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  #271  
Old May 23rd 2016, 12:13
effvee effvee is offline
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Can it be welded? Or did it damaged the gear stack supporting areas?
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  #272  
Old May 23rd 2016, 17:49
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Steve C Steve C is offline
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Hi Wally

The damage is only to the bell housing area but the main shaft is offset slightly, I'm hoping that is in the bell housing distortion, the left hand axle hit the centre bolt in the drive flange. The Porsche specialist was telling me that he had a customer who needed one and he bought a re welded one from the US for $1700 US plus shipping.

Steve
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  #273  
Old May 25th 2016, 10:47
Clatter Clatter is offline
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You are my hero!
Not only did you just build it and race it, you pushed it hard enough to wad it up!

Now you rebuild...

Major props.

I'm just a boy.
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  #274  
Old May 25th 2016, 13:00
effvee effvee is offline
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Quote:
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You are my hero!
Not only did you just build it and race it, you pushed it hard enough to wad it up!

Now you rebuild...

Major props.

I'm just a boy.
you are kidding aren't you. G-50 in a bug, wonderful. That was not a smash up bang up ride. Somewhere in Steve's personal space that hurt. That whole rebuild is going to Cost$$$. Smash up bang up cars, were already banged up. Or, is this the phrase "break a leg", that actors use?
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  #275  
Old May 25th 2016, 18:24
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Thanks guys, a lot people build tough cars but they are not always driven hard.

I think apart from too much boost in the wet is that I built so much grip into the car it felt invincible: in the dry and being a nice car I avoided driving in the rain.

I feel that I have only been pulling things apart on the car, so no actual progress, tomorrow I start on the pan, so a gradual putting it back together again.

I have some good ideas about how to tackle the G50 fitment and make it better than before, I will post photos etc as I go.
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  #276  
Old May 27th 2016, 13:16
spannermanager spannermanager is offline
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A sad and tough break that Steve, Have you looked at the Renault UN1 box? detachable bell housing and all, quite a versatile trans.
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  #277  
Old May 27th 2016, 18:48
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Hi

I looked at Reno boxes years ago, pretty rare down here. If the G50 proves to be not an option I might go to one of these http://www.subarugears.com/ not as heavy duty as a G50 but with a weight saving on the chassis and transmission one might survive.

I like doing this sort of thing https://youtu.be/spgKInSH1D0 and this https://youtu.be/uhgVgzf5oD0 not sure how a Subaru box will handle it.

Steve
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  #278  
Old May 28th 2016, 09:18
spannermanager spannermanager is offline
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One thing I don't like is the Subaru hypoid r&p for correct drive shaft alignment tho, I looked at them when I built my 4x4 Rallycross '03 and had an option with used prodrive development 'boxes, at cost obviously�� but the positioning was all wrong for my requirements, it forced the trans/motor install up too high for me, hope you get it sorted whatever option you go. ��
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  #279  
Old June 1st 2016, 15:46
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graham graham is offline
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Not been on here for ages due to moving abroad . Sorry to see so much damage to your car Steve good luck with the re build dude.
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  #280  
Old June 1st 2016, 19:05
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Thanks Graham, I'm still waiting to see how welding goes on the housing, I've been talking to Todd at Subaru gears. If the welding of the bellhousing is unsuccessful I might go 6 speed Suabru with one of the new forged R&P
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  #281  
Old June 24th 2016, 18:13
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Hi

the welding on the bell housing appears to be successful, new chassis is under way and looking good, I've already moved my shifter forward 100 mm and moved my brake MC over 30 mm and fitted the clutch slave next to it like I did with my old pan.

I have some really good ideas on the G50 pan clearancing, I'm making new forks etc from 1 3/4 roll cage tubing, it should cut weight down a lot.

I've fitted new CNC cut pans supplied my friend Glenn whos on here but I cant remember his user name, taking the chassis to the panel beater today to make sure it fits together OK.

Steve
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  #282  
Old June 25th 2016, 03:58
effvee effvee is offline
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Hi, some clarity please. 100mm forward, from your picture, you look over 6ft tall. My bug, I moved my shifter about four inches rearward. I"m 6"2, I drove my blue bug with the seat almost contacting the back seat. 100 equates to 4".

Last edited by effvee; June 25th 2016 at 19:10.
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  #283  
Old June 25th 2016, 08:12
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Hi

The G50 shifter bends back towards the driver, so in 2nd & 4th my elbow was next to my body. I am about 6.1 and a bit, but I'm old so I'm shrinking.

Body is now temporarily on the pan so the panel beater can give it a tug to line the front 1/4 back up again, once he's finished with it I will get the pan finished off and painted.

On Wednesday I'm driving to Birdsville in outback Queensland for music concert http://www.bigredbash.com.au/bigredbash/index , after I get back from Birdsville I have 2 weeks of work then a week long VW show http://volkswagenspectacular.com/, then after that I'm back into getting my bug back on the road.

Entries are open Wednesday for the Snowy Mountains 1000 in November, if I cant get my bug ready in time I will take my rice rocket daily a 180SX Nissan.

Steve
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  #284  
Old June 25th 2016, 19:33
effvee effvee is offline
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Your shifter rod, effect on shifter sweep/pattern, is this because of you using the Porsche rod itself?

The reason for the questions are, at some point I will be headed in that direction. My co-worker that sold me the G-50 also has the shifter and rod to sell. I have been thinking on a more straight line shift rod install. At present I have two u-joints for the same purpose. I may even sink the thifter lower into the tunnel, in order to attain a better straightness; but this is all in my head.

Thank you for putting up with me.

Last edited by effvee; June 25th 2016 at 22:11.
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  #285  
Old June 26th 2016, 06:23
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Wally Wally is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve C View Post
Hi

The G50 shifter bends back towards the driver, ...
Indeed. I straigthened the shifter for that reason (and used a 30% shift throw reduction kit). Problem solved
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