#76
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Yeah, while I had pieces cut out of the rear window corners, I could see how and why they rusted out in the first place. Stiff foam traps water away from it's core, next to the metal. I made a hook out of a barbecue skewer and tore it all out before I welded the new pieces in place. Everything I could touch with a paintbrush got oxy-solved, and POR-15'd inside.
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Yetibone '71 1302S 1.8 '73 1303S 2.3 '83 928S 4.7 |
#77
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Ok, I just finished stitching the last patch into the right rear quarter. Now the body is ready to come back off the pan to be chemically stripped, primed, high and low spots fixed, sealed, and painted inside and out.
Still gotta get 1.25" wider front fenders, and a rear apron. *please excuse the poor quality pics*
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Yetibone '71 1302S 1.8 '73 1303S 2.3 '83 928S 4.7 |
#78
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A couple more pics.
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Yetibone '71 1302S 1.8 '73 1303S 2.3 '83 928S 4.7 |
#79
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Fine job :agree:
That foam has a bad idea in the end. Both my Black car and Ryan's Red car had some repairs to make and foam to remove.
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NO_H2O 72 1302 Smack Black GL 73 Bus (2L CIS Powered) 66 Beetle, 73 Standard Beetle 72 Pinzgauer 710M Volksport Kafer Gruppe |
#80
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Quote:
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Yetibone '71 1302S 1.8 '73 1303S 2.3 '83 928S 4.7 |
#81
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I don't think there was anything injected in there untill the little half moon vent was used 71 and later.
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NO_H2O 72 1302 Smack Black GL 73 Bus (2L CIS Powered) 66 Beetle, 73 Standard Beetle 72 Pinzgauer 710M Volksport Kafer Gruppe |
#82
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Quote:
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Yetibone '71 1302S 1.8 '73 1303S 2.3 '83 928S 4.7 |
#83
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I installed the engine today to mock-up some things. Figgured out where the muffler, and oil filter are going, and made sure the rear apron, and tins for the DTM were gonna fit. Still haven't made a heat shield between the exhaust, and oil lines, but I will once I have the engine out, and back up on the workbench.
Currently, the engine sits about 12mm too far to the right, so I'll have to modify the crossmember slightly to move everything back to the left. More crappy pics...
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Yetibone '71 1302S 1.8 '73 1303S 2.3 '83 928S 4.7 |
#84
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Pics of the engine. See the gap between the sealing tins, and the compartment seal groove on the left. There's no gap on the right. If I move the front of the gearbox to the left, then it should equal out.
Also, the shroud has kind of a rightward lean to it as well. It looks exagerated in the second pic by my not holding the camera straight. I'll also correct that when the engines' back on the workbench.
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Yetibone '71 1302S 1.8 '73 1303S 2.3 '83 928S 4.7 |
#85
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Yo, dats fly!
(Lookin' Good)
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Mike '04 R32 Tornado Red '02 New Beetle TDI - Daily driver '64 Ghia - Project!!-Subaru EJ20T, MS/EDIS, 993 brakes, 914 Tranny... |
#86
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Looks like you are chipping away at it. That is going to be one sweet GL when you get it done. :agree:
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NO_H2O 72 1302 Smack Black GL 73 Bus (2L CIS Powered) 66 Beetle, 73 Standard Beetle 72 Pinzgauer 710M Volksport Kafer Gruppe |
#87
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Quote:
(*translation: Thanks, Mikey. Pics of the oil cooler installation comming soon)
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Yetibone '71 1302S 1.8 '73 1303S 2.3 '83 928S 4.7 |
#88
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True Dat. :agree:
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NO_H2O 72 1302 Smack Black GL 73 Bus (2L CIS Powered) 66 Beetle, 73 Standard Beetle 72 Pinzgauer 710M Volksport Kafer Gruppe |
#89
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I mounted the front oil cooler today. With an 18"x24" 22ga. piece of sheet steel I made a piece to cover the opening I cut out of the tire well. I did this because I wanted the cooler high enough so It wouldn't peek out from underneath the car, and I needed room for a fan behind it. The mounting tabs on top are 1/8" steel with M6 nuts welded to it to bolt the cooler in, and the tabs are welded straight to the tire well. The bottom mounts are T6 aluminum pipe pressed flat on the ends, drilled, M6 threaded on the cooler's end, and 5/16" stainless steel riveted to the framehead on the other end.
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Yetibone '71 1302S 1.8 '73 1303S 2.3 '83 928S 4.7 |
#90
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Mo' pics.
The last pic is of the spacers I'll be using to get the wheels out to the edge of the fenders. Still to do to the chassis: -re-index the rear torsion bars. Currently the rear is WAAAAY to high. -borrow a friends lathe and take 2" off the Bilstein cartridges in front. -Modify the transmission crossmember to move the engine over to the left 10mm. -install 100mm long rear wheel studs. Still to do to the body: -trim the bottom of the rear apron. The rear fender section I used for the bulge was a little too long vertically. -take delivery of my front fenders. -weld up antenna hole, and trim holes. -strip, etch prime, knock down highs, fill in lows, 2K prime, block, and paint.
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Yetibone '71 1302S 1.8 '73 1303S 2.3 '83 928S 4.7 |
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