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Old March 15th 2005, 07:21
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Another beetle audio install - updated 13/5/05

Inspired by Troy, thought I'd share some pics of my installation so as not to bombard his thread!!

Here are some early pics of the dash mod which was dropped down using a donor dash section.


Here is the original Kenwood HU I was going to run before learning a bit more about car audio and making some better informed decisions.

Last edited by Dasdubber; May 12th 2005 at 18:40.
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Old March 15th 2005, 07:22
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Sub enclosure mid way through construction - 6x9 holes will be glassed over (their initial inclusion was based on more ill-informed advice from car audio "salesman" who ended up wasting my money).


And here it is nestled in behind rear seat and rollcage.


Amp rack I welded up (looks weak but is actually very stable) - these are the only two components of the original system I have kept (Kenwood 150WRMS and 240WRMS amps).
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Old March 15th 2005, 07:27
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Now for the new stuff....

Alpine CDA-9833 HU slotted in place.


And amp rack temporarily bolted in place (so I can eventually make the fibreglass surround).


Dynaudio 240GTs waiting patiently to be installed into custom kicks (still to come). Eclipse sub will replace the original pioneer.


Thats it for now, I'll update as progress continues.
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Old March 15th 2005, 13:33
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nice work. :agree: i will get some pics of mine soon too. i have yet to install the speaker cab. the rest is mostly in.
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Old March 15th 2005, 13:47
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Hey,
you can post om my thread any time..
Thats 1 of my faveret HU install in a bug so far..
If i had the welding skills I would give it a shot.. maybe another time..
Your bug is a 10+ just sick..
Love the dyn's
((Dont forget you can add any Dyn Driver to that set..8's in the doors ))

Peace man keep'em comin I still got 100's of spot on my screen saver

Troy
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Old March 15th 2005, 20:26
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Nice, once again Das! :agree:
Nice reciever upgrade as well...Alpine is one of the best out there.
Oh and what size of componant speakers were you able to fit into the kick panels? I might only be able to fit 5.25 if i install the tweeters into the kicks as well...other wise I might put them some where in the dash or something.

let us know how the sub sounds once everything is going...i still havent made my decision on that part
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Old March 19th 2005, 07:39
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Started on the kick panels today - masked up the footwell area, then applied foil with spray adhesive to contain the resin and to enable me to remove it all!



Applied two layers of glass and resin to form a base for the kicks that will wrap around in front of the pedals to get a bit more volume for the dyns. Work will continue tomorrow.

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Old March 19th 2005, 16:01
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Awsome...
you did that with the windows up right..
I heard it makes them sound better

Keep it up man
Peace Troy
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Old March 20th 2005, 07:26
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hehehe..

Pulled out the fibreglass base today and trimmed to size...next week will hopefully see some additional layers to the base as well as mount the mdf rings for woofer and tweeter.

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Old March 20th 2005, 17:16
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Lightbulb

As usual, a bang up job. Glad to hear you finally got some good advice from someone re: components. I've landed on Alpine head units myself after years of being a slave to Sony.

Some words of advice. As you apply more layers of fiberglass, the two layers you currently have will start to fold in on themselves and distort. The way to keep this to a minimum is to roll out as much of the resin as you can so the resin/matt ratio is as low as possible.

You've probably figured out the fleece stretching idea if your looking at MDF rings for the speakers.

See what the air volume is for your mids. I used Quart Q's for mine, and the volume requirement is much more than a kick panel pod can fit. If you find the sound is small and restricted in the midbass area, an awesome way to fix it is to port the enclosure.

I had cut a hole in the metal near the bottom of the kick panel to access the heater tubing connection for the hose that heads up to the top dash vents, as I couldn't reach the area any other way. I was able to use hose clamps there to solidly mount the flex tubing.

