 cages/cars, at least the A-pillar points and welds..

MX67 · #**289** February 8th 2010, 07:41

Wally, You will not use slicks, I assume (at least for now), so I can't see why would this welds break. They will be OK.

But, using slicks with alot of grip and applying too much force can tear those tiny connections off.

It ususally breaks when breaking hard. I was driving many race cars and those cages have more welded connections.

**owdlvr** · #**290** February 8th 2010, 13:09

Quote:

I really fail to see how and why this would tear off other than in an accident...

I can't speak for the others, but _my_ comments were in reference to the tab on your b-pillar breaking off in an accident. They have the potential to kill you if they do break, as it leaves an exposed cut piece of metal. I doubt you would find a racing body that would log book a cage with those tabs, as they aren't safe. Considering a cage is for safety, those small tabs are going backwards.

Your A-Pillar welds don't pose a safety concern, so there is no problem there.

You are correct that plenty of cages tie the main hoop into the b-pillars, but the surface area for attachments should be much larger. Here's an EVO6 cage (sorry for the small photo) that should give you some idea of the surface area used at the contact points:

-Dave

Wally · #**291** February 8th 2010, 13:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by owdlvr

I can't speak for the others, but _my_ comments were in reference to the tab on your b-pillar breaking off in an accident. They have the potential to kill you if they do break, as it leaves an exposed cut piece of metal. I doubt you would find a racing body that would log book a cage with those tabs, as they aren't safe. Considering a cage is for safety, those small tabs are going backwards.

Ah, see what you mean now Dave. I'll look into it.

Tnx,
Walter

Wally · #**292** February 10th 2010, 14:14

Getting the dash adjusted for the cage bars:

Trial fit of the dash:

Humble · #**293** February 10th 2010, 17:06

This is the kind of cage I had in mind! Awesome craftsmanship! I really want one of these cages now.

I can't tell from the pictures but how long are the welds on the A-pillar? I like the bolt in nature of the B-pillar additions and I don't think they will break free, but they will probably bend and deflect.

Wally · #**294** February 10th 2010, 18:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Humble

This is the kind of cage I had in mind! Awesome craftsmanship! I really want one of these cages now.

I can't tell from the pictures but how long are the welds on the A-pillar?

Thanks man! welds are not long enough probably, but I stopped at about 2 to 3 inches. That was also the length of which they were really close to the body, so that coincided

verbeekb · #**295** February 10th 2010, 18:51

Hey Walter,

Somewhere I saw you mounted polybronze bushing on your spring plates. Someone mentioned the lack of the knobs that are on the VW bushings, you replied that you were going to give it a try. I feel the same way, yet, I have new Porsche springplates with the stock vulcanized-on rubber bushings, everyone replaces them with the VW parts, but since mine are new I'd just like to use them the way they are and not bother with them.. have you had problems without the knobs?

Jim · #**296** February 11th 2010, 04:54

Well done Wally!!!

TSAF · #**297** February 11th 2010, 07:57

Nicely done Wally

**typ4boy** · #**298** February 11th 2010, 09:00

Hey man

here is your front top mounts, just waiting for the bottom struts to come back from the platers and the hole lot can be shipped mate

Wally · #**299** February 11th 2010, 10:24

Awesome Lee!

I have a track day on the 5th of March, so with any luck, I could try them out on the track after welding and aligning.

Looking forward to using those

TIA,
Walter

evilC · #**300** February 11th 2010, 13:18

Wally, the fit of the cage is awesome! As good as any I have seen anywhere including the factory race cars. I assume that the cage legs sit on reinforcing plates as it isn't quite clear in the photos. Also is there a cross brace at bottom dash level and if so is that point braced back to the A pillar?

Unfortunately I must go along with Owdivr especially regarding the B pillar locations although the amount of flex that you will see in the brackets with such a tight fitting cage will lessen any fretting that could occur.

I still can't get over how tight your front cage is to the A pillar - it's brilliant. Just don't break a windscreen!

Clive

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