The hole in the metal allowed an exit point for the vent in the back of the enclosure. I used some sticky sided weather proofing around the vent and sealed it to the hole in the metal, allowing the backpressure to vent to the luggage compartment and not into the interior. The sounds was instantly improved and the depth of the midbass much lower.

I also have my sub up front to keep the sound all coming from the front and to try to neutralize the rear weight bias of the car a bit. I really have liked the results.

http://www.geocities.com/volkdent/BugInterior.html

Jason
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Old March 20th 2005, 18:41
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Nice Jason..
That SS 805 is a choice amp..
I just got rid of afew so my buddies could run some oldschool power..
Nice setup.. If you get sick of the JL try Image Dynamics. The subs are sick.. small air space/low power & they pound w/SQ
Peace out Nice work everyone..
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Old March 20th 2005, 19:00
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Thanks Jason, so when you say resin to matt ratio as low as possible, this means using as little resin as possible right?

Regarding your port, that is a neat idea to vent to luggage area...I'm a little reluctact to drill/cut into all my new paint (Even though it will be hidden anyway)....would it be detrimental if I have to port it into the interior?

I've tried to maximise volume by wrapping the pods around in front of the pedals etc - won't be anywhere near as large as door volume but was hoping that would help a little.

Cheers for the tips/advice - I am pretty new to all this audio stuff so any help is appreciated.
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Old March 20th 2005, 20:24
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You could always leave the front(nearest to the front of car) open
add some acoustic foam to brake down the standing waves.. thats kinda what i did . my Alpine Type X need lots of air aswell..
They sound good for now my imaging is off a bit but I think a good tuning will help alot..
the 1 thing you want to avoid is air from behind the speaker getting to the front ..this will make cansolaion problems..
aslong as you have a serface to brake down the waves you should be ok..
((You can also get standing waves in the door so adding "Egg crate" to the back wall of you speaker pod if you have room can help .. or acoustic foam)

By the way you plan on paint of cloth on the kicks?
if your doing cloth you can form it across the front and exit that way so you dont cut the car..
Spoze you could do the same with paint but you would add a ton of prep work..

peace troy
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Old March 21st 2005, 07:31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy_Audio
By the way you plan on paint of cloth on the kicks?
peace troy
Paint at the moment...depending on how I am going for time I may make a vinyl covered insert but that would mean a whole lot more fiddling around! We'll see what happens!

Cheers again for the advice.
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Old March 22nd 2005, 14:52
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If you were to port to the interior, as Troy mentioned, you have to slow the waves coming off the back of the speaker. Really, you don't want ANY waves coming in from the back of the speaker, but sometimes you have to make sacrifices. You could also do all the calculations for volume and actually port the kpanel boxes correctly for the woofer. There are a bunch of specs on the instructions that come with the speakers. Some of them are Qas, Vas, and other such non-sense. Those numbers can be used to calculate the required box volumes and port lengths and styles. Ideally, get in touch with the manufacturer and explain the situation, that you have limited space. When you've completed the kpanel box, provided the MDF wood you've used is resin coated, you can just fill up the box with water and then measure the volume in a measuring cup, Tupperware type juice jugs are great as they usually have a graduated measurement on the side. If needed you can then add the ports, whether into the luggage area, or inside the car. These little things are all pretty variable, so let us know what you decide to do. I bet the speaker manufacturer can help you out a bunch. Also, if you can find a really good stereo shop who doesn't mind lending advice, they are a good source of info too.

Regarding resin/matt ratio, you just want to use as little resin as you can to actually wet the matt, too much resin just makes it weaker and heavier. Put at least 6 layers of matt down, to make it at least 1/4" thick. I then like to spray the entire interior of the box with spray on sound deadening material, followed by polyester filler, the same stuff cheap pillows are stuffed with. You can find it at any craft store or fabric store. Try out the sound at every step, because sometimes it sounds better with less than more. Consider covering sound reflective surfaces with material as well, as the reflective waves play havoc especially in the 4K hertz frequency and higher.

Jason
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